LG TV audio will not play through reciever. (2 Viewers)

[R315r4z0r]

I've been racking my brain around this for way longer than I care to admit and it's really frustrating me. I am no expert in this field, but I'm also not completely illiterate.

First, what I'm using:
TV: LG 65UH6030-UH
Receiver: Yamaha YHT-5920UBL

So, I have a setup with various devices (bluray player, game consoles, HTPC, CD player, turntable, etc). All of these devices work great; I use them and the audio works as it should through the receiver (proper 5.1). However, whenever I try to output audio directly from the TV, it simply doesn't work. Basically, passing audio through the TV and to the receiver works, but trying to play audio directly from the TV does not.

Use cases for TV audio (cases where audio will not play through the receiver):
-Using a streaming service through an app on the smart TV.
-Playing an old game console connected to the TV via RCA cables.


IMPORTANT NOTE: the audio DOES play if I enable the TV's internal speakers. But it only plays through the TV's speakers, not the 5.1 surround. It's only when I try to pass it to the receiver does it go silent.


TV is connected to the receiver via HDMI-ARC. All ARC settings (or in LG's case "simp-link") are enabled on both the TV and receiver.
The firmware on both the TV and receiver is up to date.
For kicks, I've tried switching through literally every input available on the receiver to see if I mislabeled one but none of them work.


Any advice would be appreciated. If you need any more information about the setup, let me know.

 

[John Dirk]

Welcome!

Your TV has 2 HDMI inputs, only one of which supports ARC. If you've already ruled that out then I would probably chalk it up to the inconsistent implementation of that particular protocol. Each manufacturer was free to pretty much execute it however they chose.

 

[R315r4z0r]

I know that ARC works as it is set up right now because powering the TV on and off will automatically toggle the receiver as well. Plus, the receiver has a small LED signifying that it has an HDMI ARC connection. This LED turns off if the ports change or ARC gets disabled.

So, that not being the problem, you're saying it's likely an issue with the TV itself? Honestly, I was kind of leaning that way myself, so hearing someone else come to that conclusion is helpful.

Anyway, thank you.

 

[Malcolm R]

These are the settings at the LG web site. They also mention you need to have a high-speed HDMI cable with CEC functionality:

• A high-speed HDMIⓇ cable with CEC (Consumer Electronics Control) function is required to use SIMPLINK. Pin 13 of the high-speed HDMIⓇ cable is used for data transfer between devices.
• If you want to output sound to the external audio equipment connected through the HDMI cable, set SIMPLINK (HDMI-CEC) to On.

Playing audio through an external audio device connected to the digital optical port or the HDMI(ARC) port

Sound > Sound Out > Audio Out (Optical/HDMI ARC)

TV audio is played through an external audio device connected to the digital optical port or the HDMI(ARC) port. Enable SIMPLINK to play audio through HDMI(ARC).

If you select Off while SIMPLINK is enabled, the audio output setting is restored to the default setting in order to ensure uninterrupted audio output.

Configuring digital sound output settings

Sound > Sound Out > Audio Out (Optical/HDMI ARC) > Digital Sound Out

You can configure the Digital Sound Out settings.

These settings are available only when an Audio Out (Optical/HDMI ARC) / Internal TV Speaker + Audio Out (Optical) is selected.

 

[John Dirk]

I know that ARC works as it is set up right now because powering the TV on and off will automatically toggle the receiver as well. Plus, the receiver has a small LED signifying that it has an HDMI ARC connection.

What you are describing is HDMI CEC operation, not ARC. But if there's a specific LED on the receiver indicating a successful ARC connection then you might want to experiment with the output settings of the TV. ARC can only handle 5.1 in its lossy Dolby Digital form. If your streaming app is trying to send anything higher then this might explain the problem you are experiencing.

So, that not being the problem, you're saying it's likely an issue with the TV itself? Honestly, I was kind of leaning that way myself, so hearing someone else come to that conclusion is helpful.

To be clear, not so much the TV but possibly with the way it implements the ARC protocol. ARC is notorious for compatibility issues.

 

[JohnRice]

I tend to wish ARC had never been invented. Too much electronic voodoo. That kind of universal integration is problematic by nature.

I prefer to use the optical output instead.

 

[R315r4z0r]

What you are describing is HDMI CEC operation, not ARC. But if there's a specific LED on the receiver indicating a successful ARC connection then you might want to experiment with the output settings of the TV. ARC can only handle 5.1 in its lossy Dolby Digital form. If your streaming app is trying to send anything higher then this might explain the problem you are experiencing.

I've tried every combination of settings possible that it allows for.

I also just remembered some issues I've had with this ARC connection in the past.
About a year ago, I had a Nintendo Wii connected directly to the TV using an HDMI converter. The sound would work *sometimes.* Other times it would just be silent. But the strangest thing about this connection is that sometimes it would just suddenly disable the ARC settings and disable the CEC settings as well (essentially cutting the receiver out of the setup). Even stranger still is that this result would happen regardless of if I connected that HDMI into the TV directly or into the receiver. (I honestly chalked that up to magic, because I have absolutely no idea how that's even possible).

Later, I assembled a small PC to use for VR and streaming games/media from other places in the house. I originally connected it to an input on the TV, but this would occasionally result in the same issue that the Wii connection had in that it would simply turn off the ARC and CEC settings, even if the PC was turned off/unplugged. However, I fixed this by simply connecting the PC directly to the receiver after removing another device from the set up.

I've since disconnected the Wii console and haven't really had use for the ARC until I recently became interested in using the TV's streaming apps. I would use the PC for streaming, but the particular app I want doesn't output in 5.1 from the PC for some reason.

I think my next course of action is to either replace the HDMI cable or to just run an optical cable for audio. I was fairly certain I had been using a 2.0 HDMI cable, which, to my understanding, should have been enough for HD streaming (not 4k). If I decide to upgrade the HDMI, I'll make sure it's verified 2.1.

Regardless, it will take me a day or to get a new cable, so I will report back the results when I get the chance.

Thank you, everyone for the advise.

 

[JohnRice]

So, answer me this. The TV should have an optical audio output. Why do you need to use ARC?

 

[R315r4z0r]

So, answer me this. The TV should have an optical audio output. Why do you need to use ARC?

Put simply: Less wires.

The setup is run behind the wall. I can run an optical line but as a temporary solution, it would be a single wire running down a clean wall. And as a permanent solution, I would need to resnake it through the wall.

Like I said in my original post, I'm not an AV expert, and after some research and device testing, I concluded that an ARC connection was all I needed.

I have had this setup for 2 years now and it works for 90% of the practical uses I have for it. I only find fringe cases like what I'm asking help for on rare occasions. I just finally got fed up with it and wanted to finally get it working properly.

 

[R315r4z0r]

So I decided to go with an optical cable. I figure the physical work required to rout it is worth countless hours of frustration dealing with ARC. I tested it out and it works great.

Thank you all for your help.

 

[John Dirk]

So I decided to go with an optical cable. I figure the physical work required to rout it is worth countless outs of frustration dealing with ARC. I tested it out and it works great.

Thank you all for your help.

You made the right choice and, FWIW, we've all been there.

 

[JohnRice]

Put simply: Less wires.

The setup is run behind the wall. I can run an optical line but as a temporary solution, it would be a single wire running down a clean wall. And as a permanent solution, I would need to resnake it through the wall.

Like I said in my original post, I'm not an AV expert, and after some research and device testing, I concluded that an ARC connection was all I needed.

I have had this setup for 2 years now and it works for 90% of the practical uses I have for it. I only find fringe cases like what I'm asking help for on rare occasions. I just finally got fed up with it and wanted to finally get it working properly.

I know how I can come across sometimes, but for years I've seen people knock themselves silly trying to gt ARC to work because it's "simpler" or eliminates a cable. Often it does work, but when it doesn't, I just really try to discourage people from going to (often) outrageous lengths to use a technology that usually has no benefit and is proven to be twitchy.

I don't have cable and get my TV with OTA antennas. So, I always use the TV's internal tuner and pass the audio using an optical cable. It just works. Once you've set it up, you know it's there and you know it will do what it's supposed to do.

like John just said, you made the right choice.

 

[Edwin-S]

I'm just going to come out and say it. LG should change the name of their simplink function to shitlink. They make it sound like it should be simple to connect their TVs to an external receiver but it is anything other than that. The thing was reported to have bugs in it going back 3 years and the same bugs are still in it now. They just won't fix them.

 

[Scott Merryfield]

So I decided to go with an optical cable. I figure the physical work required to rout it is worth countless hours of frustration dealing with ARC. I tested it out and it works great.

Thank you all for your help.

Glad you found a solution. I did the same thing instead of trying to troubleshoot ARC with my Denon receiver and Vizio 4K display. I rarely use the connection anyway - - only if I am casting an app from my smartphone. All my other sources run through the receiver.

 

[Todd Erwin]

I know how I can come across sometimes, but for years I've seen people knock themselves silly trying to gt ARC to work because it's "simpler" or eliminates a cable. Often it does work, but when it doesn't, I just really try to discourage people from going to (often) outrageous lengths to use a technology that usually has no benefit and is proven to be twitchy.

I don't have cable and get my TV with OTA antennas. So, I always use the TV's internal tuner and pass the audio using an optical cable. It just works. Once you've set it up, you know it's there and you know it will do what it's supposed to do.

like John just said, you made the right choice.

Having installed many home systems professionally, I've always considered using ARC to be a last resort - such as the current receiver does not support 4K pass thru, the user ran out of HDMI inputs on the receiver, a certain app is only available on the TV's smart OS, or the user is watching OTA programming.

 

[SWarnberg]

I too have a smiliar problem with my brand new setup of:

• LG OLED GX6LA
• Yamaha RX-V6A

Using HDMI eARC with passthrough works most of the times. All streaming apps from TV works. However, some HD OTA TV channels are sometimes dead silent. Swedish SVT channels with DD always works, but commercial HD channels most of the times fail. I think they're using HE-AAC codecs, and the receiver seems to interpret it as True HD (it displays DTHD on front panel) when it's silent. When it works, it displays DD. All other commercial SD channels work, but they're in PCM of course.
Any idea or solution to this?

I wanted to use HDMI mostly because of the CEC features so that the TV will turn on and off the receiver, and also control the volume. Also, eARC outperforms optical in bandwidth and you can get uncompressed audio. Also, Atmos is "downconverted" with optical.

So when going optical, you miss the CEC possibilities, or is it possible to combine both?

 

[JohnRice]

I too have a smiliar problem with my brand new setup of:

• LG OLED GX6LA
• Yamaha RX-V6A

Using HDMI eARC with passthrough works most of the times. All streaming apps from TV works. However, some HD OTA TV channels are sometimes dead silent. Swedish SVT channels with DD always works, but commercial HD channels most of the times fail. I think they're using HE-AAC codecs, and the receiver seems to interpret it as True HD (it displays DTHD on front panel) when it's silent. When it works, it displays DD. All other commercial SD channels work, but they're in PCM of course.
Any idea or solution to this?

I wanted to use HDMI mostly because of the CEC features so that the TV will turn on and off the receiver, and also control the volume. Also, eARC outperforms optical in bandwidth and you can get uncompressed audio. Also, Atmos is "downconverted" with optical.

So when going optical, you miss the CEC possibilities, or is it possible to combine both?

Check the audio output in the TV's setup menu. Set it to PCM and see if that helps.
What is it set to now?

 

[SWarnberg]

Check the audio output in the TV's setup menu. Set it to PCM and see if that helps.
What is it set to now?

Yeah, I've already did that, and it works. But then I can as well sell the receiver since PCM is not really what you want.

I tried, however, another thing yesterday since all OAT sound was vanished. I disabled eARC, and then all channels got sound (DD and PCM resp.). I will monitor this for a few days to see if it's stable that way. In that case it seems to be a bug in LG's eARC since I have a 8K HDMI cable with ethernet.

 

[harync]

There is definitely a buggy implementation of CEC and eARC in LG OLEDs. Technically you should be able to turn on/off CEC and eARC independently, but LG didn't set it up that way with their terrible SimpleLink implementation. On my LG C9, if I set eARC to pass-through instead of Auto, sound is typically less buggy. The downside is that it sometimes requires me to select the "TV" input on my AVR, but it's a small price to pay.

 

[SWarnberg]

Yeah, I will try to disable CEC (SimpLink) since turning off eARC turned out to be another buggy solution. After long sleeps (over night), when turning on the TV, there was no sound to the AVR at all on any channel. AVR displays "Decoder off". Going in to the TV setup and switching sound output to another target and back to HDMI, or turning eARC on and off again, solved it. But this has to be done every day, which is not a viable option for my family to do. Seems the handshake is failing after long sleeps.
I have little hope that turning off CEC in combination with eARC will solve the sound problem in some OAT channels, but I will give it a try.