JVC Progressive mode settings..which one? (1 Viewer)

[JohnS]

I tried numerous searches for this, could have sworn that it was talked about before, but couldn't find the thread.

I own a JVC XVD723 and there are different Progressive modes.

FILM, AUTO, SMART, VIDEO 1, VIDEO 2

Which one to set it to for movies?

Now, I usually stay in AUTO mode, but some movies, like Kentucky Fried Movie, the Progressive mode(green light) will start to flicker. But, if I set it to FILM MODE, it stay in progressive mode and not flicker.

Also is the case with the canadian Lost & Delirious, the picture with look terrible with camera pans, when set to AUTO or SMART MODE, but when set to FILM MODE, the picture is smoother.

THen with TV shows, such as Transformers and Friends, the picture will look terrible with camera pans, when set to AUTO MODE. But, when I set it to SMART MODE, the picture is smoother.

So are these the right setting, the people generally use.

MOVIE DVD's= AUTO, but sometimes FILM

TV DVD's= SMART MODE

 

[John Royster]

sounds like this is setting the 3:2 pulldown. Some players detect 24 vs 30 frames a second pretty good. Others might have difficulty with some material.
SO what does all this mean to you? use film for film (24 fps) and try smart for video based sources or simply choose video for those sources. My guess would be a flashing progressive light means the player can't detect 24 or 30 fps.
Then again...I'm just guessing. Maybe try the manual?

 

[JohnS]

I guess my main concern is with the TV show based DVD's

Like Friends and Muppet Show, Transformers and such.

Is SMART MODE or VIDEO 1 or VIDEO 2 MODE the right way

 

[Allan Jayne]

Most TV show DVD's do not have 3-2 pulldown, where film mode produces less than good results.
Choose Video 1, Video 2, Smart, or Auto depending on what looks best to you. You can put a label on each DVD telling you which choice to make the next time you play it.
You don't absolutely need to know a little about what these modes do. For at least one brand of TV it goes like this: In Video 1 mode each video field (odd lines or even lines) is made progressive by synthesizing the intervening lines (even or odd) from the neighbors. The resulting picture is not as sharp as it could be but there is less flickering of very thin horizontal lines such as venetian blinds. In Video 2 mode each video field is combined with the next field to make a progressive frame. Stationary subject matter is sharper but often moving subjects will show fringed ghosting or trails to the left or right. (Or maybe I got Video 1 and Video 2 backwards.) Auto mode switches back and forth between Video 1 and Video 2. If not of the highest quality you may notice that if everything was still and then something starts to move, the entire picture will soften a bit which is why some viewers choose Video 1 or 2 instead. Smart mode switches between Film and Video 1 and Video 2. (Or maybe I got Auto and Smart backwards.)
The best TV sets and DVD players with 3-2 pulldown optmizing automatically select the best mode (Film, Video 1, Video 2) in a manner you would almost never disagree with, and without offering any choice on your part. The best also automatically do Video 1 for some parts and Video 2 for other parts of the same frame, all automatically, and never have the problem of the entire picture blurring when something starts to move and almost never show fringed ghosting (combing).
I don't understand the progressive light. A TV cannot switch back and forth between progressive and interlaced modes without having the picture jitter and break up. But I have heard of a film mode light, namely it is on when the TV is trying to make 3-2 pulldown sense out of the input (poor looking if there really was no 3-2 pulldown) and off for Video 1 or Video 2.
Video hints:
http://members.aol.com/ajaynejr/video.htm

 

[Peter Rohlfs]

The light goes red in "smart mode" when the DVD is not flagged as progressive. From what I understand, it can be falgged for the disc or frame by frame depending how it was mastered.

I believe Film mode says ignore the flags, I believe this disc is mastered as a film and treat it as such no matter what.

The red light indicates that the player is faking progressive as opposed to reconstructing it from the frames on the disc.

The output is always progressive.

With my Sony XBR, the built in line doubler is better than the fake one built in the player, so I use SMART mode, if the light goes red I turn off progressive altogether and let the tv do it's job with the built in doubler.

Peter