Our Go Big or Go Home Home Theater (1 Viewer)

[NBPk402]

With a 160" - 180" screen I am not sure how you can get away with not putting the speakers behind the screen? And since I already have a pair of Altec Lancing Voice of the Theater speakers it just seems like a good idea to place a third one in the center of the screen for a center channel and use a perforated screen which should work very well in a room with total light control. I can not wait to see what receiver come out with Atmos and DTS UHD version of Atmos and hopefully some higher end pre/pros will be available as well in a reasonable amount of time. And if money is no object a control system and Kalidiscope set up or something like it might be a good idea as well. What would you guys use Control4 or Crestron?

I would check out the weave type of screens... SeymourAV etc. As the perforated screens I am told will be noticeable where the holes are and will lose gain too.

 

[NBPk402]

Are you good at programming? I believe Crestron usually is pretty much all programmed by the installer where as CQC, and Cinemar are programmed by you.

 

[Dave Moritz]

Never tried it, I guess if I had the money I would have to rely on a good installer but would go with the best system that did what I needed it to do.

 

[NBPk402]

Never tried it, I guess if I had the money I would have to rely on a good installer but would go with the best system that did what I needed it to do.

You could always start out with something like Girder, or iRule. A lot of people have really nice setups with iRule.

 

[NBPk402]

Well I just ordered what hopefully will be all I need to finish off the tuning of the room with Roxul R60 (it won't be in till early November as it was a special order out of Canada). I got enough to do the whole front wall 3" deep, plus enough for the area behind the 2nd row seating 6" deep. I have enough of the R80 left to do the ceiling panels. Now the fun part is to make all the fabric panel frames for the walls, and ceiling (most will be empty with just GOM stretched on them).

 

[NBPk402]

I just put up the last of the 7 2' x 4' panels of pegboard wrapped in ProStar black velvet and....... IT LOOKS AWESOME! I still can't believe how much better it looks. I looks like the screen is just popping out of nowhere (except for the sides that still need to be masked). Going 4' deep on the ceiling with ProStar was the single biggest improvement for the image quality. I still have to get the Roxul R60 up on the wall behind the screen (3" is on order still), and then put up the black commando cloth for the whole wall behind the screen... I am hoping this takes it up to the next level (although i don't know how it could get much better). When I get the rear wall covered I will be removing the height channels, and moving the screen back another 2'. Then I will be shadow boxing in the last 2' with black velvet. There should be zero light reflection then as the ceiling will have 6' of velvet, the stage will be 2' deeper too. :T

Here are a couple of pics with my cellphone...

With flash...

Without flash...

 

[NBPk402]

What I have noticed is with the ProStar on the ceiling it also gives the illusion that the screen is centered on the wall when it is actually only 6" from the ceiling (it appears to be about 2' from the ceiling).

 

[NBPk402]

Does anyone know if the MiniDSP would be better to use than the Berringer FBD?

 

[andySu]

You could easily buy a cheap AVR top model yesteryear for $150.00 or so less. Wire the pre-inputs up from the current AVR outputs and still be able to route back to any outboard amplifiers if any are used in your system.

Next you can use the 2001: A space Audyssey Mult-eq as that is suppose to do it so, so better and you would have saved maybe a $100.00or so if you can find a good AVR.

As for Behringer FBD I have owned one and it went haywire after a few years use. The damn things get so hot! What's it running inside a night storage heater? It heated the room more effectively then my old night storage heaters. I use gas central heating now way, way better, but that FBD got so damn hot I think it was the summer heatwave of last that that overload it.

If you can find a FBD for $50.00 S/H as there not worth the retail.

 

[NBPk402]

You could easily buy a cheap AVR top model yesteryear for $150.00 or so less. Wire the pre-inputs up from the current AVR outputs and still be able to route back to any outboard amplifiers if any are used in your system.

Next you can use the 2001: A space Audyssey Mult-eq as that is suppose to do it so, so better and you would have saved maybe a $100.00or so if you can find a good AVR.

As for Behringer FBD I have owned one and it went haywire after a few years use. The damn things get so hot! What's it running inside a night storage heater? It heated the room more effectively then my old night storage heaters. I use gas central heating now way, way better, but that FBD got so damn hot I think it was the summer heatwave of last that that overload it.

If you can find a FBD for $50.00 S/H as there not worth the retail.

What do I need another AVR for? I have the Denon 4520ci, and 3 T chip amps, plus 2 Yamaha P2500s amps for my front 3 channels... The Denon is handling the heights, side surrounds, and the rear surrounds currently. I am planning on selling the Denon sometime next year and going to a Dolby Atmos AV Preamp, and getting some more T chip amps for my other channels.

I have a FBD... What I don't like is the turn on thump, and that it only will EQ to 20hz. I believe the MiniDSP will go lower, and I could use one of mine for both of the Danley subs.

 

[andySu]

What I don't like is the turn on thump, and that it only will EQ to 20hz. I believe the MiniDSP will go lower, and I could use one of mine for both of the Danley subs.

Oh, right. If made that clear before I could have answered. Well its simple proceeded.

Right now okay. Follow instructions to the letter!


Always power up processors first.

Next.

Always power up amplifiers last.

When powering down the system.

Always power down the amplifiers first.

Next.

Always power down the processors last.

Follow the above instructions and you won't hear any thumping sounds.

 

[NBPk402]

Oh, right. If made that clear before I could have answered. Well its simple proceeded.

Right now okay. Follow instructions to the letter!


Always power up processors first.

Next.

Always power up amplifiers last.

When powering down the system.

Always power down the amplifiers first.

Next.

Always power down the processors last.

Follow the above instructions and you won't hear any thumping sounds.

Will the MiniDSP be better than the FBD for subs?

 

[andySu]

Will the MiniDSP be better than the FBD for subs?

I don't know, never owned that model only FBD. But I what I do know is you have 30 days to get money back, if your dissatisfied.

 

[Dr Griffin]

Oh, right. If made that clear before I could have answered. Well its simple proceeded.

Right now okay. Follow instructions to the letter!


Always power up processors first.

Next.

Always power up amplifiers last.

When powering down the system.

Always power down the amplifiers first.

Next.

Always power down the processors last.

Follow the above instructions and you won't hear any thumping sounds.

I've always started powerup at the beginning of the chain, but was still getting noise when I turned on the mains amp. I tried muting the pre/pro, and it helped somewhat. Now I get a little snap instead of the louder fried sound. Also, I've noticed that if I switch to auto-on first for a second or two, instead of right to on, most of the time I will get a silent startup. I dunno.

 

[andySu]

I've always started powerup at the beginning of the chain, but was still getting noise when I turned on the mains amp. I tried muting the pre/pro, and it helped somewhat. Now I get a little snap instead of the louder fried sound. Also, I've noticed that if I switch to auto-on first for a second or two, instead of right to on, most of the time I will get a silent startup. I dunno.

Was it, BIG AND LOUD that scarred you?

As for this MiniDSP 2x4 word is it looks okay looks simple enough to run no difference than, FBD or DCX. I might look around for lowest price.

http://www.minidsp.com/applications/auto-eq-with-rew

User manual for MiniDSP 2x4
http://www.minidsp.com/images/documents/miniDSP%202x4%20and%20Kit%20-%20User%20Manual%20v2.1.pdf

Oh, like it so far from what I'm reading and I'm getting some ideas already.

Oh like the terminal screw block that would easy wiring up on my cinema processors.I recommend blind buy. Might go for x1 to start off with in few weeks and get another and another I see some use for my system especially the surrounds.

 

[Dr Griffin]

Was it, BIG AND LOUD that scarred you?

As for this MiniDSP 2x4 word is it looks okay looks simple enough to run no difference than, FBD or DCX. I might look around for lowest price.

http://www.minidsp.com/applications/auto-eq-with-rew

User manual for MiniDSP 2x4
http://www.minidsp.com/images/documents/miniDSP%202x4%20and%20Kit%20-%20User%20Manual%20v2.1.pdf

Oh, like it so far from what I'm reading and I'm getting some ideas already.

Doesn't scare me but it sounds like the cliche electrical sound. Sort of a buzzzt.

 

[andySu]

Doesn't scare me but it sounds like the cliche electrical sound. Sort of a buzzzt.

Need to start your own thread, Stanley and take it from there with pictures. As I'm sure ellisr63, won't want his, thread hijacked.

I recommend blind buy, ellisr63 should make an interesting set up and the units are slim line and would be easy manageable to hide behind a rack screwed up vertically I got lots of ideas already.

 

[NBPk402]

I have 3 of these....

As long as I stick with using them as 2 ways, I can use the 3rd one for my subs.


Interesting thing... Today my Yamaha P7000s died. I unplugged it and let it sit for a while and plugged it back in and it is dead... no lights, nada, nothing at all.

Good thing it is under warranty.

So since it was dead I decided to use one of my P2500s amps for the subs for now, and I found out something interesting...

When I was using the P7000s I had to turn the gain up full on one channel, and 3/4 on the other channel to get Audyssey to calibrate the subs. When I hooked up the P2500s it calibrated both of them at about 7/8 level equally! I had originally thought that the P7000s was doing that due to one sub in front of the room, and the other being behind me, but I now believe it was defective. The other issue with the P7000s was a hum... The P2500 has one but it is much lower.

I will call Yamaha in the morning to see about getting the P7000s repaired.

 

[andySu]

Maybe you had one of those electrical storms and the fuse on the plug socket or internal slow-blow-fuse inside the AVR next to the transformer has shorted out?

 

[NBPk402]

Maybe you had one of those electrical storms and the fuse on the plug socket or internal slow-blow-fuse inside the AVR next to the transformer has shorted out?

No storms... I was wiggling the cable because I couldn't hear the 2nd sub working and it shut down. I have thought maybe it was a cable issue but, I am using the same cable and wiggling it doesn't turn the amp off like the other one did.