Attention SVS CS/PC owners (pre-2002): Some Good News - A possible Upgrade Option (1 Viewer)

[Jeffrey Forner]

HOLY CRAP ON A STICK!!!
Ron, Tom, I was looking over RAF's website and I realized something. It appears that you forgot to mention an important detail about installing the new driver....

I installed the driver into my sub with the cap on, which means that I probably haven't been hearing the new driver's full potential.
Within 10 minutes after I read that, I had run out to the garage, took the sub apart again and removed the cap. I can't really put it through its paces right now, seeing as it's 3:00 in the morning and the parental units are peacefully asleep upstairs. However, once they vacate the premises at 6:20, I will most definitely be checking out a few of the heavy bass movies again.
Expect a full report on my *new* findings later today (02/14/02).

 

[RAF]

Jeff,
Don't be embarassed. I probably would have done the same thing if I didn't pick the unit up by the plastic cover after taking some pictures. Lucky for me the plastic cover came off and I realized that the beautiful chrome underneath couldn't be an accident. Otherwise I would have been in the same boat. That's why I emphasized this on my web site. (Tom actually e-mailed me when he saw the first picture I posted here -taken before I removed the cap. I had originally used it because it had less "glare" but then I realized that it might confuse some people so I posted some with the cap off.)
Glad it helped you (obviously.) There's a vent hole there and you definitely will get better results with it ported properly. And it's a good thing you live in Minnesota or you may have melted the driver (just kidding on that one, although I would imagine it couldn't be good for the driver over the long haul.)
Go ahead. Wake the parental units! Tell them gramps said it was O.K.

 

[Brian Fineberg]

ok now I have a dilema some options after some questions:
1) how much would s/h be on the driver?
2) would it be worth it for a 25-31??
3) Do I have to send the Driver first to get the refund?I would not want to be withpout my bass!!
4) I am also nervous about screwing up my factory SVS what if things start rattling or somthing??
My options are to give it a try or to save the ~100 bucks and sell my current svs and use the money together to buy a cs+!!! I wish SVS could have told me of the future upgrades when I bought mine I would have waited but oh well that is progress !!! No hard feelings tom and Ron I still love ya!! And I think it is a VERY remarkable thing for you to offer this upgrade to your customers. Just CS Brilliance!! You guys never cease to amaze.
Thanks
-B

 

[ColinM]

As with all things - wait to buy and the price may fall or you will be able to get better / more features for the same price.

I bought the Sony DVP-300 for $450 in 1997. DD only, no component. Now, for less than $150 you get DD, DTS, Component, and soon probably interlaced as well.

I don't expect Sony to give the kind of kickbacks we see from SVS. I'm grateful for SVS's flexibility.

- CM

 

[SVS-Ron]

Brian,

1.) Like Tom said above, about $15, but that's just a guess.

2.) Would it be worth it? It performs better, so maybe. Are you happy with your current driver?

3.) No. If the driver never shows you just paid $129 for the new one and get to keep two. If it DOES show up at our shop, then you get a $40 rebate. Sort of like those rebates at Best Buy you always send in ;^)

4.) If you are nervous about this then maybe you shouldn't. I was nervous about adding RAM to my first PC in 1993 (a SCREAMING Pentium 60Mhz ;^) and now I can put a PC together with my eyes closed. You gotta start the road to enlightenment somewhere. This is so easy I could teach my 11 year old son how to do it. A power screwdriver helps, as does a large phillips bit and a medium phillips bit but that's really all it takes. We're even including three new foam pad feet for the bottom of your baseplate and our new custom made black plated phillips drive leg bolts to complete the kit. Some nice instructions that include pointers about taking off the black plate shipping protector ;^)

Selling your current sub and getting a Plus is certainly an option. A Plus is still a stronger sub than even an upgraded CS/PC.

Ron

 

[John Stone]

When I was waiting for my 20-39CS to ship just before Christmas, it was delayed a few days because SVS was waiting for a shipment of drivers to come in. Tom and Ron apologized for the slight delay and told me "Trust us, the wait will be worth it. Contact us after a few weeks and we'll tell you why."
Well, I got my sub just before Christmas (and was blown away by its performance, of course). I figured the "you'll be glad you waited" statement was related to the new CS+ line, and the fact that I could return my CS within the 45 days and get a CS+. I never bothered to call and verify that. As it turns out, that assumption was completely wrong--I just looked into the sub with a flashlight, and I definitely have the new driver! I think it goes without saying that the small extra wait was worth it, just like Tom and Ron said! I just now found that out, so thanks guys!
I don't have the original driver to make an A:B comparison, but I can say that the new driver has never bottomed out, and it sounds absolutely incredible. I use the sub every day (and I push it pretty hard); it never sounds like it's straining at all.
For less than $100, I don't think anyone who decides to upgrade will be disappointed.

 

[SVS-Ron]

Greg,

Just about anything that was sent out after 17 December has the new driver. Since Feb is after Dec, you are set!

No need to remove your grill then but if you want to dust under there you simply lift straight up a little at a time on the edges.

If your sub shipped well before 17 Dec then you have our older design, which as I think is clear is still excellent. Only those folks right in that week before or after might need to question which rev. they got. For a short time we had both. Anyone in this window should e-mail us and we'll run down your serial number to determine if the upgrade is warranted or not.

Remember, sometimes companies in the industry have been known to put cheaper/poorer performing components in their subs with no notice to their customers ("We reserve the right to change design/parts without further notice...." blah blah). We periodically do the exact opposite as costs come down and designs improve. This shouldn't surprise anyone that's followed SVS for a while.

Ron

 

[Greg Br]

Ron that is great to know, I stuck the flashlight down there and noticed the new driver last night.

I can not compare the new drivers as I am a new SVS owner, I can say that I pushed this sub as hard as I could with my limited amp powere and never even came close to bottoming out, I still have yet bottomed a sub to know what it sounds like but I never did here any "clanks".

Thanks

Greg Brown

 

[JeffMuller]

I got my 20-39PC in 3/2001, and I wouldn't mind a little "upgrade". I'd just have to work on the SAF a little, though, or just sneak the $89 purchase past her somehow :b

Jeff

 

[Kevin_W]

Ron/Tom:

I purchased my dual 20-39CS / Fidek / Art351 combo in fall of 2000 so I'm certain I have the old driver. My question is this: I have a huge room - 15x25x8 and open to kitchen/foyer etc... What benefits should I expect in the new drivers while still using the 300w Fidek? More SPL isn't really as important to me as is not bottoming out. Since I have so much cubic feet to fill, bottoming has become something that I'm certainly no stranger to. Since the new drivers have more linear travel, could I expect to hear the bottoming out less? I'm not concerned if I don't get more SPL down low (or anywhere really) just in giving me some more breathing room as I increase the volume.

Thanks in advance.

Kevin

 

[Jeff Savage]

I have had to replace an SVS driver before and it is really not a big deal. The price sounds right to me gotta go sign up
Ron or Tom -
If it is not top secret classified information maybe you could post the driver replacement document somewhere? That way people could see what they are getting into.
Laters,
Jeff

 

[Andrej Dolenc]

As one of the super-early adopters (starting with a pre-production model SVS 25-31PC ), I would definitely be interested in adding a smidge more OOMPH to the sub. $90 for more thump? Certainly a cheaper route than getting a bigger sub.
Andrej

 

[Mark Zimmer]

Count me in. Although my 16PC46 had taken pretty much everything I've thrown at it, I noticed this last weekend that the DTS The Haunting was making it strain a little in spots, though it didn't bottom out. Hopefully the new upgrade will help with that, yes?

 

[Ranga]

So.. How do I order?

Ranga

 

[Bhagi Katbamna]

If it is not top secret classified information maybe you could post the driver replacement document somewhere? That way people could see what they are getting into.

Jeff, it took me about 15 minutes to unhook the sub, change the driver, and rehook it despite the help of my 2 sons. It isn't difficult at all. You peel off the small pads on the bottom, unscrew the baseplate, unscrew the old driver, and then disconnect it. Then you connect the new driver, and gently put it in and gently screw it in. Then add the baseplate and stick the pads back on and you are done.

 

[smcvick]

I have a 20-39cs that I bought last fall, and I'm quite interested in the possibility of an upgrade. Before coughing up my $129, though, I do have a few questions.

Don't expect much response change. If you put in the new driver and measure a response change...it's more likely you are standing in a different position,the sub is an inch or two from it's original position or the mic was moved a half inch.

Tom's comments indicate that the new driver's frequency response will be almost the same as the old driver's. That being the case, what differences in performance should we expect? The 20-25% increase in suspension travel that Robert mentioned should result in greater maximum output capabilities. Is that an accurate assumption? Are there any other obvious areas of improvement?
Any additional information that they can provide us regarding the differences between the two versions of the driver (and how the new version compares to the driver in the cs+) will be greatly appreciated. As a 20-39cs owner who has been considering upgrading to a cs+, I'd really like to know close to a plus this new driver would get me.

 

[RAF]

If it is not top secret classified information maybe you could post the driver replacement document somewhere? That way people could see what they are getting into.

Jeff S.,
No problem. I've just added the text of the brief instruction sheet to my HT web site, where there are also pictures that show you what's involved. Check it out for full details in the SVS upgrade section.
A direct link to the page is:
Link Removed
That should give you what you want.

 

[Juan_R]

I am totally in, I cant wait for the upgrade. I can't believe how good Tom and Ron are about these things. I have never come accross any other company that took such good care of there customers, specialy when dealing over the net. My hat goes out to the hole SVS family.

 

[SVS-Ron]

Ranga,

Where? On our site as soon as I can get it up. I was hoping for today but some software issues cropped up. It'll certainly be up before Monday. Look at our SVS News page for the link.

If I get it up sooner I'll just drop a link here too.

The kit will include new foam pads for the baseplate, the new leg bolts and some clear instructions when they are ready to ship. Just a question when the get the next major shipment of drivers. More info when we get it on est. shipping dates.

Ron

 

[Dennis Reno]

Count me in. You can never have too much bass!