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Attention SVS CS/PC owners (pre-2002): Some Good News - A possible Upgrade Option (1 Viewer)

Charles J P

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Omaha, NE
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CJ Paul
How long are we going to have to take advantage of this offer? I am in the process of convincing my fiance, and it may be after tax refund time before I can realistically do this, but I am very interested.
 

Bill Kane

Screenwriter
Joined
Feb 5, 2001
Messages
1,359
...Still waiting for an update to the SVS News section on their website. I do see $150 woofers listed in replacement parts, but no mention of the trade-in deal...
 

Bhagi Katbamna

Supporting Actor
Joined
Jun 1, 2000
Messages
870
Rest assured that what Robert, Jeff and Bhagi are hearing are very much measurable, and objectively demonstrateable improvements (imagine that! a new industry concept in home audio upgrades).
Like I posted above, the new driver has about 5-6dB more measureable headroom. This is how I determined that. With the old driver, I calibrated using Video Essentials so that the sub was at the same level as the other channels(75dB). I always do it this way because I don't like boomy bass with music or movies. Then I played some deep bass DVDs. I used Titan AE and TPM at levels which caused the old driver to bottom out. Usually this was about 10dB to 12dB below Reference level(I have an Onkyo 989 which is THX cert so there is a volume at which the display reads "Ref"). Then I replaced the driver and calibrated to 75dB again. Then I put on the same DVDs and I was able to increase the volume to about 4dB to 5dB below Ref. level without bottoming it out. I tried Toy Story II at the beginning but this was not a good test as my eq flashes the Clipping light at the logo so any distortion could be the result of the eq clipping rather than the driver. It was strange that the eq doesn't clip at all on TPM or Titan AE. Anyways, to me this improvement was significant and was analagous to switching from a powerful V8 to a powerful V12 car. Both are good but the V12 has effortless power and cruises at high speed.
 

Steve Winkler

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jan 13, 2000
Messages
179
Add another 20-39PC owner to the upgrade list. I bought mine in October of 2001. The only downside is UPS has a hell of a time finding my house and it's a long way to Western Canada. ;)
Thanks SVS for your continued incredible customer support and service.
Steve
 

Tom Vodhanel

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Sep 4, 1998
Messages
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>>>Well, I got my sub just before Christmas (and was blown away by its performance, of course). I figured the "you'll be glad you waited" statement was related to the new CS+ line, and the fact that I could return my CS within the 45 days and get a CS+. I never bothered to call and verify that. As it turns out, that assumption was completely wrong--I just looked into the sub with a flashlight, and I definitely have the new driver! I think it goes without saying that the small extra wait was worth it, just like Tom and Ron said! I just now found that out, so thanks guys!
 

Tom Vodhanel

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Sep 4, 1998
Messages
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We haven't determined the *window* yet...but I would guess at least 30 days. So for example it might run from 3-1-02 to 4-1-02.

TV
 

David Scott

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
May 13, 2001
Messages
74
I'm on the fence here whether to upgrade or not...this usually means a few rave reviews and I'm in. Hmmmm, this means I can turn the volume up a notch or two more on bass heavy movies? I guess it won't take much for me then to break down and upgrade :) .
 

Tom Vodhanel

Senior HTF Member
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Sep 4, 1998
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>>>Tom's comments indicate that the new driver's frequency response will be almost the same as the old driver's. That being the case, what differences in performance should we expect? The 20-25% increase in suspension travel that Robert mentioned should result in greater maximum output capabilities. Is that an accurate assumption? Are there any other obvious areas of improvement?>Any additional information that they can provide us regarding the differences between the two versions of the driver (and how the new version compares to the driver in the cs+) will be greatly appreciated. As a 20-39cs owner who has been considering upgrading to a cs+, I'd really like to know close to a plus this new driver would get me.
 

Greg Br

Second Unit
Joined
Dec 13, 2001
Messages
437
Tom, Ron or anyone

I have the new drivers in my dual subs that this thread is about,unfortunatley I did not have the old one to compare to. My question is related to performance and reference. I calibrated using Avia to a reference level calibration. I do not have the sub set hot at all. I watched Das Boot last night at reference level, or so I believe I did if I am understanding this game. I did not hear any botteming out, the "Storm Surfing" scene was so intense it was hard to stay focused on the screne. If I am listening at reference level on my calibration, would I expect this subwoofer to be botteming out?. If I am not at reference levels should I set the sub up hotter than it is as it seems to have more headroom?
 

RichardH

Supporting Actor
Joined
Nov 28, 2000
Messages
742
If you're properly calibrated and listening at reference level, then you're there :D
Whether the sub is going to bottom out will depend on the amount of air it's trying to push. So, if you're in a smaller room, reference levels may be achievable with one sub, whereas a larger room may need 2-4 subs.
 

Greg Br

Second Unit
Joined
Dec 13, 2001
Messages
437
So to clear up my confusion, even though I am set to referece volumes, the sub is not bottoming out, I may not be at reference level due to many other factors? How do you know then?
I do have a dual setup.:D to compensate for my large room. I have to be honest, the bass I am getting sure seems stronger than it does at the theateres, maybe not as deep but I have never been rattled like tonight.
 

Jeffrey Forner

Screenwriter
Joined
Jun 19, 1999
Messages
1,117
Greg;
If the subs don't make any kind of "flapping" noise, chances are, they aren't bottoming out. When a sub bottoms out, it sounds almost like a piece of paper getting hit by spinning fan blades.
For the record, I did manage to bottom out the 16-46PC in my small room of about 1300 sq ft when I first received it. In order to do that, I had to set the sub about 5dBs too hot and listen to the opening logo of Toy Story 2 at calibration volumes. Once I matched the sub to be at the same level as my speakers, I never heard it bottom out again. I sincerely doubt I will hear it do so with the new driver.
BTW, the new driver sounds about the same as before. Perhaps the bass is a little cleaner than it was before, but the removal of the cap hasn't made a huge difference, but it's nice to know that it's not there any more. :)
 

Kevin P

Screenwriter
Joined
Jan 18, 1999
Messages
1,439
Mmmmm... a cheap upgrade! I'm definitely in! :D I have a "very old" 20-39CS (bought 9/2000), so I'd love to improve it, even if it doesn't really need improvement (it sounds awesome in my room as it is!) :)
My friend who has a 20-39CS in a larger room has some problems with bottoming, so I'll let him know too.
KJP
 
J

John Morris

Ron and TV: Any new word on when the port blockers will be available, and how much they will cost, for us Ultra owners?

Thanks!
 

Tom Vodhanel

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Sep 4, 1998
Messages
2,241
Greg,

When you calibrate the system...you are calibrating it to the surrounding environment.

It sounds like you are at reference levels,

John,

We'll be setting something up for CS_U owners very soon,we appreciate the patience shown.

TV
 

EricN

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
May 30, 2000
Messages
72
Location
NW Wisconsin
Real Name
Eric
So Tom & Ron, with my 16-46PC ser #27, I am guessing I qualify..:)It has been a great year with it so far, lets get on with round #2! :D
 

RAF

Senior HTF Member
Deceased Member
Joined
Jul 3, 1997
Messages
7,061
Jeffrey,
Glad to hear that you're back up and running after cleaning your ears - I mean, removing the plastic endcap on the new driver. Like I told you, I probably would have done the same thing if I hadn't accidentally removed the cap when picking up the driver by the cap. So I was a bit curious how the "capped" driver would sound.
I know that Tom was all concerned when he saw the original pictures I posted (cap on) and he asked me to remove the cap "immediately" so as not to damage the driver. I'm assuming that the damage would have been long term, since the design of the magnet allows cooling to take place. I also have a gut feeling that the sound is better too, but I'm not able to quantify this without two identical units - one capped and one bare. But, as you noted, there was a slightly cleaner sound. In any event, now you have a story to tell your grandkids!
:laugh:
 

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