Advice on DIY Sub Components

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Anthony AC, Mar 2, 2003.

  1. Anthony AC

    Anthony AC Extra

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    G'day people,

    I am wanting to undertake a DIY sub project and have sourced the following main components. I would appreciate your thoughts on the amp and driver I have chosen. Please note that I am coming from a commercial 100W - 8" sub (so I would expect this to be a big step up), and have serious WAF to account for. This driver cost is roughly half the price for a Peerless XLS/12 or Adire Shiva here in Australia. Some modelling in WINISD shows, I think, pretty good expectations, but I am far from an expert.

    Your thoughts on if this a worthwhile purchase (particularly for a non audiophile). Thanks.
    (I also posted this in Speakers & Subwoofers, then thought this forum might be more applicable, hope this is ok)
     
  2. Bryan Michael

    Bryan Michael Supporting Actor

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    that sub looks like a car sub to me. it might be worth to get a better amp/sub
     
  3. Anthony AC

    Anthony AC Extra

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    Thanks Bryan. I am curious as to why you say it "looks like a car sub"?

    The T/S specs seem to model fairly well nevertheless.

    Sensitivity - SPL - 1Watt @ 1 metre: 88.17
    Voice Coil Resistance (Re): 3.5 Ohms
    Resonant Frequency (Fs): 25.58Hz
    Mechanical Q Factor (Qms): 3.843
    Electrical Q Factor (Qes): 0.458
    Total Q Factor (Qts): 0.409
    Equivalent Volume (Vas): 93.42 Lt
    Cone Area: 0.049 Sq m
    Xmax: 10.5mm

    And I appreciate the fact that you can buy better, but unfortunately for me that comes at a price.
     
  4. Ashley Carr

    Ashley Carr Auditioning

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    Being an employee of Jaycar, I'd say you'd be better off getting the 12" 4 Ohm Carbon Fibre woofer. It's cheaper, is more efficient (93dB), and IMO sounds better. Depends on what sort of cabinet you're going to use though.

    IIRC Whatmough used to make a sub called the Typhoon using the Carbon fibre driver and the amp you mentioned, in a vented cabinet. The review I read was very favourable. But looking at the website, that sub has been replaced by a newer model.

    Edit: Just out of curiosity, who is the Oz distributor for the Peerless sub?
     
  5. Isaac C

    Isaac C Stunt Coordinator

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    The C12 (CS2246) woofer might be more efficient, but it is severely limited by its Xmax. The 12XL (CS2272) can play ~6dB louder thanks to its higher Xmax. (An excursion/power-limited graph should verify this). A net enclosure volume of 0.1m^3 tuned to 22Hz should be fine for either subwoofer.

    Save a bit more and purchase a higher rated amp. This way your upgrade options in the near future are cheaper as you'd only need to replace the XL12 (or C12) Jaycar sub with something better such as a Tempest.

     
  6. Anthony AC

    Anthony AC Extra

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    Thanks for the responses guys. Isaac, so essentially you're indicating that it should work reasonably well (for the price).

    I have modelled in WINISD with a 105L enclosure tuned to 23.5Hz, with 2 x 82mm vents (485mm long) giving -3db @ 23.0Hz. The port air velocity is less than 17m/s, but the excursion may be more than Xmax. How do you limit Xmax without compromising too much in other areas?

    Ashley for Peerless drivers you could also try Peninsula Home Theatre or City South Electronics.

    Thanks Again, Anthony
     

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