Question regarding Monster's Connected Equipment Warranty (1 Viewer)

[Chris_Cur]

First, a pre-emptive statement to Chu Gai: With no disrespect intended, I'm well aware of your feelings regarding Monster products, as well as your feelings that people would be better served by buying separate insurance. I'd really like to stick to the question presented here rather than having the thread derailed back into those points.

This question involves the following two products:
1. Monster's HTS1000 ( http://www.monstercable.com/power/pr...r.asp?pin=1901 ): This is a typical Monster surge protector, and it comes with a $250,000 connected equipment guarantee.
2. Monster's SW 200 ( http://www.monstercable.com/power/pr...r.asp?pin=1218 ): This device is designed to plug-in a remotely located subwoofer. It comes with a $50,000 connected equipment guarantee.

The HTS1000's warranty information says the connected equipment warranty is invalid if "if any wire (phone, coax, or AC), or audio or video interconnect leading into the equipment comes from a component that is not properly protected by the Monster PowerCenter." I'm assuming the SW 200 contains a similar clause.

Here's my question:

Is there even any way to use the SW 200 without voiding the warranty for one or both systems? Assume you have the following basic setup:
1 TV, plugged into the HTS1000
1 Receiver, plugged into HTS1000
5 Speakers, plugged directly into the receiver.
All coaxial/telephone/etc. cables plugged into the HTS1000

Now, if you wanted to add a powered sub to the mix, I know you can plug it into the HTS1000 and still be covered. That's fine if you have your sub setup next to the rest of your equipment, or if you want to run a long extension cord. For the rest of us, it's a problem to figure out how to connect a sub to the rest of our system.

I'm assuming the SW 200 was made with precisely that problem in mind.* Let's say I hook the SW 200 up to a different outlet, and then I hook the sub up to the SW 200. Now both ends of my system are protected by Monster products, but that leaves open the question of what sort of coverage that brings. If lightning hits my house and ruins my TV, what stops Monster from saying the HTS1000's warranty is invalid because some of my equipment was plugged into the SW 200, and the SW 200's warranty is invalid because some of my stuff was plugged into the HTS1000. And even if one of the warranties stays in effect, which one would it be? The $50,000, the $250,000, or both?



*: I say this because Monster's plug for the SW 200 reads as follows: "Your subwoofer is probably placed too far away from your main system to plug into a surge plug strip. Why use another plug strip just for a subwoofer when you can just plug into a nearby wall outlet, right? Well, consider this. If a power surge strikes and your subwoofer is unprotected, it may cause some serious damage not only to the sub, but your entire home theater. The surge can also travel unimpeded from the subwoofer to your other home theater components, via their interconnect cables."

and

"With SW200, you can place your subwoofer away from your main system and always have the best possible performance and surge protection."

 

[Jeremy Little]

Call them and ask, the website says this about claims or claim related questions:

 

[Chris_Cur]

I've sent them an e-mail, as I'd at least like to get something in writing on the issue. I'm still waiting on a response from them. I'll post it when they reply.

I was just curious whether anybody had run into the issue before, or (even better) if anybody had filed a claim with a similar setup before. Even once I get a reply, that won't settle the issue... at most companies, one customer service drone is likely to say one thing, with others answering differently.

 

[Chu Gai]

Really good questions and careful reading might lead one to wonder what the definition is of the term properly protected? For example, you raise the scenario whereby one could run an extension cord to the HT1000. That may, since these warranties are open to interpretation, constitute under some scenarios, an improper protection.
While you could call them, you'll be answered by an 'answer droid' whose reply is likely not binding in large part because it's a 'he said, she said' scenario. I'd think you'd need a reply by either email or letter.
I'm not sure Chris, but I think Panamax's position is that you could use multiple surge protectors akin to what you're thinking about however they've got to be Panamax. I'd imagine Monster's position would be similar.

Get a whole house surge protector if you've got your own place.

 

[Chris_Cur]

For those who care, this is the e-mail response I got back today:

Which warranty I'd be covered under is purely academic (since either $50,000 or $250,000 would both be more than enough to totally replace all my equipment).

 

[Ted Lee]

what i wanna know is, if something blows up, how do you prove it was connected in the first place?

that being said, i just recently bought the 1100 power-bar. but only cuz i get an employee discount. it certainly looks cool.

 

[Mike Boniferro]

They would have to check the equipment plus the surge bar.

I know of a few people who have made claims with this company, and they have been very accomodating, even on there basic $30 power strips. These guys make a TON of money doing what they are doing, and the last thing they need are accusations flying around all over the place saying they don't stand by their CEG or the lifetime warranties on their cable products.

Ted, what has your impression been on the line conditioner so far?

 

[Ted Lee]

mike -

i like the thing well enough. tbh, i'm not a big believer in this stuff, but i got it so cheap i just couldn't pass it up.

also, i didn't really do a before/after test, so i can't fairly comment on whether it really improved picture or sound. but, at the very least, i definitely feel that my gear is well protected.

plus it just looks really cool.

 

[Mike Boniferro]

lol, all about the looks huh

I didn't do a before/after on my new Toshiba 51", but it definately helped the picture on my old Sony 32". I thought it did, doubted myself, then did another A/B and the black levels were definately better and there was less dot crawl... I hate dot crawl

The other thing it got rid of was the NASTY hum that I was getting through my speakers when my Fidek sub amp was on. Before to fix that I had to use a 75 ohm -> 300 ohm converter then back to 75 ohm on the TV cable coming into the house. Now everything is run through that and there is no problem... can't really explain that one but hey

 

[Ted Lee]

did i mention how cool it looks....? of course, it's hidden behind my tv ... but at least *i* know it's there. :rolleyes