HT Project in Alpharetta, GA (1 Viewer)

[StefanG23]

Hi there, new member. Spent the last week or two reading thru the forums and learned a lot from the postings. I've attached the sketch of my design for my home theatre. This room is in the 3rd floor of a spec house being built. I need to complete the audio/data wiring this week, so any constructive feedback is much appreciated.

Some verbiage to go with the sketch:

* Room Dimensions: 20' x 11.5'
* Ceiling Height: 8'
* Speaker Config: 7.2 (probably initially a 7.1) (note: anywhere you see a picture of a "speaker" that denotes where I'll have audio pre-wired.
* Media cabinet in the back of the room (re-thinking that, likely to move to front)
* Planning 2 screens: Flat screen on left wall and then pull down (or electric) project screen from ceiling above left wall right in front of flat screen. (note: having conduit run from back of room (right wall) where media cabinet is to front (left) wall behind placement of flat screen for HDMI cable.

Questions:

1) This left wall where I show my flat screen / project screen is the right wall of the master bedroom on the floor below. Would I have less sound penetrating my master bedroom with the setup that I have now or would it be less if I flipped the room around and put screens (and front/center speakers) on right wall? In the former, the speakers are next to the master bedroom wall, but sound is travelling away from wall. In the latter, main speakers are 20' away from master bedroom wall, but sound is travelling toward the wall. Thoughts?

2) Any suggestions / thoughts on the set-up / wiring?

Thanks in advance, Stefan.

 

[schan1269]

Dynil. Google it. That, or one the dozens of brands of "meant for this very purpose" sheet rock and blue/green glue.Why limit yourself to 7.1?DTS NEO X is 11 speakers. Most AVR are .1 regardless of the fact they say .2.Which variant are you buying?Pretend .2, or actual .2?Also suggest a black-backed acoustically transparent screen. Although, you need a hefty screen budget for a good one*. Talking equal in cost to your projector, TV and AVR..combined.*Good one...meaning woven. Nobody takes perf seriously.

 

[StefanG23]

Thanks for the response/feedback.

Because this is a spec house, other than pre-wiring, there is really nothing I can do in terms of room/wall prep. Essentially, I come in after the room is built and add the home theater. Technically, I could rip the dry wall off of the wall and re-do it right, which is an option. The builder won't do "custom" stuff, because I technically I could pull out of the sale of the house and then they would be left with a house that doesn't match their specs.

I was thinking of building a screen wall 1.5 - 2' in front of the left wall, so that I could have tower fronts and a non in-wall center. But, question still remain is it better to have the fronts/center that close to that shared wall with sound directed away from that wall or better to have fronts/center on opposite wall (20' away) with sound directed toward the shared wall?

Regarding the 7.1 vs 9 (or 11), I just don't think that room is big enough to justify more than 7, especially given that I'm not going to have a very sound proof theatre room. Until the kids grow up (1 & 4 years old), that theatre isn't going to be playing movies very loud.

I won't be making audio equipment purchase decision for a while. So, I don't know whether it'll be a true .2 (or a .1 that I split into 2). I may find I don't need more than 1 sub anyway.

What advantages does a "black-backed acoustically transparent screen" provide? or in other words, why do I want/need that? I was planning to have fronts on either side of screen (so no sound travelling thru projector screen). Does it need to be "black-backed" so that it doesn't show the flat screen tv behind it?

Thanks again for any responses/feedback, Stefan.

 

[schan1269]

AT screen would allow the center to be behind the screen. Your towers could also, allowing an even bigger screen(It you wanted. I sit 9 feet from a 120. But I show lots of 2.35/2.40, which brings it in under 108). I've even been tempted to change to CIH(constant image height), but I don't use the projector for regular TV(only HBO, Cinemax, football...). If you did CIH, you probably have a 130 2.40. That would almost require AT.The black backing is for light bleed. Which all AT have, woven are better in that regard. I have a Screen Research ClearPix, which is the only AT screen that can get away without...yet I still have backing, SR-CP is the same screen used at Cannes, Telluride, Sundance...and yes. It ain't cheap.You, yourself, can add a layer of acoustic rock...on top of the drywall they put in. That is why there is blue/green glue. Quiet Rock 500 is "technically" made to cover existing. It can even be added to ceilings. I always try to get SoundBreak XP installed(pure nepotism, I have 4 family members, two that drive trucks That work for NG). It is(was? Have others caught up?) 100% recycled...so it is as "green" as drywall gets.

 

[Bobofbone]

I sympathize with you about a contractor who just builds spec homes, and won't deviate. I've built 3 homes-one contractor was like that, to some extent. I liked working much more with the other two. They also did a much better job.

A couple suggestions. You mentioned some concern about sound. Think of the room like a container, and sound like water in a container. The more leaks, the more sound that gets out. While this may be an oversimplification, it's useful to keep in mind. Some of your sound transmission will be through open areas, and your are next to a stairway. You might want to consider framing the wall next to the stairway along the whole length of your theater space, with a door going in. That change could also help with light control.

Putting insulation in the walls, floor and ceiling may also help, somewhat. It isn't highly effective, but it's inexpensive. And the best time to do so is during construction. One other option is to have the contractor leave the dry wall off, and do it (or have it done) yourself. One thing overlooked about the sound attenuating walls like double drywall and green glue is that they improve the acoustics in the room. These walls absorb and attenuate low frequency sound, and to some degree reflect high frequency sound. Reflections of low frequency are audible in a small room, as an echo. Higher frequency isn't, as a distinct echo. We live in a world where sound reflects-and some reflection can sound better. Concerning the extra layer of drywall, while you will get the best performance from a suspended wall, it that isn't an option, you can always see how things sound with a single layer, and add another layer later if you want to .

I like the idea of 2 subwoofers. That's what I did, in a room of similar size (22'x14'x9.5') . 2 (or more) subwoofers tends to even out the low frequency sound in the room. I've tried switching one of mine off and sitting in different spots. There's a distinct difference in coverage with one on that disappears with both on. Putting your equipment rack in back is also a good idea. you won't have a bunch of LED lights next to what you are viewing, and the space works better. If you are using something with infra red remotes, consider running CAT5 cable from someplace in the front to the are of the media cabinet for an infra red repeater. I used a Niles Repeater that I bought from Crutchfield to trigger a projector mounted in the next room and for my media space that is closed off behind a smoked glass door. It works very well. It's also easier to run the cable before you drywall, The control unit needs 110V, which you will have in the equipment area. The sensor is powered by current sent down part of the CAT5. Speaking of cable, make sure your contractor is using cable that is approved for running in walls. Most codes require using CL2 cable for runs inside a wall, because it is made not to transmit fires along the cable should there be a fire in the house. Use a heavy enough gauge cable for the equipment you plan to use-there is a good discussion about this on the web site for Blue Jeans Cable.

You have 2 windows. While everyone talks about light control and front projection systems, I think this is less of an issue than it used to be. The projectors now put out more light than what was available in the past. Nonetheless, it's easier to control light in a space that doesn't have windows. If they aren't there yet, leaving them out may be a consideration.

By the way, counting on not playing things loud because you have 2 kids may not work out the way you think. I had 5. 2 of them told me that they were trying to figure out how to modify my amp so the volume control would go to 11. I'm not sure they got the idea from "Spinal Tap".

 

[StefanG23]

Thank you schan1269 and Bobofbone for the guidance/suggestions.

I like the idea of adding the quiet rock on top of the existing dry wall. I may also explore whether they'll leave the dry wall off altogether, but i'm suspecting they won't go for that per their process/guidelines.

And I definitely will extend the wall to close out that walkway to the stairs (or put a door there).

I have conduit running from back of room to front of room, so thanks for the tip about the infrared repeater. I'll leave the rack in the back of the room as its been sketched (as I was re-considering) because I didn't know how I was going to control the equipment without raising my arm up and pointing remote to back of room .

And yeah, I plan on turning it up when the kids can enjoy a movie with me. Right now my oldest tells me its too loud in a movie theatre, so need the kids to get on board. For the next few years, its mainly going to be movie / sports watching after the kids go to sleep, so volume will have to be kept barely audible.