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Help with new home theater setup (1 Viewer)

Tjc50

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ty
Hello everyone i have lurked long enough I need some advice. Currently Mh ht setup is in my main floor living area and is being moved to the basement. Now it's all concrete/tile floor with 3 walls being drywall at about 18x25 . My theater will be in the back 1/2 of this room. I currently have a denon 1612 I believe I know it has the automatic calibration antenna deal. Speakers are all polk cs1, m60s front , can't remember book shelves for my surrounds maybe m30,40,50? My sub is a polk psw505. I would like to upgrade my center cs1 and move my m60s to my surrounds. Problem is they are discontinued and do not know what to replace with and have all matching. My other issue is my single sub. I know it's not regarded as highest of quality but my dilemma is , should I buy a splitter and a second psw505. Not really in the budget for a 2 new subs at 500$+ each. But from what I have gathered is that I need 2 subs. I am useinf this for 90/10 movies/music. I would really like to get that good felt punch in your chest from my bass with my movies. I know being on concrete will aid in that as right now it is more of a boom and shake bass being on main floor. Sorry for my grammar here I'm on my phone! Any advice is greatly appreciated
 

Tjc50

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I was expecting bashing on my psw505. Have read a lot of negative about it. For what I paid on Black Friday a couple years ago it definetly puts it out for movies! You think a second one would give me that crisp punch with them being on a concrete floor? I have read a lot of about basements being touchy with subs but properly done it can create an awesome punchy more theater like bass that I'm after. I thought I made a mistake with the polk sub but if another will do it the. I will probably order and stick with my current setup for now
 

schan1269

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That is why programs like REW and Antimode exist.Is anybody going to take a 505 over the F12?No. Is the F12 the end-all in subs? Of course not.My best sub is a mutt. Started out life as a JBL DSP12(i think...it is a 12, psb, bsp...whatever) legendary in the amp craptitude.$5 non-working garage sale find. Bypassed the internal amp with a Sony TA N110. Total cost? $75.Then I decided to remove that driver, put in an Infinity 12".Then I wanted more power. Found a 500w Krell mono block that had been dropped (case cracked, missing a back foot and the binding posts were broke off).Soldered wire directly to the binding post nubs. Then removed the plate amp...replaced with a piece of wood with a speaker terminal.All told, I think I've spent $700.The bulk being the Krell(and removing cost of Sony...as it is used elsewhere now).
 

Jason Charlton

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Tjc50 said:
You think a second one would give me that crisp punch with them being on a concrete floor?
Adding another of the same subwoofer to a room won't make the system play any deeper/lower. If you calibrate it properly, it won't really be any louder, either (though you'll have added "headroom" for really loud movie scenes).

Adding a second identical subwoofer is usually done to help even out the room response - if your seating positions are varied such that some locations happen to fall into nulls or locations where the perceived SPL drops off, adding another subwoofer in a complimentary location can minimize these nulls and provide a more even response throughout the room.

In cases where someone is using smaller satellite speakers that don't have the lower frequency extension of a bookshelf or tower speakers, the addition of a second (usually different) subwoofer to serve as a mid bass module can help bridge the gap between the satellites and a more capable subwoofer.

Have you tried changing the position of your current subwoofer to see if you can find a better spot for it (google "sub crawl")?
 

Tjc50

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I sub crawled for my upstairs got that task down . I Have not moved everything to the basement yet. I was just browsing several sites and decided join one and ask me re knowledgable folk than myself. Seemed a lot of people say adding a sub when in a basement will give the extra punch. I understand it wont be louder . I'm just after that pressurizing where when an explosion happens you can feel it in your chest. As is my sub upstairs is boomy at times and muddy but that's because current positioning was dictated by the boss :(. The room it's in is a cathedral ceiling A-frame 25 ft peaks open floor plan to kitchen and dining room. The system is great compared to what I had. Am I asking to much out of the polk sub? I just don't want to put it all downstairs and then have it fall on its face delivering zero bass when needed. I'm not a fan of the base droning the walls and lugging out(best I can describe) I have been to a friend of mines rich dad who had a real theater in his monster house. That system had bass that you felt in your chest as soon as a low kicked in. Guess the only way to tell is do the work and move it. Trial and error. Any other advice is greatly appreciated !! Keep it comin
 

ArmSC

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If you want to move the M60's back
Tjc50 said:
Speakers are all polk cs1, m60s front , can't remember book shelves for my surrounds maybe m30,40,50? My sub is a polk psw505. I would like to upgrade my center cs1 and move my m60s to my surrounds. Problem is they are discontinued and do not know what to replace with and have all matching.
You want to match the front three speakers from the same series. Since if you're wanting to move the m60's to the rear and getting rid of the CS1 you're really open to anything. If you just wanted to upgrade the front l/r I would look at some m70s with the current CS1 staying put. What is your budget for the speaker replacement? What are the current speakers not doing for you? What are your expectations for the upgrade?
 

andySu

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There is another way without crawling around on all fores. Use a microphone connected to the RTA with a long cable. Place the sub in the seating area position and play wideband pink noise with LCRS all switched off muted disconnected.

Walk around the room with microphone until you see a good level even frequency response. Mark the position and place the sub there. Next check the next seat repeat the same and you may need a second third and fourth sub placed in different areas.
 

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