As with any amp, you have to make sure the total load is not more than the amp is rated for. For instance, you’d have to be careful running two 4-ohm voice coils from a mono amp. Running speaker cables from both terminals is a parallel connection, which would get you a 2-ohm load. It’s electrically the same as paralleling the voice coils with jumpers, then driving them with a single run from the amp.
Edit: I forgot to mention that your JBL's have dual binding posts in case the user prefers to bi-wire or passively bi-amp the speakers. If the binding posts are fitted with plugs, and that's what's preventing you from using bananas, they can usually be removed with a small jeweler's screwdriver.
I am still jacking with my truck system & the sub/enclosures I built.
Thanks for the info, I think it might just be plugs in the end under the caps.
Now if I only knew what "bi-wire or passively bi-amp the speakers" meant I would be in great shape.
For the record, I have asked several of the other designers I work with & none of them have been able to help me with my questions concerning the amp loads of speaker systems.....we just dont deal with them on offshore rigs very often...
Don't worry too much about it, Cam. Without getting into longwinded explanations, bi-wire refers to running a set of speaker cables to each set of binding posts, after removing the jumper that connects them of course, terminating at the amp's output. Passive bi-amping refers to using a separate amp connected to each set of binding posts while using the speakers' own crossover. This, compared to active bi-amping, which uses an active outboard crossover. Don't concern yourself with this; it's not a big deal relative to your issue.
Actually, the outputs are paralleled internally, not bridged. Not to sound argumentative, but why can't a sub be bi-wired with a mono amp? I can easily bridge my amp and bi-wire my sub with a dedicated set of cables to each 18" driver. I prefer to run each driver on its own channel, but that's beside the point.
Cam, Actually the binding posts on the speakers should allow banana plugs. The binding posts usually have a small "cover" built into them which can be popped off or even penetrated by a drill to get them out.
I remember a few years back ... it was either a receiver or an amp that I was reading about and the covers were in place on those binding posts. Apparently, the U.K. (I believe) doesn't want people to plug in their equipment to binding posts because the electrical plugs are similar. The plugs on the binding posts are put in place to appease those requesting this safety-type feature.