Guy Kuo
Supporting Actor
- Joined
- Mar 6, 1999
- Messages
- 581
Grayscale Rescue for an Overly Enthusiastic Tweaker
As you've discovered, adjusting gray scale is not an easy matter. That is why most people leave it to professional ISF calibrators who can tune it in very tightly. At the very least you need an optical comparator or D65 light source against which to compare the color of gray while making such adjustments.
This is only intended to get you closer to normal. Doing this sort of stuff is best left to a technician. You can get yourself into a ton of trouble doing this. Since you've already gotten yourself there, I'll try to help. I'm not going to be specific to model so the actual name of the service menu items may not match your set.
I hope you haven't adjusted any of the variable resistor type "screen" controls. These are set at the factory to yield precise grid voltages for the CRT's. They should be left alone and adjusted only with instrumentation and the service manual. If you have messed these up, then at the very least, display a black field pattern and look directly into the CRT's to make sure the raster (area scanned by the electron beam) is just extinguished and no diagonal retrace lines are visible. Unfortunately, if you have already significantly altered the bias (cutoff) settings for the tubes, the proper setting for screen may not look right. You might have lightened the blacks of a tube using bias causing you to incorrectly adjust screen too dark. Setting screen controls incorrectly can accelerate CRT wear or burn out so I REALLY hope you have not touched those controls.
The controls for setting gray scale are the gain (drive) and bias (cutoff) controls for each gun. The gain and bias controls interact with each other, much as the black level (brightness) and white level (picture) controls. The bias (cutoff) control sets the appearance of black for a tube. The gain control sets the intensity of light output for a tube. One sets gray scale by displaying a 90 or 100 IRE window and adjusting gain. Then display a 20 IRE window and adjust bias. The process is repeated back and forth between the high and low IRE windows until both 20 and 90 IRE windows have the same, correct color of gray. Professional calibrators use a colorimeter or a optical comparator to tell when the color of gray is correct. It is near impossible to eyeball the color of gray without a reference white to compare against because human eyes continuously white balance and change our perception of gray.
Barely acceptable, readily available references for the color of white are a computer monitor set to 6500K (not very accurate as these tend to be all over the place in actual color), a high CRI 6500K fluorescent tube such as a Lumichrome 6500K (good accuracy), or a daylight fluorescent bulb (tend to be green tinted). If you've really messed things up, then I guess any of these would be better than nothing for a reference. Shine the bulb on a neutral gray or white card like the Kodak gray card to vary the brightness of the light. Compare the color carefully against what the display is producing.
With a colorimeter, accuracy is far better and the ISF calibrator can measure the color for points along the entire gray scale from dark to light. Most displays don't track the entire scale exactly right and an experience calibrator knows which compromises to take to make overall grayscale acceptable.
One piece of advice I would give is to always leave one of the guns (green) alone while making adjustments. If you alter all three guns, you'll soon be in a deeper quagmire. You only need to vary two of the guns since it is the RATIO of light between the guns that yields the color. At the very least, don't go raising the gains much above their factory levels.
One could go commando, take off the screen and measure the light output from each projection tube using the solar cell technique to get better precision than by eye, but that is probably more surgery than most users can safely endeavor. I'd just eyeball the color of gray of the 20 and 90 IRE windows and adjust bias and gain until both match the color of the reference light. Varying the distance between the lamp and card lets you change the brightness of your reference.
I hope this helps. The big lesson here is that one must not get carried away making adjustments in the service menu unless one fully understands their implications. Some people have even misunderstood how things work so far that they try to adjust red tube gain and bias (gray scale controls) in an attempt to fix a totally unrelated red push problem in their color decoder! The best policy is to leave service menu items to the pros or wait until one learns considerably more about how a display functions.
As you've discovered, adjusting gray scale is not an easy matter. That is why most people leave it to professional ISF calibrators who can tune it in very tightly. At the very least you need an optical comparator or D65 light source against which to compare the color of gray while making such adjustments.
This is only intended to get you closer to normal. Doing this sort of stuff is best left to a technician. You can get yourself into a ton of trouble doing this. Since you've already gotten yourself there, I'll try to help. I'm not going to be specific to model so the actual name of the service menu items may not match your set.
I hope you haven't adjusted any of the variable resistor type "screen" controls. These are set at the factory to yield precise grid voltages for the CRT's. They should be left alone and adjusted only with instrumentation and the service manual. If you have messed these up, then at the very least, display a black field pattern and look directly into the CRT's to make sure the raster (area scanned by the electron beam) is just extinguished and no diagonal retrace lines are visible. Unfortunately, if you have already significantly altered the bias (cutoff) settings for the tubes, the proper setting for screen may not look right. You might have lightened the blacks of a tube using bias causing you to incorrectly adjust screen too dark. Setting screen controls incorrectly can accelerate CRT wear or burn out so I REALLY hope you have not touched those controls.
The controls for setting gray scale are the gain (drive) and bias (cutoff) controls for each gun. The gain and bias controls interact with each other, much as the black level (brightness) and white level (picture) controls. The bias (cutoff) control sets the appearance of black for a tube. The gain control sets the intensity of light output for a tube. One sets gray scale by displaying a 90 or 100 IRE window and adjusting gain. Then display a 20 IRE window and adjust bias. The process is repeated back and forth between the high and low IRE windows until both 20 and 90 IRE windows have the same, correct color of gray. Professional calibrators use a colorimeter or a optical comparator to tell when the color of gray is correct. It is near impossible to eyeball the color of gray without a reference white to compare against because human eyes continuously white balance and change our perception of gray.
Barely acceptable, readily available references for the color of white are a computer monitor set to 6500K (not very accurate as these tend to be all over the place in actual color), a high CRI 6500K fluorescent tube such as a Lumichrome 6500K (good accuracy), or a daylight fluorescent bulb (tend to be green tinted). If you've really messed things up, then I guess any of these would be better than nothing for a reference. Shine the bulb on a neutral gray or white card like the Kodak gray card to vary the brightness of the light. Compare the color carefully against what the display is producing.
With a colorimeter, accuracy is far better and the ISF calibrator can measure the color for points along the entire gray scale from dark to light. Most displays don't track the entire scale exactly right and an experience calibrator knows which compromises to take to make overall grayscale acceptable.
One piece of advice I would give is to always leave one of the guns (green) alone while making adjustments. If you alter all three guns, you'll soon be in a deeper quagmire. You only need to vary two of the guns since it is the RATIO of light between the guns that yields the color. At the very least, don't go raising the gains much above their factory levels.
One could go commando, take off the screen and measure the light output from each projection tube using the solar cell technique to get better precision than by eye, but that is probably more surgery than most users can safely endeavor. I'd just eyeball the color of gray of the 20 and 90 IRE windows and adjust bias and gain until both match the color of the reference light. Varying the distance between the lamp and card lets you change the brightness of your reference.
I hope this helps. The big lesson here is that one must not get carried away making adjustments in the service menu unless one fully understands their implications. Some people have even misunderstood how things work so far that they try to adjust red tube gain and bias (gray scale controls) in an attempt to fix a totally unrelated red push problem in their color decoder! The best policy is to leave service menu items to the pros or wait until one learns considerably more about how a display functions.