Power Conditioners-What's the general concensus here? (1 Viewer)

[Brian_J]

I am getting a new RPTV and started to look at power conditioners (Monster 2000, 2500 price range). What's the general concensus, useless tweak or necessary component?
Brian
------------------
Zed's Dead Baby...

 

[Barry_B_B]

Just installed mine, HTS2500. Did not eliminate all video problems (ground loop) but did make a big difference in clarity. Glad I did it, $169 eBay vs. $299 Circuit City.

 

[Brian OK]

I would say that the general consensus here, at this forum, is all over the map. Like...... pricey (i.e anything that costs more than RS or Home Depot 12AWG) speaker wire, or interconnects, digital cables, power cords, isolation platforms, dampening materials, green pens, Auric DVD/CD treatment, cones, bi-wiring, vibrapods, acoustic treatment, AC outlets ...... there is no one answer for any particular system or budget. A true YMMV answer.
This disclaimer said, I use two power conditioners in my setup --- a VansEvers Model #83, and a Monster HTS 2000. The VE unit I use for digital components and RPTV (with positive results, BTW). The Monster 2000 I use for my CATV connection and my RPTV backlight.
But, I have also plugged my RPTV into the Monster and plugged the Monster into the VE digital outlet (also with positive results).
Currently, I am in a new dedicated basement HT room with 2 new dedicated circuits (using P&S 5262A outlets) so I am going to experiment with different connections.
If you have a shared circuit with your HT gear, then definately consider the bang-for-the-buck Monster 2000 for your power cleaning needs. If you have "offending devices" (like a dimmer, fridge, PC, fluorescent light, etc..) on your HT circuit then it is a must.
Good Luck,
BOK

 

[Don Black]

It's my understanding that a power conditioner would be needed only on the display end (e.g., RPTV or Projector) and not on the "other" ends (e.g., DVD player, Receiver, Sub, etc.).
Is this incorrect? Do receivers and DVD players also benefit from a power conditioner?
On a more general note, how does a power conditioner differ from a surge protector or a UPS? Thanks.

 

[Elbert Lee]

Don - In most cases, Power Conditioners tend to have more of an effect on AUDIO and less, if noticable effect on VIDEO. Widescreen Review did a comparison of some of the available power conditioners (TICE, MONSTER, AUDIO POWER WEDGES, and PS AUDIO Power Plants) and in most cases, video was hardley affected. Only the PS Audio Power Plants had some effect (they are actually generators that recreate power - weigh a ton and generates tremendous heat). UPCs are similar in that it's internal battery supplies its own source of "cleaner" power. But, there's definitely not enough juice for higher current receivers/amps
Things to watch out for:
1) If you have a high current amp/receiver, some power conditioners may "constrict" the juice, which results in a shrinking of your soundstage. My opinion, dedicated ac line to your high current amp will have more of a profound effect on your sound than power conditioner by allowing more juice through and a PHYSICAL separation from your corrupting digital sources.
2) Good conditioners will feature isolation between ac power to digital sources and analog components. Monster's HTS 3500 and 5000 are designed this way, with most filters on the digital ac outlets and less on the analog, but more current as well.
Again, rather than spend hundreds on power conditioners, the cheapest and most effect way is to run several dedicated ac lines to your HT equipment. I have a single HTS5000 plugged into one ac outlet with my sources and pre-amp (denon avr 5800) and a separate ac outlet for my ATI amp.
The last outlet is for my display. My cost for running dedicated lines was less than $80 for the high grade cabling. The rest was just labor on my part.
Big believers in AC current will concur that power conditioners are "patches" for people who are unable to run dedicated ac lines to their equipment. (Apartments, old buildings etc.) So, if you are able to do it yourself or find an electrician who can do it fairly cheap (should be around $250-$400 for the average house), you'll get the best results.
ELbert

 

[Don Black]

Thanks guys!