LG OLED65E6P vs LG OLED65C6P (1 Viewer)

[Colin Jacobson]

So I finally got the C65 all hooked up and running. Initial impressions based on a very limited sample (ie, 2 movies):

1) The curve appears to be a total non-factor. I can barely detect it from my "viewing position", and I see no indications of screen distortions. Perhaps If I wasn't watching from a head-on POV I'd see something, but from my viewing spot, the curve is nearly unnoticeable and it's not a distraction at all.

2) I set the picture to "ISF Professional - Dark Room" and made the minor modifications in the link posted earlier. Overall it looks good but I have to admit the image seems more "aggressive" than what I was used to on my Panny plasma - the image just seems a little "jacked up".

This means brighter colors and tighter sharpness, both of which sound good on paper but just feel a little unnatural here. Grain also seems more evident. Maybe the pic on my Panny was too muted/soft and this one's more accurate - dunno.

I do know this has been my only real concern with the new set, as I worry it'll never look as "film-like" as my plasma. This is all watching standard Blu-ray, BTW - I haven't gotten a UHD 4K BD player yet.

3) The passive 3D blows away the active on my Panny. I enjoyed the 3D on that set but the LG's 3D feels much, much more organic. I only watched one 3D movie - "Men in Black 3" - but was delighted at how good the 3D looked. There was none of the ghosting or other interference I occasionally got on the Panny.

Anyway, that's what I have right now. I'm gonna get the set professionally calibrated in 2-4 weeks - I still need to get that 4K UHD BD player, and I'd also like to add speakers for Atmos before the calibrator comes.

Any thoughts about/reactions to my impressions - especially my concerns about the image seeming "jacked up"?

 

[CraigF]

I'm gonna get the set professionally calibrated in 2-4 weeks

Is that the time-frame recommended for this gen of OLED? Two weeks seems a bit short, even if running some "aging" routine 24/7. I don't know though, may be about right, ~300 hours, I haven't paid much attention to that aspect since "mine" is well-aged.

It'll be fine when calibrated.

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Is that the time-frame recommended for this gen of OLED? Two weeks seems a bit short, even if running some "aging" routine 24/7. I don't know though, may be about right, ~300 hours, I haven't paid much attention to that aspect since "mine" is well-aged.

It'll be fine when calibrated.

Dunno about recommended time frame. I mentioned a desire to get the set "broken in" to the calibrator and he responded "an OLED only needs about 50 hours of break in time compared to other technologies"...

 

[revgen]

Colin, I recommend setting the OLED Light to 30 when watching 2-D SDR material. That's what John Reformato set it to when he calibrated my TV. OLED Light at 85 is too bright for me in a dark room.

 

[Edwin-S]

Blacks on these OLED sets are at least an order of magnitude better than my old Panny plasma. Colors are brighter too. The contrast and color differences could be contributing to the perception of the picture being "jacked".

Have you disabled or toned down the motion blur controls. That could also be contributing to an "unnatural" looking picture?

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Colin, I recommend setting the OLED Light to 30 when watching 2-D SDR material. That's what John Reformato set it to when he calibrated my TV. OLED Light at 85 is too bright for me in a dark room.

Thanks! I'll give that a try!

I admit I don't actually know what the "OLED Light" setting does!

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Blacks on these OLED sets are at least an order of magnitude better than my old Panny plasma. Colors are brighter too. The contrast and color differences could be contributing to the perception of the picture being "jacked".

Could be. The C65 may be a superior reproduction of the source but I'm so used to plasma after 8 years and 2 different sets that anything else looks "weird" to me...

Have you disabled or toned down the motion blur controls. That could also be contributing to an "unnatural" looking picture?

Yes, all that nonsense is disabled, and sharpness is low. The "ISF Professional" setting on the TV actually does all that on its own - I only made minor tweaks to its default...

 

[CraigF]

Dunno about recommended time frame. I mentioned a desire to get the set "broken in" to the calibrator and he responded "an OLED only needs about 50 hours of break in time compared to other technologies"...

Well, I'm pretty sure that the only guy I've spoken to who does OLEDs prefers 500 hours. But that was a while ago, and he was probably being quite conservative...that's why he's hired. Looks bad for him and the company (not mine, etc.) if a month later people complain or he has to come back to do it again.

Any emissive technology will change quite a lot during its first hours, but yes, OLED should probably change less than a phosphor-based one.

I went from a "beyond-calibrated" Pio plasma to the E6. I don't know when this E6 was calibrated, nor know exactly when they became available, but the calibration can't be that old. It looks very decent to me, no complaints re the piccy at all. It's not like I would be able to see by eye any small discrepancies (haven't put any instruments on it, since I'm not the owner I can't really adjust it, so not much point). So I'm saying that after cal, your new OLED display will be perfectly "acceptable" to you. I am pretty picky, not professional film-worker picky, but picky.

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Well, I'm pretty sure that the only guy I've spoken to who does OLEDs prefers 500 hours. But that was a while ago, and he was probably being quite conservative...that's why he's hired. Looks bad for him and the company (not mine, etc.) if a month later people complain or he has to come back to do it again.

Any emissive technology will change quite a lot during its first hours, but yes, OLED should probably change less than a phosphor-based one.

I went from a "beyond-calibrated" Pio plasma to the E6. I don't know when this E6 was calibrated, nor know exactly when they became available, but the calibration can't be that old. It looks very decent to me, no complaints re the piccy at all. It's not like I would be able to see by eye any small discrepancies (haven't put any instruments on it, since I'm not the owner I can't really adjust it, so not much point). So I'm saying that after cal, your new OLED display will be perfectly "acceptable" to you. I am pretty picky, not professional film-worker picky, but picky.

It's funny: my 'critical picture viewing faculties" essentially turn off when I'm at somebody else's house, but when I'm in my home theater, I become much pickier.

As I've implied, I know what my TVs look like, and I'm very accustomed to the Panny plasmas, so going to something different is a jolt.

I'm pretty sure it took me a few weeks to fully adjust to my first plasma in 2008, though some of that stemmed from size increase. I went from a 36" WEGA 4X3 set to a 50" 16X9 plasma - everything was so much bigger so flaws in the source became magnified.

Here, it's really just the change in display technology that's a factor. The 65" OLED replaced a 60" plasma, so it's barely bigger - not even noticeable, honestly...

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Colin, I recommend setting the OLED Light to 30 when watching 2-D SDR material. That's what John Reformato set it to when he calibrated my TV. OLED Light at 85 is too bright for me in a dark room.

BTW, what OLED Light level makes sense for 3D in the dark room setting?

 

[revgen]

BTW, what OLED Light level makes sense for 3D in the dark room setting?

The default for ISF Dark in 3-D mode is OLED Light 100. That's what I use. Which makes sense since the 3-D glasses naturally block light coming from your TV. A higher OLED light setting helps to compensate for the light loss from the 3-D glasses.

 

[revgen]

I admit I don't actually know what the "OLED Light" setting does!

It's kind of like using a higher wattage light bulb. It increases brightness without affecting contrast too much. So it's useful for changing according to your room environment. A higher setting can be useful for daytime viewing or when using 3-D glasses, and a lower setting at night if you watch in a dark room.

 

[Colin Jacobson]

The default for ISF Dark in 3-D mode is OLED Light 100. That's what I use. Which makes sense since the 3-D glasses naturally block light coming from your TV. A higher OLED light setting helps to compensate for the light loss from the 3-D glasses.

Great - thanks! Obviously I'm still working through all of this!

I think I had the OLED Light set at 80 for the one 3D movie I watched and it looked great - I had no feeling of "too dark" imagery.

I also watched a 2D BD with the OLED Light set at 30 and thought it did some less "jacked up" than what I saw at 80, so I suspect that helped!

 

[CraigF]

It's funny: my 'critical picture viewing faculties" essentially turn off when I'm at somebody else's house, but when I'm in my home theater, I become much pickier.

As I've implied, I know what my TVs look like, and I'm very accustomed to the Panny plasmas, so going to something different is a jolt.

I'm pretty sure it took me a few weeks to fully adjust to my first plasma in 2008, though some of that stemmed from size increase. I went from a 36" WEGA 4X3 set to a 50" 16X9 plasma - everything was so much bigger so flaws in the source became magnified.

Here, it's really just the change in display technology that's a factor. The 65" OLED replaced a 60" plasma, so it's barely bigger - not even noticeable, honestly...

Yeah, it seems that in the >50" sizes, you really need to go at least 10" larger to make a noticeable diff. 50"->60" and 55"->65" is much more noticeable than 60"->70" though (to me...).

I never say anything about any audio or video "deficiencies" I perceive in another system, on the outside... On the inside, I notice, but it gets mostly forgotten pretty quickly if the content is to my taste. As I always say, after 2-3 months of your first calibrated display, you will become a "calibration snob", you can't help it. Same for audio, but that's much more complicated and variable since there's no exact standard for all audio to calibrate to, but there are some things that are just "wrong".

Edit: what I was inferring in the first paragraph is that I think manufacturers are "correct" in making 75" the next prominent size, rather than 70". I can see why they did so, it's the perception of size increase rather than simply the increase of viewing area that 75" gives compared to the old standard of "large" (60") that many people already have. Got to have them *feel* like they're getting larger, not just make it mathematically so.

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Updating my little thread to say I've "adjusted" to the LG set and like it very much! I'm gonna give it a few more weeks and get it calibrated - can't wait to see how it fares after that!

Oh, and I ordered a UHD BD player tonight, so I look forward to 4K BDs on the new set.

As soon as I get me some Atmos speakers, I'll have completely transformed my HT compared to 2016!

 

[Colin Jacobson]

Colin, I recommend setting the OLED Light to 30 when watching 2-D SDR material. That's what John Reformato set it to when he calibrated my TV. OLED Light at 85 is too bright for me in a dark room.

Where do you recommend I set the OLED Light for HDR settings?

 

[revgen]

Where do you recommend I set the OLED Light for HDR settings?

I keep it at the default settings. The only setting I sometimes change is the brightness setting since some Amazon 4k streaming shows have the brightness set either too high or too low.