H/K AVR 520 replacement (1 Viewer)

[Yuli]

Well, i am running out of choices:
I love the 520, but it keeps shutting down. I am quite sure it is an electrical problem (not a particular problem with a reciever). I think the 520 is just to sensitive to electrical changes (even when running on a surge protector). If i turn on the oven the receiver will shut down. If i turn on the dish washer the receiver will turn off, etc. It is just irritating...
So i have a few options:
-Either check and make need repairs on the whole house electrical system
-Learn to live with it
-Exchange the receiver for something in the same range
So my question is: What are some other receivers in the same quality as well as price range as the H/K AVR 520?
Denon 3802, etc? As well i might have the ability to move to the Pioneer Elite series, if so are their receivers any good and what are some good ones in the 520 price range ( i wouldn't mind spending some extra money)
I am sad...i really love the 520....:frowning:

 

[Jason_Me]

I dont think a new receiver is going to solve your problem. It sounds like a problem with the power supply in your house.

 

[Yuli]

I've only had problems with the receiver turning off. I've never had any electrical problems with any equipment that i have. True the receiver maybe the sign of a general electrical house problem, but if i can get a receiver that doesn't shut down under the same conditions, i might not need to invest more money into the house right at this moment.

 

[Gabriel_Lam]

Have you considered an inexpensive UPS?

 

[James Stierman]

My recommendation would be the onkyo 797. I'm not really a big fan of the denon 3802. How many speakers are you going to be running. The onkyo 797 powers 6.1 but have 7.1 processing if you want to add an amp later to upgrade to 7.1. If you know you are going to run 7.1 the onkyo 898 powers 7.1 and adds a few extra features.

James

 

[Paul Clarke]

Yuli,

Think about what Gabriel suggested. It may be the only way to keep the sound you love. You would have to take a hit on the sale or trade anyway so a reasonable investment in a UPS might be called for.

If you have to go with another receiver you're going to want to stay on the 'warm' side so Marantz 6200, Denon 3802 are great choices. I didn't include the 7200 because of some earlier production problems...most 02's should be fine however.

 

[Gabriel_Lam]

I'm currently powering my H/K AVR8000 with an APC SmartUPS1000XL, which outputs a pure sine wave, 1000va and 670 watts. Driving all 5 speakers at -10 volume (LOUD LOUD LOUD), it only reaches 1 bar out of 5 on the peak wattage handling capacity scale on the front of the UPS.
I plan to replace it with the SmartUPS1400 I have lying around (pure sine wave, 1400va, 950 watts), and will return the SmartUPS1000XL back to its computer duties. Actually, I'll probably just use it to power my LCD monitor, since I have a Compaq T2000 (pure sine wave, 2000va, 1350 watts) powering my computer.
If you look around on auctions, you can find great deals on these units, especially if you find them with a worn out battery. Batteries are VERY inexpensive to replace. Replacing the batteries on the SmartUPS1400 only costed $52 shipped, and that's with 2 batteries. Single battery units cost about $20 to replace, sometimes less.
If that's too much, here's something you may want to consider:
Right now, there's a Conext 500va UPS at Staples (SKU # 455378 and #438607) that's on sale for $49.98, though it's running out in many areas. Conext is actually a rebranded APC. There's a $30 mail in rebate on it that brings the price down to $19.98. Oh yeah, and here's a printable $10 off $40+ coupon for you:
$10 off $40+ Printable Staples Coupon
So your total is $9.98, not including tax.

 

[Kenny Booth]

If turning on your stove or dishwasher makes your amp shut down then you need to fix this electrical problem before you burn the house down. All three should(?) be on different circuits so you must have a main panel problem.

 

[Steve K.H.]

It sounds like the initial high current draw of a major appliance is spiking at a higher rate than the electrical panel's main breaker. The oven is on a different circuit to begin with (220 V) so it isn't a shared circuit problem (or it better not be, cuz that means you have a serious problem that should have been addressed Yesterday)
Selling the AVR 520 or any amp/receiver ain't the issue here.
Hire an electrician. If only for peace of mind. If your circuit for the 520 is fully independant, and no other problems exist I can think of two options:
-A UPS (is there an echo in here?)
-Boosting your panel's main amperage (e.g. from 60 to 100, or 100 to 200)...
-Other items that may be affecting this... furnace/air conditioning/vacuum / toaster or toaster oven
Eliminating the result will not remedy the cause.

 

[Ted Kim]

I would like to suggest getting an isolation transformer and/or power conditioner.
For example, the power conditoners from Oneac, I believe have an isolation transformer, and help isolate the components from the rest of the AC. At the very least, you could replace a surge protector but get much better in terms of noise performance. Look on ebay, they sell for a very reasonable price, say $30.
http://www.oneac.com

 

[Yuli]

Some great suggestions guys! Thanks a bunch!

Gonna update you on the progress. I am already going to have an electrician come over and check the place out...

 

[Bill Kane]

g'luck Yuli.

while there are recommendations about throwing this-and-that aftermarket device to isolate or whatever, I think at the very least you need some way (dedicated circuit?) to get the HT OFF any circuit that also power household appliances. Just my thought -- dont know how yer house conditions are set up.

bill

 

[Ted Kim]

While I agree having a dedicated circuit is beneficial, even a dedicated circuit can have induced noise from the other circuits.
Here's an excerpt from the http://www.oneac.com/911177-.html
from a testimonial section.
"Dubrey learned that even an **isolated** circuit is not always enough to ensure clean power. "I think power conditioning is essential, otherwise you have nothing but trouble." Now, if the terminals begin flashing error messages, Dubrey questions the computer, not the power."
Note the problematic circuit in question employed an UPS as well, which didn't correct the problem until the power conditioner with isolation transformer was used.