It can take as many as four of a given driver in dipole to match the deep bass output of just a single sealed example. The very cancellations that give dipole its sound (best I've heard) make it tough to get loud and deep due to the ease with which cancellations occur at long, deep wavelengths.
Another question for you in that case.If one were to take two single driver subs,one at 0 phase on the dial and the second at 180 degree's.Stack them one on top of the other.Would you then have a dipole effect? And if so,would the cancellation effect be the same as having them mounted in the same enclosure?
BTW,in case I didnt mention it,thanks for your time.
I wonder what you would call my Martin Logan Depth sub, an unusual arrangement of speakers to say the least!!
Depth employs a novel BalancedForce configuration, in which three identical drivers are spaced precisely 120 degrees apart on the cabinet. Their reaction force vectors exactly balance at the center point for near-total cancellation, reducing spurious cabinet radiation by as much as 25 dB (a power factor of more than 300:1).
Aye,I've heard from more then one source that the ML subs are a great match for the Maggies. I was happy with my IB until I picked up this M&K and got it back from refurb.Its a very good mix with my Maggies and also gives me that window rattleing during movies. Now I find myself with an extra driver,and have decided to try a DIY sub.I'm trying to understand SUB theory in relationship to dipoles.My "old" brain is having a hard time with it
All kinds of stuff to digest on the Linkwitz site, but the main thing to remember is that you want a big baffle and don't try to get below 40Hz unless you have lots and lots of drivers. A single driver isn't going to do much, but might give you an idea. Some drivers are more suited than others, also.
This gets more interesting by the minute.Yesterday I returned to the place I had purchased the sub from.I told them I had taken the sub in for a full refurb and showed them the dead driver.
They are going to send the driver out for a rebuild at no charge.This will give me 2 "discover deep bass" drivers for my DIY project.
I have called M&K to get specs on the driver Jack.So far,the only thing I'm sure of ,they are dual voice coil driver ,8 ohm.I left a message asking for the specs.Hopefully they will return my call with the info.
I also made a stop during my travels today.I stopped in burbank at a place called speaker world.They are known for having all the parts one needs to DIY speakers,be they full range,subs,etc.
I figured they may have some suggestions for the sub ,and I was willing to spend some money there on an amp and maybe parts for a box.
After less then 1 minute explaining that I had an M&K driver to start a DIY project.I was told"sorry,we have nothing that will work and we only sell parts for our own stuff.I started to ask about the standard box sizes I've read about on some sites and was quickly interupted and told"nope ,sorry,we have nothing that will work,bye".
The gentlemans demeaner was so unprofessional and rude,I made a promise never to recommend them and insure my friends never visit them. Its no wonder the store was empty.Speaker World will never get 1 penny from me or anyone I know. (sorry for the rant.I've just never been treated to rudely).
That is so weird. I was under the impression that Speaker World was a ''mom and pop" store, but we have one in my city of Fort Wayne, IN. What is even more weird is they have two employees, father and son, and they to are very rude and quite snobbish. Does the Speaker World there have a bunch of new old stock Sansui and other such things because mine does. I suppose it is possible there is more than one ''mom and pop'' store called Speaker World (not very original), with rude staff, and possibly weird new old stock Sansui and Sherwood stuff that is so cruelly over priced that you have no clue as to how they stay in business. I mean, this world really isn't to big so it's possible. (I too apologize for the rant).
That sucks. He may have tuned you out at the mention of "standard box sizes", but that's no reason to be rude. You'd definitely need the parameters of the driver to get an idea of how it might work in a box. The vast majority of commercial subs use heavy, specific electronic equalization to achieve a desired frequency response, which is why drivers or amps so sourced are a kind of long-shot in a DIY project...neither is intended to work without the other. With some basic specs, though, we can get an idea of what is possible.
Just out of curiosity, can you order super fast woofers with magnetic sheilding for any model? I would think you could considering the sheilding doesn't change the sound. I would like to get the sub a little closer to the front line, but my CRT won't allow the sub within 3 foot of it.