Car subs in my house (1 Viewer)

[Robert_J]

You pay Bill $15 and he sends you the instructions. An intermediate woodworker should be able to build one of these without any problems. The thread I linked to covers about every mistake you can make as well as many helpful tips that aren't in the instructions.

The Dayton RSS390HO-4 15 is a very nice driver but I don't know if it is capable of being horn loaded. Since the DVC driver has a 16mm xmax and this driver has a 12mm xmax, the DVC has the potential to play louder. Both have the same sensitivity.

 

[bigdog8]

which is going to bump harder? it would be much easier for me to build a vented enclosure if that helps.

 

[bigdog8]

anyone?

 

[Robert_J]

I haven't responded because I already answered the previous question.

 

[bigdog8]

ok, so what about 2 15" dvc's in a vented enclosure?

 

[bigdog8]

also, I have no idea about how to tune a port. do you know a website to model subwoofers in enclosures?

 

[Robert_J]

WinISD Pro Alpha is a stand alone program that is widely used but my favorite is Unibox. But Unibox requires Microsoft Excel is it is really a spreadsheet with macros. There are a few web sites but they aren't as accurate or as detailed as these two programs.

Port tuning is impacted by enclosure size, port area and port length. Here is the formula for this - http://www.diysubwoofers.org/misc/portcal.htm. The two simulators above have the ability to change port tuning easily. If you want to quickly test it, there is a port calculator at www.psp-inc.com (they sell ports).

If you want 15's, then I would suggest dual enclosures. A single enclosure for dual 15's will be enormous. To keep your budget down, I'd also go sealed. Dual 15's with a pro amp will get you to dangerous SPL levels easily. If you go ported, you will need a subsonic filter like I mentioned earlier. Plus with 80% music, you really don't need the deep bass response that ported will give you. Remember this isn't tuning a sub to 40hz like in car audio. For home theater we are tuning our ported subs to 20hz and lower to really feel the bass in the movies.

 

[bigdog8]

I was thinking of making the enclosure into a plexi glass covered coffee table (obviously making it spill proof). Sorry i am pretty unknowledgeable when it comes to this stuff, but thanks for bearing with me. Am i going to get as much shake out of a sealed enclosure? Thanks a bunch for your help!

 

[Robert_J]

Originally Posted by bigdog8
Am i going to get as much shake out of a sealed enclosure?

I don't know your expectations. "shake" isn't a measurable goal. I run dual 15's in sealed enclosures and can turn it up loud enough that my wife goes into a hissy fit. I can see her mouth moving but I can't hear what she is saying.

If dual 15's aren't enough, then add two more. The Behringer amps are capable of running four Dayton drivers and pushing them to their excursion limits.

 

[bigdog8]

lets put it this way, i want to feel my music. would a sealed or vented enclosure be best?

 

[Robert_J]

Vented enclosures will play deeper but that doesn't help you since your system is primarily used for music. In the upper bass range where you want the chest thumping feeling, they are essentially the same. Build a pair of sealed enclosures and try them out. If that doesn't satisfy you then add a Feedback Destroyer and boost the 50 to 60hz range about 6 db for that bloated bass sound that is so popular with the car audio crowd.