AUTO mode on DLS (1 Viewer)

[Jim Williams]

The AUTO feature of my DLS does not seem to work. I was tweaking the level and phase settings when I decided to change it from ON to AUTO. When I did that I no longer had any bass. I increased the SW gain from my receiver and also turned the sub level up and down on the DLS but it still would not kick in when set to AUTO. Is it possible that the cheap cable that came with my Sony SA-WM20 that I am using is the culprit?

 

[Geoff L]

There maybe a problem with the batch of DLS subs that just went out. A number of people are reporting the same thing.

You might want to check the other threads and also (give the cable a try), but doubt it's the problem from what was posted yesterday.

I would get with PE on the Auto On problem if it's a big deal to you. More than likely they will send out new amps to those with the problem (maybe even a amp recall) being that so many are experiencing the problem..

Dose it work fine "aside from this"?????

Other NEW DLS-10 owners will want to know this!!!!

Regards
Geoff

 

[Jose G]

That sucks! Such a great little sub, too. Try this: set it to the off position, then the on, then while music is playing that you are sure is sending it bass, click it to the the auto - is it still playing? If not- That really stinks! If so, stop the music- wait 8-10 minutes- start the music again and see if it responds from the auto off position. It might- it's worth a try. My DLS once did not respond in auto on, but I thought it was due to low volume or not enough bass signal on the recording. I did the above mentioned and it never had a problem since. Hope it works out for you. Let us know though as Geoff is right- many would want to know about this- and PE needs to know about it!

 

[Jim Williams]

I called PE today and right away they gave me an RMA# to ship back the amp. I am reluctant to do this because it will mean that I will have to do without my sub for about a week. I may just live with it. It is a minor inconvenience that I can live with. I can plug it into the switched outlet on my receiver and that will be just as good.

It does sound awesome.

 

[Jason Wilcox]

jim...you should really send it in...

i know the switched outlet on my reciever is only meant to be used for 100w...

the DLS power consumption is 300w according to the amp...

heck...even if your receiver's switched outlet is meant to be used with over 300w....i'd still recommend sending the sub back

 

[Colin Walmsley]

Is it bad to leave it in the "on" position for extended periods of time? how about all the time?

 

[NathanL]

I just received my sub yesterday and was having the same problem...Anyone know how long it will take for them to fix it/send back a new one? I have been waiting forever to get this thing and I don't wanna send it back :frowning:

 

[NathanL]

I tried what Jose G said and It didn't help my auto-off feature work.

From what I know the sub seems to work perfectly fine except the auto-off.

One thing I did find tho is if I put the music very loud it will kick it on sometimes but turn off right away... :frowning:

Also....do you cover shipping costs or do they for you to get it fixed/replaced.

 

[tommy_esq]

I hope I didn't jump the gun by ordering this sub this morning (just shipped tonite according to PE). Sounds like most of you that ordered from their latest shipment are all having the same problem (auto off)?

I was thinking of holding out for a $300-$400 sub, but I couldn't pass up this $99 sub that is so highly regarded by many forum members. I've been using a Sony HTIB sub with my JBL NSP1's for about 8 months and just couldn't wait any longer. For $99 how could you go wrong?

I have bought many items from PE in the past and have never had a problem, but I've never had to deal with their customer service either.

As I'm in MI, it's possible I could get this thing tommorrow or Friday at the latest. I'll let you know if mine has the auto-off or other problems...(crossing fingers).

 

[Jose G]

It seems that some folks who have just received their DLS subs in the last few days are happy with it and not experiencing the auto on/offproblem that others are. It's a shame that the problem exists on some of these units at all though, and I can see why not wanting to ship it back, but I believe PE will take care of it a.s.a.p. and the shipping might be covered by them- don't hold me to that though, but I'm pretty sure that's what I've read here. As far as leaving the sub on all the time, I've heard of others doing this and not having any issues with it. Sorry my tip didn't work, Nathan. Tommy- I have my fingers crossed for you. Let us know what happens.

 

[Geoff L]

Tommy

I order allot from PE and you will have your sub by Friday I am positive, short of a Blizzard!

Being that there seems to be so many defective Auto On units in this last shippment, they will more than likely pay for shipping.
May even ship you your new amp to you and then have you ship the defective back in the same box. They have done this with bigger amps I have bought before (not a DLS sub). I am also pretty damn sure they will pre-test the new amps going back out to those sending in their defective units, ~{to be sure they are functioning properly}~!

Wish all of you with DLS problems the best.

Leaving the sub powered on all the time is ok, they draw next to nothing as far as current at an idel. You could also turn it ON and OFF as needed, pain in the butt I know, but the internal componets are not jucied 24-7 this way.

DO NOT use your receiver as a auto on feature by pluging the sub into it. Even if it's plug watt rating is high enough!

Regards
Geoff

 

[KC Alewine]

"Also....do you cover shipping costs or do they for you to get it fixed/replaced."

My DLS 10 arrived Monday DOA. When I called PE customer service, they gave me a RMA number and said they would reimburse me for UPS ground shipping. They said they would send a replacement out when the defective one arrived.

Very nice folks to deal with. Don't hesitate to call them if you're having a problem with the DLS 10 sub.

KC

 

[Brian Bunge]

I have a 2500W amp in my system that stays on all the time, so there's no problem leaving the DLS on all the time either.

 

[Shane_Lentini]

Unfortunately I am afflicted with the AUTO ON issue as well. Besides that, this little thing almost made me mess my pants watching The Matrix. And to boot, it sounds amazing with music too. Still fussing with placement and whether or not I "really" hear a difference when I flip the phase switch.

 

[DavidLC]

My DLS came today. Love the little guy. For such a small investment, it really does a fine HT job. I also found it to be much more musical than I expected.
Auto-on is a pain.... It works, but "pops" on and off when acquiring the base signal. My feeling is that the auto-off setting is very sensitive and that when the signal drops/stops (for even an instant) the unit turns itself off. When it reacquires a signal - it turns itself back on (usually with a slight pop). Could this be a crossover problem? Maybe the auto-off part of the circuit should have a 5-second delay or something. At any rate the problem is very annoying when listening to music. My solution was to just set the unit to on - everything seems to be fine in that mode. Volume seems to be very sensitive so it will take a bit of fooling around to get it right. Crossover is set at 80 and works will with my Def. Tech. SM-450s. Like I said it sounds great. Even with the problem it was well worth the $100 (maybe $250).

 

[Shane_Lentini]

Ok, I need to amend my earlier post. My auto on does work on the DLS. It's just...well, odd. Hopefully someone can shed some light. This all takes place while I was listening to CD's. I set the DLS to auto-on, popped on a very bass heavy CD and voila, the light went from red to green and seamlessly provided me with bass. No pops when going from off to on, and the light was flickering like mad. Now for the odd part, not wanting to wake up the neighbors, I turned my receiver down to about -30. All of a sudden the auto-on feature stopped working. There was still bass, cause when I switched it to ON the sub started working again.

My question, with it set to AUTO-ON why would the sub get a signal and work perfectly when the volume on my receiver (Denon 1803) was at about -25 or louder. But when I turn it down the auto-on stopped??

This leads me to another question (sorry for the long post), my crossover is set to 80hz in the Denon. Now should I set the DLS to approx 80hz or just set it to it's max 160hz? I was under the impression that the receiver's xover setting would override the setting on the DLS but I don't think this is the case since I can hear a difference when changing the xover on the DLS. Thanks in advance!

shane

 

[Jeff-Watson]

That seems to be the general problem with the subs switch. If it does not get a steady powerful signal constantly then it switches on and off like crazy. A defect on this batch of subs for sure. I think I will just start switching the sub from off to on when I turn the system on. A small agravtion but its ok.

 

[Geoff L]

Just leave it on all the time or switch it ON when you want to use it. I would personaly contact PE about a new properly fuction Amp for the sub and see what they have to say. I am sure they have got quite a few calls on this in the last day or 2.

There is obviously a defect in the auto on circuit.
The reason it seems to work for YOUR SUB, is that at higher volumes the circuit see a higher input signal at the sub. At a lower voulumes it's lower. Hence why it will work when cranking bass heavy material with the volume up on the receiver and not when it's played at low volumes.

NO, the crossover in the sub (is not defeated) when you plug in from your receivers LFE output. You shoud turn the SUBs crossover OFF (if it has it) or (all the way up) as high as it goes. Depending on your room and it's accoustics you may want to bring the Subs crossover back into it. Till you measure what your system is doing in room with the sub and mains both playing, it's hard to tell what to do.

If you have Avia or the equivelent and an spl meter you can check this stuff out. Till then just set the sub up the way you like it.

In a hurry sorry for the quick answers.
Geoff

 

[Shane_Lentini]

Geoff,

Thanks for the explanation, it makes a lot more sense now. Yes, I have an SPL meter and S+V disc. However, he SV disc for the sub setup is a bit vague and reccomends setting it by ear over the use of an SPL? I also have a test tones disc.

When calibrating my other speakers I set the meter to 70, however the meter goes off the charts when trying to calibrate the sub. If you don't feel like explaining maybe you can point me to an explanation I've done a little searching with no luck...

 

[Chuck Bogie]

You've got the sub too hot? I've noticed that I tend to like systems set to where I can't "hear" the sub until it gets turned off, at which point I miss it.

Er... Can I restate something in a request for clarification? As I understand it, I should set my crossover on my 1803 at 80 (or 100? My center channel is an Infinity Entra, and the paperwork sez it goes to 95...), and the crossover on the Tiny Mity at max, turn the volume to approx 30%ish, and then calibrate?

Is this correct?