AUTO mode on DLS (1 Viewer)

[Jose G]

Are you sure it's on all the time? My green light stays on for awhile after bass is sent to the sub (It's more than 7 minutes, because I've waited for 7 minutes. I assume it's more like 10, but I'm never that patient to wait to see when it shuts off- it just does. When I come back to look it's off). Also if you put it to on first and then go to auto mode it will stay on for a long time before it goes out.

The phase switch: In phase (0) the sub is facing the same direction as the mains. Out of phase (180)- the sub is facing the mains. Many set it to what sounds best- although many can't even tell the difference between the two. A way to check is to have someone flip the switch for you and you stand at the listening spot to see if you hear a difference.

 

[WayneB]

Thanks Jose.

Well, it did go off (to red) soon after I switched my receiver over to television. I guess what was confusing me is that during Das Boot (with the original defective amp), the red and green would switch instantaneously depending on whether a bass signal was received or not. Seems like that is the way it should work - not a ten minute delay.

Oh well.

 

[Shane_Lentini]

Wayne,

My new amp functions the same way...don't worry though, this is how it is supposed to be. When set to auto-on, my amp's light will stay green a good 10 minutes before going into standby (red) with no signal going to it. You really don't want the sub to flash red/green cause you will lose some of the bass information being sent to it while it tries to "wake up".

To add to Jose's phase suggestions...if you have an SPL meter:

Play a test tone or a calibration disc where you can set your subs level. While the tone is playing, measure the db level while it is set to 0, then flip it to 180 and measure again. Usually you are safe to pick the setting that produced the higher db level. In my case, there was a 5db difference between the 0/180 setting.

 

[WayneB]

Thanks Shane

I'll accept this verdict, but it is SO different from the original amp.

BTW, who won the extra 5 dB, the zero or 180 setting?

Oh! One more question to the experts....On the Line In on the subwoofer, should both the red and white be plugged in, on just one? Previous posts seem to indicate both should be, but the leaflet with the DLS seems to suggest just one should be.

 

[Shane_Lentini]

My DLS is set to 180 for phase. The sub is facing my main/center speakers though...

Although even if I didn't own a SPL meter, I would have been able to tell by ear that at 180 I was getting more output. I was really surprised that the phase made that much of a difference.

BTW, I agree that the auto-on setting is night and day between the two amps.

 

[WayneB]

One more question to the experts....On the Line In on the subwoofer, should both the red and white be plugged in, on just one? Previous posts seem to indicate both should be, but the leaflet with the DLS seems to suggest just one should be.

 

[Shane_Lentini]

From previous suggestions, I used a Y splitter and plugged the LFE from my receiver into both inputs on the DLS. Since the DLS sums the inputs, it yields like a 2 or 3db gain if you use them both.

 

[WayneB]

thanks again Shane

i reckon that audio enthusiasts have to grab those extra decibels and gain wherever they can

 

[DanMU]

I just hooked up my first HT system, which includes the DLS 10" subwoofer (Ordered Jan. 3, 2003, received Feb. 19th), JBL NSP1 II set, Kenwood VR-6070 receiver. I called Eric of Parts Express yesterday, before I'd set things up and asked him if the whole batch of DLS 10's sent out at that point in time had bad amps and he said "no." So, I'm trying to figure out if mine is OK or not. What I'm experiencing right now is no sound from the DLS when Auto On is set to off. I do hear bass from it when Auto On is set to On. Has this been experienced by anyone else? I wanted to check here before calling Eric. I haven't hooked up my receiver to my computer yet - for the time being, that's my source for sound except for FM/AM. Right now I'm listening to FM. Thanks for your help.

Edit: I have another question. The DLS 10 seems to have L and R line level SW inputs. My Kenwood receiver appears to just have one SW preamp out. Do I just hook that up to either the L or R on the DLS? Thanks again.

Dan

 

[Brian Bunge]

Dan,

There are 3 settings for that switch. OFF, AUTO, and ON. If it works fine in AUTO mode then you're sub is fine.

 

[DanMU]

"There are 3 settings for that switch. OFF, AUTO, and ON. If it works fine in AUTO mode then you're sub is fine. "

Oh. I see now. I had only tried OFF and ON. It worked in ON. In AUTO I hear nothing at all. I guess it's bad, huh?

Please note, I edited my last post with an additional question about how to hook up the DLS. Thanks.

Dan

 

[DanMU]

Now I'm hearing absolutely nothing from the DLS SW, no matter how I set that switch. The red light is on, but I hear no sound. The sound's coming from the other speakers OK.

Dan

 

[Brian Bunge]

Dan,

If it doesn't work at all then yes, I believe it's bad. And the answer to your new question is yes.

 

[Brian Bunge]

The red light turns green when the sub is receiving a signal. Try turning the sub amp's volume to about 1/4 and turn up the sub volume on your receiver. If that doesn't work then you probably need to contact PE again.

 

[DanMU]

I just called PE and punched in Tech Support and got Shawn. I asked for Eric, who I'd talked to yesterday and was told he'd gone home for the day. So, I told Shawn my story and he said that was a new one. He said that the way they're dealing with things now is they want you to send the bad amp to them before they will ship out a "tested" replacement amp. I said that in the meantime I will have no SW because mine works in no mode whatsoever, but he said they will no longer send amps without you sending them the bad amp first. He said there were too many people trying to get free amps. I guess I have no choice and will pull out the old amp and send it to them. I could try calling Eric tomorrow, but I guess it's useless.

 

[DanMU]

I read through this whole thread today and saw a post that said it was a very good idea to talk to Eric instead of one of the other tech support team at PE, who are apt to ask you to send back your amp. This is indeed what had happened, and I had my amp all boxed up and was looking for a way to get it in the hands of UPS. After reading that post, I called Eric, explained the situation and he told me he'd get a replacement amp shipped out this afternoon. I asked him if it was a different amp, from a different manufacturer and he said that they were replacing the bad amps with amps from a different manufacturing run by the same manufacturer - i.e. the same amps, just ones that were not from the bad batch. He said they'd already sent out about 75 of these and to his knowledge, only one had been reported as having a problem. He told me to just throw my current amp away, which I will do insasmuch as it puts out no sound whatsoever in any mode.

 

[BillP]

Yet another bad amp from PE. They are sending out my third today. My replacement worked for about two weeks, then started blowing fuses. I still appreciate that they are willing to send a new one without sending the old one back. Great customer service, I just hope the quality control is there for my third amp.

 

[Geoff L]

Bill

Thats very unfortuant for you! :frowning:

But as PE has said they droped their DLS sub builder and are looking for other avenues. Just for those reasons, Quailty Control.

They did test your amp before it went out to you and as stated above, QC issues come into play again, it broke! Also may be why it seemed to not sound right nor get you the spl the others speak of.

Hopefully you will get a amp this time that lives a normal life. You do have to give them Kudos for sending a 2nd amp free of charge (make a total of 3) and you not having to spend or return nothing.

I certainly understand your frustration, but think of the others that want the DLS very bad and it is not offered anymore.
As Eric stated in an email to someone, they are woking on the DLS or a new sub, but it (will be a while)!!!!

Good Luck, 3rd time is the charm
Geoff

 

[BillP]

Yeah, the dang thing sounds good and the price is more than right, otherwise the frustration and QC issues would not be worth it.

 

[DanMU]

It's not clear to me that PE is absorbing the cost of replacing your amps. I'd imagine that they have a contract with the suppliers of the amps that would put the expense on the manufacturer. I think that would be standard. AFAIK, they are still sending out amps by that one manufacturer. Perhaps it's true that they are looking around for another supplier. Maybe we can get those amps at some future time if our current ones don't live out their warranty. What is that warranty, BTW? Since I ordered more than 2 months ago and still don't have a working amp (should arrive tomorrow), I assume my warranty period should stretch out 2+ months.