Repair ARS112PS? (1 Viewer)

[Robey5]

Hey all:

I have an AR sub woofer giving me fits, and I was wondering if it is time to replace it ... or if it is worth repairing.

It is an ARS112PS, purchased over 10 years ago, and did a fantastic job shaking the room when called upon to do so ... until recently. I have it connected to my Denon 2312, and I have swapped the cable and sub with a known working sub/cable to confirm that my trouble was not with my recently upgraded receiver.

What it does:
When a bass-rich song is playing (or any song with a bass line for that matter) - the sound is quiet and distorted with the bass line and is not providing any bump. I think that the plate amplifier is broken (perhaps one or both of the transistors is cooked?) - but when I pulled the amp off to inspect it there were not any glaring electronic components that looked fried.

I may be fighting the economics of repairing this unit, when Klipsch subs are getting close to my budget - but I feel that it would be wasteful to throw away a sub like this when nothing is wrong with the cabinet or the speaker itself.

Any suggestions out there?

 

[schan1269]

But an HTD amp and bypass the dead amp.

 

[Robey5]

I guess that I never thought of replacing the plate amp with an HTD separate (modular) amplifier and bipass the plate-amp. A 200W HTD amp is $219; another $150 and I am at an entry level powered sub however....

 

[schan1269]

But...you'll never need another amp.

When that driver pukes...

Buy another one from parts express. The box...is already there.

That $200 + a "future driver" at $150...is better than any $350 bargain sub.

No "every driver won't work in that box". But PE has people that can tell you what drivers will. The box is 90% of the battle.

Case in point...

Long ago(7 years ago? 10?) I bought a dead JBL DPS12 at a garage sale for $5. Bypassed the amp with a Sony SA-110N(something close).

When that driver died(like 2 years later) I replaced it with an Infinity driver that had the correct T&S(what you need...to pick a driver for a given box).

I happened across a Krell monoblock that had been dropped(the binding posts were sheared off. 10 minutes with a solder gun...had 10ft of wire permanently attached) for $250.

$5+$95+$250=$350.

As you can guess...a $350 sub isn't touching it...

And...if you have any semblance of woodworking skills, and can follow a plan, 2x2 and a sheet of MDF with rattle can/vinyl is, at most...$50 and a couple hours time. Then it is an amp/driver. Many designs out there under $500 all in...

 

[Robey5]

Well put. I have some ideas in mind, I suppose that I will thank you by posting some pictures etc when I plow through this little project!

 

[Mike Frezon]

Well put. I have some ideas in mind, I suppose that I will thank you by posting some pictures etc when I plow through this little project!

I, for one, would be really interested to hear about things as you make your way through the process. Pictures would go a long way in helping me understand how this sort of thing works. And how easy/hard it all is.

 

[Robey5]

Ok --- After looking at the SDA200 (found HERE) from HTD, I have some questions.


I see that there is a "level" adjustment dial which would allow you to adjust the ... volume? the active frequency output? of the sub "once" per the information sheet.


On my plate amplifier that is currently there, there is a volume level and frequency adjustment level; and I am a little confused by how going digital will rid me of needing that adjustment.


Anyone have an SDA200 that they can report their experience on? Gets good reviews on their site...