Little DIY sub, some pics... (1 Viewer)

[Jack Gilvey]

In the interest of seeing what I could get out of a tiny enclosure, and in dire need of an "interim" sub, I put together a ~1 ft.^3 for the PE 12" DVC woofer.
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I'm not one for documentation (I typically achieve funtionality at best), but Rudy from the PE board was kind enough to post a writeup in his project archive , so that's where details on FR, construction, sound, etc. can be found if you're interested. Of course, I'd be happy to answer any questions, but it's just a basic box, really.
The finish, Rustoleum hammered deep green, really does show up much better in person, being much deeper and more "figured" than it appears here.
Edit: 4/2, link fixed.

 

[Patrick Sun]

Nice job!
Like I said over on the PE Board, I can't wait to paint my Sunone's front baffles with that same green hammered metal spray paint!
Are you going to build a box for that amp I see in pic 1? I need to do the same with mine. Just a matter of getting some wood cut to specs...

 

[Scott Simonian]

Looks sweet.

Let us know how it sounds.
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Yes, these are bruises from fighting. Yes, I am comfortable with that. I am enlightened.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Scott,
Thanks, it sounds very good for such a small sub. I posted some more detailed impressions and some measurements on that archive link.
Pat,
Thanks again. I think I will wind up mounting the amp in another box. I have one of those 300-793 remote control amps from PE, but I didn't realize that the connection to the remote plate was on the back of the amp, so the control/sensor needs to be mounted on the sub itself. No room for that on this sub, though. The amp in the pic is a 300-800 I picked up, I'm going to try that one with this sub, also.
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[Chris Sherman]

Nice work Jack! I just ordered my fourth 12" DVC from Kyle Richardson, so you know I like that driver. Very much like a shiva with the added advantage that it works well in a very small box.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Thanks, Chris, and yeah, that DVC is definitely a cool driver.
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[Ken Cline]

Great job Jack!. I like the slick paint job.
I also thought about using the PE mesh grills, but thought it might restrict the output(airflow).
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Ken Cline - Home Theater Fanatic
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[Patrick Sun]

Jack, I'm sending back my 300-793 plate amp for 2 reasons:
1. having to solder those resistors to eliminate the bass boost (after reading about the amp catching fire scares me!)
2. that remote sensor makes it a pain to hide the amp away if you have to integrate it into an existing sub.
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PatCave; HT Pix; Gear; DIY Mains; DIY CC; Sunosub I + II + III; DVDs; Link Removed

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Thanks, Ken, yours ain't too shabby, either. The mesh grill is very nice, and completely open to airflow. You can see how open it is in the sunlit picture.
Pat,
I'm going to try the amp with the boost intact first, and see what kind of response I get, I really want to avoid the whole de-soldering process. Now I just need to put another back on the sub, and install some binding posts. If I do keep the amp, I'll make a small "hideaway" box for it, and a separate box for the remote sensor, which I'll place somewhere in my rack. I'll have to see about extensions for the umbilical from the amp to the remote module.
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[Neil Joseph]

Looks good. What are you using to power it? What is the excursion of the driver you are using?
orangeman
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[Jack Gilvey]

Thanks, Neil. I initially had an Adire AVA250 installed, and my http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl?read=42649

 

[KevinMcL]

Jack- have you considered moving the IR eye to the front of the remote? When I removed my IR eye from my 2nd receiver, I hot-melt glued it to the front of the remote, and added an umbilical cord betwen the circuit borad, and IR eye. It works perfectly, and allows me to hide the remote, because the remote does'nt need the line of sight. Just a suggestion.

 

[Hank Frankenberg]

Wild-looking sub, Jack! Nice job.
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[Kevin Liedtke]

Awsome sub Jack. Nice work!

 

[TerryC]

Looks great!!

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Jeez guys, sincere thanks for the nice words.

KevinMcL,
Thanks for the suggestion, it's a great idea. I think, though, that I will send it back in exchange for the non-remote model, easier that way. And I can't envision the remote capability being all that important once it's set up properly.
Terry,
Just wanted to let you know that I've been using that PSI panel saw system that you mentioned a long time ago and it's been working very well. I currently just clamp the cutting guide to the workpiece, but I intend to make a more accurate and easier-to-use table jig for it that I can just stand up against the wall when not in use.
You can see it Link Removed
[Edited last by Jack Gilvey on September 17, 2001 at 10:21 PM]

 

[Seungsoo Hwang]

Nice sub! I have a question about that paintjob, is it over MDF, and how did you go about priming the box if you did at all? Also, how did you paint it so that each side has an even coat..(when I painted my Shiva box with the black hammerite spray, I did each side of the box at a time, because it would drip. Also, the fine spray residue would get on the dry smooth sides and make it somewhat rough and sandpapery.... if you could detail how exactly you sprayed the box that would be great.) again, nice little sub.

 

[TerryC]

Glad it helps, I'm not sure if I posted the pics of the table jig I mad but it is a major time saver for sure. I just copied the example in the instuctions.

 

[Jack Gilvey]

Seungsoo,
quote: I did each side of the box at a time, because it would drip. Also, the fine spray residue would get on the dry smooth sides and make it somewhat rough and sandpapery...[/quote]
I did the same thing, and I had the same problem. I posted the process in Rudy's archive link in my first post, but basically this is what I did:
I sanded down to 220, primed with 2 coats of Rustoleum professional grey primer,then did more patching, then more sanding, then primed the patched parts again for a total of two or three primer coats. After letting all that dry for a day, I proceeded to apply approximately 3 coats of the Rustoleum hammered deep green over the course of about 1 and 1/2 hours. It's important to re-coat either before two hours or after two days, else wrinkles apparently develop (I didn't find out, fortunately). As you mentioned, it's very important to paint each side horizontally, to avoid drips and runs. This required a very "active" involvement in the painting process, since I needed to wait long enough for each coat on each side to dry sufficiently to flip, while still applying all coats in under the two hours. I did have places where I sprayed a little too much on a corner, and had a drip or two over the then-vertical side, but a quick wipe and respray cured that. This stuff goes on thick, and the irregularity of the finish in both texture and color (much more pronounced than in the pictures) makes it very forgiving of this kind of screw-up.

The dulling of the "dried" finish on adjoining sides by overspray was very annoying, and I thought I might have to apply a glossy "glaze" coat over this one, but I managed to even things out with some careful reapplication and direction of the spray.
I attached two long clamps to my sawhorses, and used these to support the box by passing the ends of the clamps through the driver and amp cutouts, so I didn't have to place a painted side down on anything.
Well, that's one long ramble, so if anything's unclear, just ask.
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[Edited last by Jack Gilvey on September 18, 2001 at 08:47 AM]

 

[James Mudler]

Jack nice sub.
Terry and Jack - I too own the PSI panel saw to save my back before going to the table saw. I would love to see your table designs. I would like to make a upright jig, so any ideas would be great. Thanks
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