DIY replacement for dual SVS 16-46CS+? (1 Viewer)

[JimPeitersen]

6 inch aeroports at www.audiophiles-online.com for 39.95 a pair.
JP

 

[Ryan Schnacke]

From what I've seen the alignment white papers from Adire and the Stryke Power15 dimension and layout sheets are the most detailed plans available to the DIYer for free. Unfortunately the Power15 enclosures use the very expensive HE series driver.

Plans for the Stryke AV series drivers were supposed to be up back in September according to their website. With most companies you're lucky just to get an alignment suggestion (ex: 4 cu ft tuned to 20Hz with 4 inch port). Very few go to the lengths that Adire and Stryke have in designing the enclosure for you. The Adire designs seem well documented and use simple butt joints. Cutt, glue, clamp. If you have specific construction questions, why not ask here?

 

[David Giles]

aeroports?

 

[David Giles]

Thanks Ryan. I've been looking closer at the Adire Alignment plans. They do look pretty simple, but since I've never done this before, some things aren't very obvious to me. How is the port tubing installed? If I shorten the legs to an inch or so, and move the driver to a side like Dustin suggested, do I just redesign the braces to fit around it? Do I also move the ports to the same side as the driver, or can I leave them on the bottom (even with short legs)? In a design like this, where would I install the speaker wire connections?

And you said "...use simple butt joints. Cutt, glue, clamp". So I wouldn't use any screws anywhere in the structure? What kind of wood glue would you use? Would a strictly glued structure be strong enough for the pounding of a subwoofer?

I'm beginning to get excited about the building process! Thanks in advance for your help in getting me started.

David

 

[Ryan Schnacke]

"aeroports? "

Aeroports are ports made of plastic with large flares that connect to the ends of the straight portion of the port tube. The flares come seperate so that you can cut the straight portion to the desired length and then add the flares. Generally you should make the TOTAL length of a dual-flared port like this 1 inch longer than the total length of a straight port with the same inner diameter. These flared ports greatly reduce the amount of turbulence as the air exits the ports and hence allows you to use smaller ports without suffering from port noises ("chuffing").

"How is the port tubing installed?"

The aeroports have a flange with screw holes on one of the flares that allows you to screw it down to the panel once you've made the appropriate port cutout. If you're making your own PVC port then you must glue it in. Either way you'll want an airtight seal around the port installation and all the joints. A bead of silicone caulk is recommended.

"move the driver to a side like Dustin suggested, do I just redesign the braces to fit around it?"

Yes. Try to brace such that each panel is coupled to the panel opposite it. Adire's bracing designs do this, so just mimic what they do.

"Do I also move the ports to the same side as the driver, or can I leave them on the bottom"

I'd probably move the ports. If you use short legs and ports on bottom then the ports won't have much breathing room. The air can still be confined much like it is in the port. So it may act as if the air under the sub is still inside the port. In other words, your tuning might end up lower than you planned.

"In a design like this, where would I install the speaker wire connections?"

Wherever you want. Think about which side of the sub will face the room and which side will face the wall and whether you want the speaker connections visible or not.

"So I wouldn't use any screws anywhere in the structure? What kind of wood glue would you use? Would a strictly glued structure be strong enough for the pounding of a subwoofer?"

If you want to use screws you certainly can. I've used them. But lots of guys will recommend just gluing and clamping. If you only have a couple of clamps that may take a long time since you'd have to wait for each joint to dry before moving on. I use Titebond but Elmer's wood glue works fine as well. In the end, a properly glued joint will be stronger than the wood its joining.