Behold, my DIY Salamander Synergy - style rack (1 Viewer)

[Brett DiMichele]

AndrewJC,

If you look at Brett's rack he has pieces of aluminum angle
cut to the same depth as the shelves. I assume he is holding
the angle aluminum to the 80/20 aluminum extrusions via
bolts and 80/20 T-Slot nuts. And the shelves are either
fastened to the aluminum angle via bolts/nuts or screws.

I am sure Brett can give you the exact details but that's
what my eyes see.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

One more thing I must be saying. Nice is the Lego Yoda on
the shelf it sits upon... Yesssssss Yesssssss

 

[Ken Cline]

Chris,

Got any pics of your rack? I would love to see it.

-Ken

 

[Andrew JC]

Brett DiMichele, Thanks for the input. I downloaded the set up instructions from Salamander and was just wondering if the same shelf pins were used.Also just trying to see where the parts were sourced from. Thanks...andy

 

[Chris Keen]

I had some of the buildup process, but my wife erased the camera memory before I downloaded it. She took the camera to the office so she could take a couple of photos for an office party. She didn't have to erase all my pics of the buildup! I can try and shoot a few of it now.

The only thing I haven't finished on it yet are the doors for the unit. I just got my Porter Cable biscuit joiner in from Amazon yesterday. I'll try to finish up the doors for it so I can finish it off. I did the cabinet in birch plywood, and used birch hardwood for edges to mold, etc. I used some Behlen NGR dye (medium brown walnut) to try and achieve a walnut look. Didn't get quite where I wanted. It was worth the effort though, as I had never tried something like this. I will actually redo the thing (probably in February). This time I'll do it up pretty much the same, but use walnut veneered plywood and walnut hardwood to do the edges and frames for the doors. That way I can just use a nice oil (Danish, or other) to bring a nice finish to the project.

I'm probably (please Santa) gonna get a thickness planer and a dust collector for Christmas. I'm looking at that swanky new DeWalt 13" (at about $480 unless someone knows where for cheaper).

Chris

BTW, if I shoot some pics (and my camera isn't the greatest for indoor shots), how can I show them here? I don't think HTF has the ability for me to upload pics here.

 

[MattD]

I can host your pics if you would like. PM me.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

or email me and I will make you a temp directory and you
can post them.

 

[Brett Miles]

One more thing I must be saying. Nice is the Lego Yoda . . .

That is easily one of the coolest knick-knacks I've ever obtained. The Lego Ultimate Collector's Series is an attraction for an 80s kid and Star Wars fan. You should see the Star Destroyer kit they have now, if you haven't already! It's just waaaaaay too expensive. I got Yoda for about 50% off on closeout at Wal-mart, or it would have been to rich for me as well.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

Hello Me it's Me again... (LOL so fitting...)

The Carriage bolt was a great idea too.. The T-Slot Nuts
are not expensive per se, but I am guessing they would be
a little tricky to work with because you have to drop them
all into the extrusion from one end and then thread the bolts
into them.

I am going to thread all-thread rods into the T-Slot Nuts
and then tack weld the all-thread to the T-Slot Nuts to
keep them from falling off. All of my adjustments will be
made by loosening three poly lock nuts in the center rings
of each level of shelving.

 

[Ken Cline]

Any ideas about hinges for doors? It looks like the Salamander hinges are specially made for them. I couldn't find those on the 80/20 website, and believe me, I looked. Might be able to use a standard europeon hinge.

Also, McMaster-Carr has the fractional extrusions. I would rather have the metric because of the smooth finish, looks nicer. The price looks comparable to that of reidtools.com

I would like to build mine like this except taller. Maybe in 2 sections.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

Ken,



Use to mount heavier doors, hinge two extrusions side by side. Clear irridite finish. Use four bolt assemblies listed on this page for mounting. See part number AES-1010 for aluminum extrusions.

http://www.reidtool.com/store/store/...dCategory=8255

 

[Ken Cline]

Brett D,

I saw those. But, if you look at the Salamander site, or that picture I posted, it looks as if the doors are reccessed slightly. I don't think the one you posted would work. Maybe I'm wrong.

 

[Brett DiMichele]

Ken,

I am not sure.. But any hinge will work as long as you can
get the right size machine screw through the hinge and into
the T-Slot Nut..

I am sure a cabinetry supply place would have all sorts of
hidden hinges and something would work.

 

[Brian Bunge]

I have a Salamander S40 in walnut at home. If I remember, tonight I'll snap some pics of the hinges. From what I remember they are some European style hinges though.

 

[Ken Cline]

But any hinge will work as long as you can
get the right size machine screw through the hinge and into
the T-Slot Nut..

That's what I'm hoping to do. Rockler has lots of hinges. I found this one that might work. The only thing to contend with is the depth of the hinge - from the back of the door frame to the center of the screw holes on the extrusion.

 

[Chris Keen]

Okay, sorry guys, I got lost last night after posting. I snapped some pics though, and can post them, I just need a place to upload them. I'll PM a few of you. Regarding the hinges, I'll be doing the hidden Euro hinges myself. Those don't seem to be that hard to do. By the way, you might not have realized that you can find these types of hinges at your local HD or Lowes as well.

Also, there are T-nut inserts that MUST be dropped in from an open end, and there are inserts that allow you to insert them from the middle. This middle insertable type is a bit more expensive, but in reality these things are cheap. I used regular T-nut inserts. I also used allen drive machine cap bolts. I used some rubber washers to to get an extra "grip" and hopefully reduce any possibilities of vibrations, etc. I used little 90 degree angle brackets under the shelfes to attach to the posts (4 per shelf). Also, if you don't like the T-nut inserts, there are T-bolts that will slip into the slots, and you only have to put a nut on the end of it.

 

[Chris Keen]

Okay, here's four of the pics. I'm gonna just give the URL for the others. First off, my appologies on the poor pic quality. I'm not a smart camera kind of guy. Although Brett did give me some good hints on improving my indoor shots (thanks). These were resized and lightened up a bit by Brett, and hosted on his space. Thanks Brett!!!









There rest of them are here .

Chris...

 

[Ken Cline]

Very nice Chris! What kind of wood did you use? stain/finish?

 

[Chris Keen]

That's nothing more than Birch plywood. The edges of the plywood were mated with some Birch hardwood. The stain I used is actually a dye. I used the Behlen NGR alcohol dye in the medium brown walnut color. I think I did about three coats of dye if I remember correctly. Over that I used Zar tung-oil.

I did this project in Birch because it is cheap (by comparison to some others). I figured if I screwed something up with Birch, it was cheap to replace and learn from.

I'll redo this project in the late winter or early spring perhaps. This time I'll probably do it in Mahogony or Walnut (what I really wanted). It's quite a bit more, but finishing it should be a lot easier (no dyes or stains).

 

[Brett DiMichele]

Chris,

Glad I could be of service! But next time.. One image per
email.. Holy Cow it took forever to download