Anyone in Sav, Ga area to help with sub box? (1 Viewer)

[schan1269]

Set center to small...
I assume you mean the EP4000...
No it does not have a 12V trigger...but...
You can always get a 12V trigger plug...
However, have no idea what "yanking the cord from the wall" to shut off the EP4000 would do(that is essentially what a 12V trigger plug does. There are models with "soft off" or even "delayed off"...but they aren't cheap)
http://www.amazon.com/Niles-Black-FG00242-Voltage-Triggered/dp/B00086IDDC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346175628&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+trigger+power+strip

 

[mulalleybs]

Set center to small...
I assume you mean the EP4000...
No it does not have a 12V trigger...but...
You can always get a 12V trigger plug...
However, have no idea what "yanking the cord from the wall" to shut off the EP4000 would do(that is essentially what a 12V trigger plug does. There are models with "soft off" or even "delayed off"...but they aren't cheap)
http://www.amazon.com/Niles-Black-FG00242-Voltage-Triggered/dp/B00086IDDC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1346175628&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+trigger+power+strip

I was thinking about that, not all electronics can simply be unplugged, that is for sure. I think I'll just be unlazy and walk the extra 5 feet and flip the switch.
I've also read quite a few people saying keep the sub setup to 80 hz and others saying different. I currently have it on 120 hz. What do you guys recommend?

 

[schan1269]

Also, in your manual for the 12V. It will even say if it can be used "same zone" or must be used "Zone 2/3".

 

[mulalleybs]

Also, in your manual for the 12V. It will even say if it can be used "same zone" or must be used "Zone 2/3".

I looked through the manual, but I didn't really understand what zone 2/3 was used for. I currently have "amp assign" set to normal.

 

[schan1269]

Zone 2/3...
Is the ability to hook up your kitchen and bedroom (zone is the preferred nomenclature over room) with a pair of speakers....and run them from the Denon.
Zone 2 and 3 have to be analog audio though(however, by now...Denon might have included digital on that one???).
So, while a movie is blaring in the living room...while you cook, you can listen to a cd, an Ipod connected via 1/8th...
Also Zone 2/3 can be on while Zone 1 is off...so you can listen in the kitchen all by itself.
The major benefit(which I use) with Zone 2 pre-out. Connect it to a Rocketfish RBAUX...then the other end can be ANYWHERE. Great for "Sunday game day". You can pipe the game sound into the kitchen while you refill with chips/beer.

 

[mulalleybs]

Zone 2/3...
Is the ability to hook up your kitchen and bedroom (zone is the preferred nomenclature over room) with a pair of speakers....and run them from the Denon.
Zone 2 and 3 have to be analog audio though(however, by now...Denon might have included digital on that one???).
So, while a movie is blaring in the living room...while you cook, you can listen to a cd, an Ipod connected via 1/8th...
Also Zone 2/3 can be on while Zone 1 is off...so you can listen in the kitchen all by itself.
The major benefit(which I use) with Zone 2 pre-out. Connect it to a Rocketfish RBAUX...then the other end can be ANYWHERE. Great for "Sunday game day". You can pipe the game sound into the kitchen while you refill with chips/beer.

Oh thats pretty cool, not a feature I see myself using anytime soon though.
I'd be lying if i said I understood now. Haha, Ok so say you're using a 7.1 set up you're saying you could listen to something else with 2 speakers via the surround back/amp assign connections?

 

[Robert_J]

I've also read quite a few people saying keep the sub setup to 80 hz and others saying different. I currently have it on 120 hz. What do you guys recommend?

I use 80hz. I could probably go lower since my speakers are pretty flat to around 40hz.

I think I'll just be unlazy and walk the extra 5 feet and flip the switch.

My amp stays on all of the time. It would be an 8 foot walk for me and that's too much.

Only problem is it doesn't say how to configure it so that I can use it to turn on my amp automatically. If one of you guys could explain how to do that, that would be pretty sweet.

As Sam mentioned, the Behringer doesn't have a 12v turn on. But you asked how it works. It works exactly like a car head unit and a car amp. The head unit sends a signal to the amp and the amp powers on. This amp has an "external trigger turn on" which means it will work with your Denon's 12v turn on wire. http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/xpa5

 

[Al.Anderson]

I've also read quite a few people saying keep the sub setup to 80 hz and others saying different. I currently have it on 120 hz. What do you guys recommend?

The higher you go, the more the signal becomes "directional"; meaning, you can tell where the sub is located. That's not a desired effect, so keeping below 80hz is a good rule of thumb.
Other than that, if you have smaller speakers, or the non-subs aren't as good as the sub, then you might shift the crossover higher. Conversely, if the non-subs (particularly the mains) are better than the subs, then you might want to go down a bit more, say to 60hz.

 

[mulalleybs]

I use 80hz. I could probably go lower since my speakers are pretty flat to around 40hz.
My amp stays on all of the time. It would be an 8 foot walk for me and that's too much.
As Sam mentioned, the Behringer doesn't have a 12v turn on. But you asked how it works. It works exactly like a car head unit and a car amp. The head unit sends a signal to the amp and the amp powers on. This amp has an "external trigger turn on" which means it will work with your Denon's 12v turn on wire. http://shop.emotiva.com/collections/amplifiers/products/xpa5

Hopefully you see this and reply.
Truck audio:
One of my door speakers was blown (mb quart pvi216) so I got a really good deal on some boston acoustics pro60se ($200) and am going to buy them tomorrow. I looked up the enclosure that is currently in my truck, the box is anywhere from .65 to .7 cu ft for each 12 which pretty much put it at the bare minimum for them. These are the 600W RMS subs also model SWR1243 (I believe) about a year old so I think they are the newer magnet style you were speaking of.
So my question is would a single ported larger box sound better than the dual small sealed box? I'm not sure how much room I'll have but a larger dual ported or sealed box might be feasible. If the single route would be best would there be a better sub I should get in the $200 or less price range?
I also have a few amps, the one I thought sounded the best is the worst of the three amps which didn't make much sense to me. one is a kenwood amp 500w bridged(the one being used), a kicker 750.1 and the alpine pdx1000.1 or something like that. I would think the alpine would have been the best but without a gain knob there was practically no bass so I never used it.
Hmm thats all the questions I can think of at the moment. haha
Thanks
Brett

 

[Robert_J]

I looked up the enclosure that is currently in my truck, the box is anywhere from .65 to .7 cu ft for each 12 which pretty much put it at the bare minimum for them. These are the 600W RMS subs also model SWR1243 (I believe) about a year old so I think they are the newer magnet style you were speaking of.

That is way too small for Alpine Type R subs. They need about 1.2 cubic feet per sub to perform optimally.

So my question is would a single ported larger box sound better than the dual small sealed box?

Way too many variables to give you a solid answer. Depends on driver, tuning and music you listen to.

If the single route would be best would there be a better sub I should get in the $200 or less price range?

The Alpine is a great sub in the right enclosure. It all depends on the enclosure size. If you are limited to that amount of air space, dual 10's may be a better option depending on your goals. Yes, they won't be as loud but they will play flatter and lower.

I would think the alpine would have been the best but without a gain knob there was practically no bass so I never used it.

Those gain knobs are usually just a blown sub waiting to happen. Some control the gain. Others control the bass boost. Either way, it's best to set your amp and leave it. If you must control the level, control the level of the entire sub via a line level control like this - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002J226O/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00

 

[schan1269]

"blown sub waiting to happen"...
I have a copy of the 1812 Overture being played by the LSO right outside Westminster...instead of "drums" at the ending sequence...they used cannons...
I have offered up this CD, with the warning about the actual cannon blasts, to kids wanting to see how much bass they had...emphasis on the "had"...

 

[schan1269]

Oh yeah, if really want to test your system, keep this in your truck...the title/artist names aren't too shabby...
http://www.amazon.com/Organ-Sensation-Hell/dp/B00000156O/ref=sr_1_1?s=music&ie=UTF8&qid=1347464193&sr=1-1&keywords=felix+hell
By the way, somewhere there is him playing MC Hammer's "U Can't Touch This" on an organ in a Boston church.

 

[mulalleybs]

I need to figure out how large of a box I can make first i suppose.

 

[mulalleybs]

Found someone locally selling a fi q 12 for $175. Do you think the FI in a ported box would be better than 2 type r's in a sealed box both being the same size? Granted the single would be less cone area, but its almost triple the rms of a single R and it has more xmax also.

 

[Robert_J]

Look at swept volume. Find the piston area of the driver (the Sd parameter) in square centimeters. Multiply that times xmax times 2 and make sure it is in centimeters as well. Divide the result by 1,000 and you have the total number of liters of air the sub can move.
Or you can model them in Unibox or WinISD and compare the output graphs.

 

[mulalleybs]

I just tried messing with it...and don't understand a single thing to be honest.

 

[mulalleybs]

Also something I've noticed, the sub box is about 4 inches off each corner, the room walls shake like crazy but it seems like the bass should be much louder for all the vibrations and how much the speaker is actually moving.

 

[schan1269]

Have you run a sinewave to determine what your SPL is at 20hz?
http://www.audiocheck.net/

 

[mulalleybs]

Have you run a sinewave to determine what your SPL is at 20hz?
http://www.audiocheck.net/

Come on now, you know I have no idea what you just said. Haha
Definitely couldn't hear the 10hz though the sub was shaking like crazy, 20 hz shook my whole bedroom pretty badly but I could hear it some.

 

[schan1269]

You wanted to know why it "wasn't as loud as you thought"...
Well, download a few test tones and go buy a SPL meter. Sound Pressure Level.
Then you'll know if you need to change something up.