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A Few Questions (1 Viewer)

Don.l

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
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120
Real Name
Don
Building HT and will have a Runco projector and Stewart Firehawk screen, and will be running 5.1. In the framing stage still so still early. Questions:

1. Game Consoles: Should I investigate wireless controllers or should I try to get longer cords for the controllers. The consoles will be in the AV rack at the back of the room. If I get longer cords could I run them under the carpet or something? What have some of you done?

2. For my AV rack I am planning on building a partition wall that will allow me to walk behind the wall to access any and all wiring. I don't need anything of these fancy racks that come out and spin and stuff. I just basically need a shelf system that will house about 6 components. I plan on just framing for and drywalling an opening to house the components. Anybody done something like this on the cheap side? I'm really not into spending $600 on an AV rack.

3. I will have a pretty small HT about 10' X 22'. I will try to get two rows of two for seating. The second row I will build a riser for that row. How high should I build the riser? I was thiking of making the riser out of 2x4's and then using a 1" sheet of of plywood that would raise it off the groud around 5"-6". Anybody got any ideas?

4. Center Channel: Above or below the screen? I know I could drop more money and put it behind the screen, but that's pretty pricey. What do you all think sounds the best, above the screen angled down or below the screen and angled up?

That's enough for now. I'm still in the framing stage, and even though it's hard, and sometimes frustrating, it is fun, and I know what the end result will be.

Thanks
Don
 

Chip_Slattery

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jan 10, 2001
Messages
151
Don,

I'll take a stab at a few of your questions:

1. Look into wireless, or pull appropriate A/V cables to the face of your riser so you can set up your console at your seating position.

2. You could simply buy shelf standards and associated hardware at your local big box (HD, Lowe's, etc.) and either some pre-cut MDF or melamine shelves. Install in your pre-framed opening and paint to suit.

3. Take a look here: Riser Calculator
Once you determine your height go ahead and build it with the appropriate 2x lumber. Make sure you stuff the riser with insulation to avoid unwanted resonances.

4. General consensus seems to be if it can't be behind the screen then above is the best compromise. Apparently we (humans) are better at localizing sounds closer to the ground. Whichever you choose make sure you can get your LCR tweeters as close as possible to the same height.

Good luck with your project and post some pics if you have a chance.
 

Darren Mortensen

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jul 26, 2001
Messages
232
Don,

1.) I use XBOX with RF Wireless controllers. Just got the MadCatz Wireless Steering Wheel... but haven't had a chance to use it though. Go wireless for sure!

2.) Go for it. My rack is 2x4 frames and sheetrocked. I used steel shelf rails and clips then had custom glass cut for the shelves for a touch of class. As long as you organize your components and do a nice job on your cabinet, you will have no need for expensive A/V racks.

3.) The riser is dependent upon screen placement and seating height. Use the calculator as mentioned.

4.) I prefer the center above the screen, and I install both ways dependent upon screen placement and wall space.

In addition: I recommend prewiring for 6 or even 7 channel surround instead of the 5.1 standard, as you mentioned.
 

David Noll

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Aug 31, 2004
Messages
228
Don,

My HD game port is run to my middle riser so I can play games from any row in my theater. (see in gallery-follow link below)

I also have Runco projector (VX-1000ci upgraded to "d") and an interesting problem is occurring with my XBOX console. When I play HD games in 480i, my Runco processor keeps flipping between 480 and 560 (?) causing the image jump around. The problem seems to be with newer mfg'd XBOX's because I hooked-up one that was mfg'd about a year ago and no problem. I also hooked-up my newer XBOX on another Runco system and it has the same problem. I guess my only solution is to find an older mfg'd XBOX.

Just passing that along to you "just in case".

David
 

Don.l

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Apr 9, 2005
Messages
120
Real Name
Don
Thanks for your advice. I thought I was on the right track. I really don't want to deal with the sand on the stage, but I guess I probably should. How do you keep the sand from coming out the bottom?

Thanks
 

Michael Whitney

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Feb 17, 2005
Messages
50
From what I saw from someones pictures, they compartmentalized the stage into sections and lined it all with thick clear plastic from what I remember.
 

John Swarce

Second Unit
Joined
Jan 27, 2003
Messages
475
Don:

I am in the process of building my stage right now, so I have had your questions before...

Are you building your theater in your basement, or on another level? If you are in the basement, use sand in the stage. If not, DON'T! Sand is way too heavy to use on your floor joists. Use insulation instead (and pack it in there!). I'll assume you are building in the basement.

Lay down 30 lb. roofing felt on your floor for isolation. Build a rectangular box with 2 x ? (your choice on height and depth), 12" O.C., 1/4" from your walls. Stuff insulation in the 1/4" gap. Line each cavity with plastic (I'm using 6 mil thickness). Fill each cavity with DRY play sand (sold in bags at HD or Lowe's). Put down another layer of roofing felt. Then lay down 3 layers of plywood in the following order with roofing felt in between...3/4", 1/2", and 3/4". You will have a 2" thick platform on your stage framing and it will be as solid as a rock. You don't want a stage with any resonance if you are putting speakers (especially subwoofers) on it. Check out The AVS Forum for a bunch of info on this subject!

Hope this helps!

John
 

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