3-way fronts (good idea?) (1 Viewer)

[Matt Dolejsi]

I'm in the process of building a home theater setup, I already have some fronts wich will soon become my rear channels, Center channel is on the way, and I have a tempest sealed in about 3.5 cubes with about 400 watts.

My three-way front towers will probably employ dayton
1-1/8th silk tweeters, elan elite dome midranges, and dayton 10" woofers. I think i'll have quite sufficient freq response overlap. I'll also probably go sealed instead of vented because i like that sound better and it'll still go low enough to blend with my sub.

basically i'm looking for advice or tips or if i should look into something different

thanx

 

[John Garcia]

Have you built a speaker of this type yourself before? Have you heard these drivers? What are you going to use for the crossover? If you haven't built a x-over or speaker like this, I would HIGHLY recommend starting with a 2-way first, or buy a pre-designed kit. Driver overlap is not the only thing you need to know, as the crossover is just as critical as the drivers. It is not as simple as slap some drivers in a box and they will sound good.

Also, this belongs in the DIY area.

 

[Matt Dolejsi]

Yes i have built some 2 ways and tweaked and retweaked them, and i do know the basics of xover design. The 3ways will be a new experience but i'll have to jump into it someday...I have some prebuilt crossovers from some infinity reference speakers and i'll tweak the cap values and such as needed.
I have heard the tweeters and the midranges but not the woofers. I'm hoping to be satisfied...I don't need audiophile quality and flat -+2db operation...what i do need is something that won't be assaulting to the ears.

 

[John Garcia]

Sounds like you've done your homework then. Do you have the Louspeaker Design Cookbook by any chance? Good reference for this kind of project, and worth the $20 or so. Are you getting the cabinets from PE or making them?

 

[Patrick Sun]

Thread moved to DIY area.

 

[Matt Dolejsi]

I'm building the cabinets, standard mdf hopefully golden ratio if they don't look too goofy, probably somekinda mahogany veneer...

I'll probably look into that book as well, i've been meaning to get it...

has anyone used these 10" drivers, i'm modeled them in different programs..the PE program recommends .80 cubic feet, but the way i modeled them came up to about 1.1 or 1.2 to get a q.707 . recommendations?

Power handling: 70 watts RMS/105 watts max * Voice coil diameter: 1-3/8" * Voice coil inductance: 1.60 * Impedance: 8 ohms * Re: 6.7 ohms * Frequency response: 25-2,500 Hz * Magnet weight: 20 oz. * Fs: 25 Hz * SPL: 89dB 1W/1m * Vas: 3.50 cu. ft. * Qms: 3.15 * Qes: .40 * Qts: .35 * Xmax: 4.5mm *

 

[Robert_J]

has anyone used these 10" drivers

Designs using the Dayton 10":

Wayne J.'s Veritas
Wayne J.'s Lyra

 

[Matt Dolejsi]

Ok well he's using around 1.8 cubes for the lyra and lots of stuffing which seems to me like something very different from what i modeled up...Using PE's own program...weird

nice setup though

 

[Matt Dolejsi]

has anyone heard Elan Elite audio stuff, I have only heard these two midranges and they sound quite nice, i looked on their website and they sell some rather higher dollar stuff. I chanced upon these for a good price...

 

[Dennis XYZ]

You could probably change Wayne's bass tuning without affecting the crossover much. As he's using more or less the same drivers you have in mind, and he has an excellent reputation as a crossover designer, I'd just go ahead and use his drivers and his crossover. I'd probably even copy his box tuning. Wayne measures the drivers himself. I never trust factory T/S parameters -- they're almost always way off and any sims you do based on them will be way off too.

 

[Matt Dolejsi]

thanks for the heads up on that one, I'll definitely keep that in mind...interesting the specs aren't the specs, the concept