Help with speaker calibration!!! (1 Viewer)

[Alowe]

Sorry for the lengthly post, wanted to get it all out.

I am a bit new to this...

I have been reading much on calibrating speakers and subs. My setup is a 5.1. the AV is a Denon 2807, the sub being a SVS PB12-Plus, with Ascend CBM340se fronts and center, and 170se surrounds. In what I have been reading, it states to set the master volume on my receiver to 00db, which I believe to be 100% volume, is that correct? Also, I am reading that I should run the gain FULL UP on the sub, again 100% max volume. I am very confused as I feel that this is 100% volume and do not want to damage any equipment. I have figured out how to adjust the speaker levels on the AV, just want to know a little more on SPL how to and setting the sub up properly on the subs panel. Here is what I have read in a nutshell and a little more clarity or a link that better explains what to do would be great! I have a Galaxy CM-140 SPL meter. I also have for calibrating Avia and DVE.

Make sure your receiver/processor master volume is set at "00 dB" or other easy to remember level; it will become your "reference level", one very close to that intended for home theaters by Dolby Labs. And finally, set your subwoofer amp’s volume control. Note here, if you have a "PC-type" subwoofer put the volume/gain knob to no more than 1/4th to 1/3rd of the way up. If it's a separate pro-type amp (like the Samson amps we sell) for a CS-type subwoofer, run the gain FULL UP (it's a different sort of amp design after all and expects to be set up this way). It’s a good idea to check the subwoofer level control of your receiver before you begin the test tones. Keep the receiver's subwoofer output control to about 25% up or lower than "0 dB" (or say -6dB given a typical receiver channel limits of –12 dB to +12 dB) . This will allow your amp to work with the cleanest signal possible from your receiver, while still leaving plenty of downward adjustment you can use from your viewing position (using the remote). As the tones start, alternating, speaker to speaker (watching your sound meter now) set each speaker’s volume to 75 dB or 85dB (depending on your tone source), using the receiver’s channel controls. Not all test disks or receivers are the same when it comes to calibration tones however, if using a test DVD like Video Essentials should allow you to calibrate reference level at 75dB. Ovation's "Avia" DVD is recorded at a higher level to improve signal to noise ratios during calibration, so you need to measure instead to 85dB for all channels if you use it and not Video Essentials (discussion below, regarding a "boost" to your LFE still applies but you simply add the bump you want above and beyond 85dB, vice 75dB).

 

[DerekCV]

I'm pretty sure the 00dB isn't the recievers 100% volume... It is very loud, but not destrustive.

I'm going to be doing this very soon myself... never done it before...

 

[Greg Gable]

The 0 setting is just used so that when you have your system calibrated; 0 = Dolby reference volume(75db or set at 85db for the Avia disc) so you know when you play your system at -10db, this equals 10db below reference and so on... You can set the master volume wherever you want but zero makes the most sense. Just turn the sliders down on the speker level set up and then turn your master volume to zero and "sneak-up" in the 75db mark.

Most of us turn the gain to the half way mark on the sub; you can turn it wherever you want and adjust with the AVR.

 

[Alowe]

Thanks for clearing that up Greg!

Andy

 

[John Garcia]

Um, you have a 2807 which has the Audessey AUTO-CALIBRATION, why not run that first?

 

[Greg Gable]

Come on John; he wants to play with his set-up and have some fun!

 

[LanceJ]

deleted - finger hit wrong button!

 

[LanceJ]

Andrew: just be aware that when you set up your system using X volume level, when you listen below that level, due to the way the human hearing system operates (google "Fletcher-Munson curve") the frequency extremes i.e. upper treble but especially the lower bass frequencies can end up sounding rather muted. This is why so many people end up having to run their subs a little "hot" during many of their movie watching sessions without knowing why (and for some reason usually they admit to feeling guilty for doing this).

I would say 99% of receivers made before around 1990 always included loudness buttons that when pushed, activated a special tone control circuit that boosted the bass & treble frequencies most people are not as sensitive to (exact frequencies varied from brand to brand) at lower volume levels. But as the volume was increased, on most better designed receivers this circuit reduced its effect until at a predetermined volume setting it basically turned itself off. It wasn't perfect since the manufacturer obviously didn't know what type of speaker, specifically its sensitivity, the customer was using but overall it helped a lot to make music/HT/whatever more enjoyable to listen to....because you could actually *hear* everything properly at all listening levels.

Fortunately I've noticed loudness circuits are coming back slowly, though a lot of high end gear lack them since many audiophiles are worried about the (inconsequential IMO) added distortion they can add, or that it is some how "messing" with the musician's intentions. Well to me, if you can't hear their intentions, that is definitely a form of fully (in)audible distortion!

But this is what I'm am not so sure about: do loudness circuits also apply their effects to an A/V receiver's LFE/subwoofer output? That's easy to discover though. Just turn it on at a low volume level & see if the sub's bass output changes.

So personally I recommend setting up the system at the average volume YOU regularly listen at.

 

[Alowe]

Thanks, I decided to do something in the middle as far as volume. Regualr and movie level of sound. Seems pretty good. Watched Nascar and Hulk yesterday and both were ~15 dB in difference, both were good.

Andrew