Where is the best info for building a DIY Sonosub?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Westly T, Feb 3, 2001.

  1. Westly T

    Westly T Second Unit

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    Where is the best info for building a DIY Sonosub (46" tall, 16" in diam.)I'm looking to try and build an sonosub. Where can I find good instructions on how to make one that is closer to the SVS in diameter? I'd like to buy a SVS 16-46CS. I keep looking but find only bits of info here and there mostly for VERY large diameter ones. Perhaps I'm just reading the wrong posts, but if someone can steer me to the info it would really help. As long as it's 6' or less tall it's ok.
    ... I found some money, and having just completed a big project, I decided to be lazy and just order an SVS. I ended up getting the SV16-46PC for ease of installation and no fan noise [​IMG] .
     
  2. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Wes, you do realize that the "16" in the SVS model number 16-46 refers to its TUNING frequency, not its width, right?
    Anyhow, to start, you have to define some parameters:
    1. Budget - how much can you spend?
    2. Performance design/expectations - F3? FB? Want it to be able to handle demanding LFE a la dts Haunting at close to reference levels? Emphasis on music or HT?
    3. Form factor - 16" wide tube, less than 6 feet tall.
    4. Driver - more than likely it has to be 12" wide or less based on 16" wide sonotube. You could try to squeeze in a 15" driver, but it'd be quite a challenge. Depending on the budget/performance specs, you're looking at a Shiva, Stryke, Mass 2012, Dayton's 12" driver. If you're looking for SVS performance, you need their super-duper 12" driver. But if you had the money, the Mass 2012 would work best for small enclosure size under 4 ft^3.
    (note, F3=low end 3dB break frequency where SPL is 3dB less than the average SPL for the frequency response; FB= tuned frequency of the box/enclosure).
    Once you figure out how much performance you can afford, state them, you're on your way to DIY subs. You'll have figured out what driver you'll use, and then decide on the FB and F3 for it, and make the enclosure the right height including the porting inside on the top side.
    Become more specific, and you'll get better answers and assistance.
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    PatCave ; HT Pix ; Gear ; Sunosub I + III ; DVDs ; LDs
     
  3. James Mudler

    James Mudler Stunt Coordinator

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    I am starting to build a sonosub and needed similar information to start my project. I noticed the small link on "DIY and Advanced HT Topics Area" page right below the better cables.com advertisment. It was a big help.
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    Luke, I'm your father
     
  4. Westly T

    Westly T Second Unit

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    Patrick Sun, yes I know what the 16 in the model number refers to, but as you can see from the specifications from their web page below, it is also 16" in diam.
    SVS “Cylinder - Series”
    Model 16-46CS
    o Power handling, 350 watts RMS. 4 Ohm load.
    o 16 Hz tuning point
    o +/- 3 dB 16 Hz-100 Hz
    o 46" tall, 16" in diam.
    As far as price, I was thinking of getting the SVS Model 16-46PC, but $825 is too much for me now. I'm thinking somewhere around a $450 cap in price. I'm hoping to get a used monoblock amp for around $100 to use for the power on the DIY. Getting full range bass response down to at least 20Hz and having a musical subwoofer are also a must. I want it to be as flat to 20HZ as possible, and this is more important then it being overly loud. I'd like to feel it, but don't want to go deaf from playing it at dangerous levels. Where I live the neighbors can't hear anything even when I crank it, so that's is not an issue. I have a very tall roof that is on about a 35 - 40% slant form about 19' to about 29' high (all these numbers are a guess and most likely don't add up, but I don't feel like doing the math when it's all a guess any way). You can see the room in the photos on my HT link above. I'm using Magnepan 1.6QR's for my music mains, and Polk for HT.
    James Mudler, thanks, I missed that. I'm checking it out now.
     
  5. Patrick Sun

    Patrick Sun Moderator
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    Your best bet would be the Mass 2012 driver if you are married to the 16" width. The only problem is that it doesn't "sim" well. TerryC is a better authority on this particular driver. You have to see how much volume you'll have with a 16" wide tube 39" tall (3" for endcap thickness, 4" for the legs), and then figure out the port needed for tuning it to 16Hz while keeping it inside the tube.
    I just plowed a Shiva driver through LspCAD, and I am pretty sure this isn't what you want.
    Using a Shiva driver, tuned to 16Hz, you are left with 3.98 ft^3 and a 4" port 29" long. Its F3 is 29Hz, so that kills your 20-100Hz +/- 3dB requirement.
    Raise the tune to 18Hz, you're left with F3 at 25Hz, a 22.3" long 4" port, internal volume 4.02 ft^3.
    Raise the tune to 20Hz, you're left with F3 at 22.6Hz, a 17.5" long 4" port, internal volume 4.06 ft^3.
    --
    If you increased the internal volume to around 4.98 ft^3, you get the following schemes (47" tall internal height of 16" wide port - total sub height around 54"):
    Using a Shiva driver, tuned to 16Hz, you are left with 5 ft^3 and a 4" port 22.7" long. Its F3 is 27Hz, so that kills your 20-100Hz +/- 3dB requirement.
    Raise the tune to 18Hz, you're left with F3 at 21Hz, a 17.3" long 4" port, internal volume 5 ft^3.
    Raise the tune to 20Hz, you're left with F3 at 19.9Hz, a 13.5" long 4" port, internal volume 5.02 ft^3. (the group delay is a little long in the 20-25Hz range). But if you want the Shiva route, this would be the one to go with.
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    PatCave ; HT Pix ; Gear ; Sunosub I + III ; DVDs ; LDs
     

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