SVS PB-1ISD Connection.... (1 Viewer)

[John Doh]

I am going to run the subwoofer cable into the wall, over the ceiling and back down the rear wall to connect to the PB-1ISD. What is the best solution for connecting it to my HK AVR230?

I am looking at a blown-up image of the rear of this sub, and there are high level inputs/outputs and low level input/outputs. What it all mean? I have never owned a sub with this many connection options before, so be gentle. My current sub for my old HTIB has one plug, that's all! Help!

 

[JohnMW]

Have Kurt @ Blue Jeans Cable make you a Canare LV-77S or Belden 1695a subwoofer cable. You can pick up a single hole wall plate @ Home Depot or Lowes and enlarge it for the Canare RCA to fit thru.

http://www.bluejeanscable.com/store/.../subwoofer.htm

 

[John Robert]

The all "John" thread...

You will simply connect the subwoofer output from your HK to the low level (or "LFE") input on your sub.

The previous poster's (Hi John!) source is a good one. You can also get inexpensive sub cables at accessories4less.com

 

[John Doh]

Thanks for the information Johnses!

 

[Mike_Morgan]

I ran a length of RG6 coax from my equiment closet, through the crawl space, over to the sub location and terminated it with F to RCA screw on adapters. It is a REAL cheap alternative to the custom made cables, and I'd say nearly as good. FWIW

Mike

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

I'd say nearly as good. FWIW

For a sub, I’d say as good.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

P.S. Mike, you're not suppost to include an equipment list in your signature. See # 6 at this link.

 

[Bob Kavanaugh]

For a sub, I’d say as good.

I dunno about that. My experience with F to RCA adapters and runs of coax for sub cables has been bad. Look out for buzzing if you go this route. I'm not sure where the buzzing comes from, a loose connection somewhere in the line though.

On the other hand, if you get lucky and have a tight fit, it can't be beat.

 

[Mike_Morgan]

Thanks for the heads up Wayne. I didn't even notice that. I deleted it.

Mike

 

[Wayne A. Pflughaupt]

Mike,

What you might do is have the Forum create a web page for you. You can list your gear there (even post some pictures) and then use the link in your sig. Here’s the link – the icon for it is located on the main index page as “theaters.”
http://www.hometheaterforum.com/htfo...rm&userid=5886

Bob,

Look out for buzzing if you go this route. I'm not sure where the buzzing comes from, a loose connection somewhere in the line though.

The terminations make or break coaxial connections. It’s been estimated that something like 80% of all coaxial cables are terminated improperly. If you can’t afford a first-class “F” crimper (don’t waste your money on one that costs less than $50), go with twist-on connectors. I’ve had good luck with them.

Regards,
Wayne A. Pflughaupt

 

[Stephen Hopkins]

I wouldn't quite rule out anything below $50. The Paladin 8000 crimp handle is available online for around $22 and another $21 for the appropriate die. I was able to get all the tooling i needed (Crimp handle, die, 3 blade stripper) to build Canare 5CFB based component, sub, and digital coax cables for under $60 (compared to around $250 for the same type tools from Canare). Although the canare stripper is alot better, the paladin gets the job done at around 10% the price.

 

[Bob Kavanaugh]

Cool. Thanks for the info guys!