Rotel Amps

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by Joe e h, Feb 27, 2002.

  1. Joe e h

    Joe e h Stunt Coordinator

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    I am considering the purchase of a Rotel RMB-1095. However I have been reading threads and hearing reports about problems with the amps tripping breakers.

    So I am looking some input on how many of you have Rotel amps. How you like them. Which Pre/Pro you are using and most of all any problems. I am really interested in this breaker tripping problem.

    Thanks

    Joe
     
  2. Legairre

    Legairre Supporting Actor

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    I have the 1095. I could go on for hours about how great it is. Instead I'll just say it is simply my favorite piece of HT gear. Until the amp arrived my 61" RPTV was #1. Now the amp get's that honor. I have mine on a dedicated 20 amp circuit. Even though the manual says it's power consumption is 800 watts. I contacted Rotel and was told it actually draws around 1600 watts. Not a single problem. Put it on a dedicated circuit. Think about it. If a 20 amp circuit delivers 2400 watts and you already have 1500 watts of HT gear on that circuit. Add any high current power amp and you risk tripping the breaker. I've been told for safety reasons you really shouldn't exceed 1920(20%) watts on a 20 amp circuit. You should always leave 20% free on a any circuit. All and all I LOVE my 1095.
     
  3. Dennis T

    Dennis T Extra

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    Hey Legairre - how about some updated picks. Would love to drool over that new 1095 of yours[​IMG]
     
  4. Bruce N

    Bruce N Second Unit

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    I have had my 1095 for over a year and a half. I love it. I've had absolutely no trouble with it. I only wish it had a remote trigger option.
    There's only one person I know of that posted about a tripping breaker problem and that was due to a defective breaker NOT a faulty 1095.
    Bruce
     
  5. Dean_Sol

    Dean_Sol Auditioning

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    I also have a RMB-1095 and RB-1090 (2x385) plugged into the same 20amp dedicated circuit along with all of my other HT gear and have never had any problems with the circuit tripping. My 1095 does have a 12v trigger input. However, the 1090 does not (easily fixed with a switched outlet).

    These along with my AVM20 were probably the best HT investments I have made.

    Dean
     
  6. Karl Englebright

    Karl Englebright Stunt Coordinator

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    Has anybody listened to the 1075(120X5)? I have a fairly small HT and don't think I would ever need the extra wattage of the 1095. I'm curious if anybody has compared both. I could definitely use the extra 800 (for another 2 channels or powered sub) but my top priority is sound quality. I'll probably get an amp first and use my receiver as a pre/pro and later on upgrade to an actual pre/pro...
     
  7. Alex Prosak

    Alex Prosak Supporting Actor

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    Joe,

    If you're referring to Jeremy's threads regarding tripping the breaker, his problem has been solved. It wasn't with the amp but with the the new dedicated theater wiring that had been installed.
     
  8. Joe e h

    Joe e h Stunt Coordinator

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    I did see where Jeremy had a defective breaker. I do know of one person that just got a 1095 and had to return it because it tripped the breakers as soon as it powered on.

    I seen another post, I think it was here where someone else had problems. However I have also seen tons of positive post. I just want to cover the topic.
     
  9. george king

    george king Supporting Actor

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    Karl,

    I have the 1075 and absolutely love it. It is more than enough for my HT since I have a small room, don't listen at high levels, and have efficient speakers.

    The 1075 sounds very similar to the 1095. There is a slight loss of detail and depth in the 1075, but to my ears at least, the loss is very slight, but if you listen closely noticable. It is the classic audiophile problem - the last 10% of detail etc, is 90% of the cost of the item. The 1075 is an amazing value - you get great performance for a reasonable price. You will not however get amazing performance - for that you have to spend the money to get the 1095.

    Hope this helps.
     
  10. Karl Englebright

    Karl Englebright Stunt Coordinator

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    Thanks George, it does help.

    My plan is to buy an amp that will take me through a pre/pro upgrade (say to a Rotel 1066 or Outlaw 950) without wondering if I'm missing something. On the other hand for the price of the 1095 I could get the 1075 and go a long ways towards a SVS sub. Decisions, decisions...
     
  11. Mark C.

    Mark C. Supporting Actor

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    I did a lot of tests between the 1095 and the 1075 and just couldn't notice much of a difference for my listening levels. The 1075 is a great value. I think the only place the 1095 outperforms the 1075 is when you're talking about reserve power, or headroom.
     
  12. Karl Englebright

    Karl Englebright Stunt Coordinator

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    Looks like I'll have to ask the dealer to set both up for a demo. My budget is about $3K and the 1075/Outlaw 950/SVS sub option is sounding pretty good right now.
     
  13. Lee-c

    Lee-c Second Unit

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    It seems the problem is not so much with the RMB-1095 tripping breakers, but it's really a matter
    of what all else one has hooked up to the same circuit. You have to take into account the t.v.
    as well as all the other stereo gear. The thing many people do is upgrade their circuit from
    15 amp to 20 amp.
    I have a question about wire for a 20 amp breaker. I was looking around in
    the cellar trying to see what kind of wire is running to the living room (where my
    stereo gear, t.v., etc. is located) and the wire that appears to be going to the
    living room says the following on it "Bristol 14/3 with ground, Type NM-B (I think
    it's a "B", could be the number 8 after NM- ), 600 volts, U.L."
    I was wondering if any electricians could comment on if this is within the safe margins for
    use with a 20 amp breaker? I realize it's not ideal, my preference is for 10 gauge wire,
    but it may not be convenient to change the wire for some time. And I just want to make sure
    if I upgrade that line to a 20 amp breaker and put in a 20 amp rated specification outlet that it
    will be safe to use the wiring I listed above.
    Thanks for any information you fellows can help out with. [​IMG]
     
  14. Joe e h

    Joe e h Stunt Coordinator

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    Lee you may not use 14/3 for a 20 amp circuit. The 14 is only rated for 15 maps max. If you want to go to a 20 amp circuit you must have 12 minium. you can run 10 if you want, but it is not required.

    I am running 10, just in case I ever upgrade to a Cinepro amp. If you are looking for cost 250' of 10ga will run you around $40. This is in the midwest so prices may very in your area.
     
  15. Lee-c

    Lee-c Second Unit

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    Thanks for the info., Joe e h. [​IMG]
    I noticed other wires running along the ceiling in the cellar that were marked 12/2. I assume
    that 12/2 is the correct 12 gauge wire for a 20 amp line?
    At this point I'm not sure what wire type runs to the particular outlet I'm interested in. Is there
    an easy way to tell if the wire connected to the outlet I want to upgrade to a 20 amp specification
    outlet is connected to 14/3 or 12/2 wire? I mean, if there isn't enough loose wire that I
    can easily pull some wire out of the outlet's hole in the wall to read the labeling on the
    wire insulation, is there another easy way to tell if it's 14/3 or 12/2 wire?
    Thanks for any help you can give. [​IMG]
     
  16. Sihan Goi

    Sihan Goi Second Unit

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    I also have a Rotel RMB-1095 and love it. It might not be the best amp in the world, or even the best amp I've heard, but at its price point, it performs extemely remarkably, and would make a good addition to any home theater save the most expensive ones. With [email protected] or [email protected] on tap, and high quality parts, it'll handle all but the most demanding of speakers. I have mine driving a pair of PSB Stratus Goldi's, which are pretty huge speakers with a nominal impedance of 4ohms, and there are no problems there. My prepro is a basic TagMcLaren AV32R and I haven't experienced any of the power tripping problems. However I'm on 240V AC mains so I don't know if that makes any difference.

    All in all, I'd recommend this amp to anyone with a budget that can accomodate it.
     
  17. Luke_Khuc

    Luke_Khuc Stunt Coordinator

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    hi guys,

    you are making me nervous. i have bought a rotel 1095 recently and it will get here soon. do i really have to have the circuit breaker (what the heck is it anyway? do you mean the line conditioner?) when using the amp? or the amp is going to explode by itself? seriously, i am not familiar with this whole idea. could you give me some links so i can read some information it? thank you.
     
  18. Kevin. W

    Kevin. W Screenwriter

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  19. Dean_Sol

    Dean_Sol Auditioning

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    Luke,

    I wouldn't worry too much. I don't think it should be a problem with the 1095. Even if it does trip, your amp won't blow up. It just shuts down because there is no current. Also, I am not sure if they increased the power supply in the 1095 as they did with the 1090. Also, depending on how old your 20 amp circuit breakers are, it may not be a problem.

    l8r

    dean
     

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