Lutron Spacer Installation 101 (Rev. 1/17/06 - Adding IR Emitters) (1 Viewer)

[Jay Mitchosky]

Because they would be in physically separate boxes you would need the remote master that I've pictured above. The travellers would just be really short.

Do you have a closet or utility room nearby? It will look somewhat unsightly to have a two gang box with another separate beside (or above or below) it. The dimmers don't need to be in dedicated "equipment room" per se. They can just be out of sight somewhere that the travellers can reach. You would be buying the same components regardless. And if you're under construction throughout the whole basement the extra cable to a closet or such will be about $2. That stuff is incredibly cheap.

Another consideration is this. With only two separate zones scene management, where the wall mounted master is the required solution, is not such a big deal. You may also opt to just run the two Spacer dimmers as planned and control them individually without the master. They respond to IR independently. Or, if you decide to relocate the dimmers to a remote location, you might want to consider wiring another one or two zones to maximize your flexibility in the theater.

 

[Adam Gregorich]

Breaking off the fins DOES derate the dimmers. Here is the derating table for Lutron dimmers (inc. Spacer):

Type:____________1 Side Broken_________2 Sides Broken
600W Inc/Hal_________500W___________________400W
1000W Inc/Hal________800W___________________650W
600VA, 450W MLV____500VA, 375W___________400VA, 300W
1000VA, 800W MLV___800VA, 650W___________650VA, 500W
500W ELV____________ 450W___________________400W

When you are ganging multiple dimmer together, you have to break off the heat syncs so the dimmers don't touch and form a physical heat bridge, causing the dimmers to overheat. They heat syncs are needed for the rated wattage--if you remove some of the cooling capacity, you reduce the wattage.

 

[Jay Mitchosky]

Great info. In retrospect I should have left the outer fins intact but no biggie.

 

[Andrew Pratt]

I can tell you that neither the Spacer I had before and the Maestro unit I have now will respond to bounced pronto codes either. Its a minor inconvienience to have to point the pronto at the rear wall (or there abouts) but for now I haven't bothered to do anything about it. I'll be interested in how you solve it for you.

 

[Jay Mitchosky]

Very narrow band. Which is the only immediate design flaw I see to the Spacer system. Considering that in most applications the wall switch will not be in plain view.

Next time someone is installing a Spacer please test to see if it will receive remote commands from the rear through its plastic case. That is the only way I could see a repeater/bug system working. Otherwise it's "over the shoulder".

 

[Bobby C]

Better than throwing a shoe at the switch.

 

[Ken-Ha]

Jay, thanks for a timely post. I am still debating between GE and Spacer System.
Is each of your zone is connected to a breaker in main breaker panel or all the zones are connected to just one breaker?
P.S.: Is this how you wire the lighting: Circuit Breaker(s) to light fixtures to dimmers, then dimmers to RMWC.
Thanks
Ken

 

[Jay Mitchosky]

Yes. But the connection between the dimmers and RWMC is simply an IR traveller. There is no physical connection otherwise. Rip the RWMC out of the wall and the dimmers still work. It just tells them remotely to turn on or off, and remembers their individual settings for scene recall. The RWMC is at no point part of the lighting circuits. It is connected to power only to be able to send the IR commands, light the scene button indicators, and maintain its internal memory.

 

[ScottATL]

Thanks Jay, you sure know how to complicate things for me. I was going to go with X10 but have heard it's unreliable. This seems like what I need, although, adding sophistication to another level. I just placed the order for my lumber and is being delivered on Wednesday. I'm trying to do a lot of the work myself, and need a "Building Home Theaters For Dummies" book. Write ups like this help clarify a lot and give me the ideas I need to save the money by doing the work myself.

 

[Andrew Pratt]

Scott if you can I'd HIGHLY recomend not going with X10. I've got several X10 units around the house controling lighting etc. and while it works most of the time its not nearly as reliable as the Lutron gear.

 

[Jay Mitchosky]

You heard right. X10 is based on relatively weak signals being transmitted along your electrical line. All you need is one noisy appliance and that signal will get lost. Or if you are trying to control things on two different phases it becomes problematic and you have to bridge the two blah blah blah. X10 is great for really basic stuff but it has limitations.

 

[Ken-Ha]

Jay, much appreciated for your help.
The problem I run into right now is that I am planning for 17 light fixtures, which includes 2 strings (one is 50 feet and one is 14 feet) of line voltage rope lights. The electical code in Alberta only allows 12 outlets (combination of light fixtures and receptacles) per breaker. Although my total wattage consumption is about 1100W but the problem is I am way over with the allowed outlets. If I can feed the 4 zones with two circuit breakers from the main panel then I should be OK to go. The problem with GE is it only allow 1 circuit breaker per GE box (Please correct me if I am wrong on this).

Thanks

 

[Adam Gregorich]

What is GE?

 

[Jay Mitchosky]

Ken

I'm a bit confused also - this is the Lutron Spacer product. You should approach your local lighting expert and ask what is possible. It may require a transition to GRAFIK Eye. Check Lutron's site for local dealers.

Are you in Calgary? Smart Home Theater Systems are pretty knowledgable. Maybe they can offer some advice. I don't see how different breakers will make a difference however.

 

[Adam Gregorich]

Ken-
Do you want all 17 fixtures to have their own light switch? That seems overkill to me. Maybe put all the wall sconces on one switch, the overhead lights on another, some accent lights on a third, one of your rope lights on a forth, and the other on the fifth. Although you will need to double check, I am willing to bet the code is outlets or lightswitches, not the individual fixtures.

 

[Bobby C]

I imagine it is GRAFIX Eye, another Lutron system.

 

[Ken-Ha]

Adam, you are correct. That is what I intended to do.
Zone 1 - 4 sconces
Zone 2 - 4 pot lights with the rope lights under the stage lid.
Zone 3 - 7 pot lights for the seating area. These pot lights also lit up the center part of the HT.
Zone 4 - 3 strings of rope lights (hot wired, i.e. no receptacles)

Now Since GE Control can only receive 1 live wire(power source, either a 15A or 20A)from the main breaker box therefore this one power source wire will feed all the lighting fixtures in all four zones, Right?
(1 circuit breaker --> GE --> Zone 1, 2, 3 and 4.)
Do you think I have the right concept?

Jay,
do you think this will work if I decide to go with the Spacer System?
1st circuit breaker supplies power to Zone 1 (lights and Zone #1 Spacer Dimmer and Zone 2 (lights and Zone #2 Spacer Dimmer).
2nd circuit breaker will supply both Zone 3 (lights and Zone #3 Spacer Dimmer) and Zone 4 (lights and Zone #4 Spacer Dimmer). Then this circuit breaker also supply power to the RWMC. Of course I need two travellers from the RWMC to the Spacer Dimmers.

Thanks in advance
Ken

Thanks in advance
Ken

 

[Adam Gregorich]

I think you have the right concept on both counts.

 

[Ken-Ha]

Adam, thanks for helping me to clear this up.
I just have couple more 2x4s to put together then it's the wiring stage.

Ken

 

[Adam Gregorich]

Very cool. Would love to see some pics if you have them!