Drew, I just received my test CD and haven't had too much time to play with it. A quick overview (just working on the low end, 20-80Hz)up to my crossover point: What I thought sounded decent in my HT measures like garbage:frowning: . I made me think that my RS meter was bad...
Is it slowly getting better? Yes. Will you want to spend more time than you should tweaking? Yes. I wanted to see how things looked before spending $ on a BFD. My first issue now is to see what I can do about a null or 2 before trying to tame the peaks. I haven't really done anything with the rest of the freq. range after reading a white paper by Meridian on their Room Correction system and how it works below 250Hz and doesn't bother with anything beyond that.
I've had my copy for months and it takes the RS meter to another level with it's corrected test tones.
I begin by calibrating levels using my pre/pro's internal pink noise, matching the levels of all five speakers to each other and then to the sub.
I then set my mains to LARGE, SUB=OFF and adjust the pre/pro's volume while playing the corrected 1kHz tone until the meter reads 80dB. This gives me a reference off of which all other frequencies will be based.
Keeping the mains set to LARGE, SUB=OFF I run through all of the corrected tones to see how my speakers are doing in my room at the listening position but, more importantly, to see where they're rolling off in the bass region. This happens to be somewhere between 31.5-40Hz (where they're down more than 3dB)
Given my taste in music I can play them without a sub and not miss a beat. For movies however I cross them over at 60hz in my pre/pro.
I now set them to SMALL, SUB=YES, PHASE=0. I run through the bass tones again, 20-100Hz and plot the results.
I then play through those same tones moving my adjustable phase control 1 tick at a time until I get the flattest response from the sub, paying particular attention to the 60Hz tone as that is where it crosses over to my mains. I then double check the levels using pink noise just be sure they're not off due to any change in phase on the sub.
This results in the most accurate calibration I've ever had in my system.
I have found it that the RS meter is more sensitive to where I stand while trying to read it on the high frequencies. Compared to my Stereophile Test CD3's 1/3 octave WARBLE tones, the Rives disc is much more picky with it's steady tones. The warble tones, if you've never heard them, sound more like a pulsating tone rather than the steady, constant tone on the Rives disc. The Stereophile disc's tones aren't corrected for the RS meter though and use track indexing for the different frequencies rather than completely separate tracks.