BluePrint Drivers gone?? (1 Viewer)

[Brian Bunge]

Thomas,

When I put in the 1x2 'X' on the internal panels I glued them down and nailed them with the 2" side down. I used this method more for convenience sake more than anything. I noticed you had the 1" side down and, IIRC, you used apoxy. Will my method affect the rigidity much?

Brian

 

[Seth_L]

Haven't actually weighed it. I'd guess ~160lbs. Remember the driver itself weighs ~50lbs. Built the cab in the basement, hand carried it empty up stairs to install the driver and PR's

It seems that from my estimates if I do double layer MDF (no bracing in calculations) that the sub will be 220lbs. Eeeeek!

Seth

 

[Cam S]

Seth, that is gonna be one hell of a heavyweight sub!!

 

[ThomasW]

Brian
With the Rava-Too I used quick-set epoxy because I couldn't easily get my brad nailer inside the cab. Normally I just use TiteBond II and just air-nail the braces in place. Mounting the oak the other direction won't make any difference.
Seth
Mass is good
If weight is an issue use the doubled apple or marine ply and good interior bracing. That will result in higher materials cost, but the weight will be a lot lower

 

[Seth_L]

Seth, that is gonna be one hell of a heavyweight sub!!

Cam,

That concerns me a quite a bit. I may go with a single layer of 3/4" marine grade plywood with steel angle iron bracing inside to try to lighten it up. I should be able to get it under 130lbs in that configuration.

Seth

 

[Seth_L]

Turns out I had a flaw in my calculations. Here are my weight estimates (less internal bracing)

single 3/4" MDF - 160lbs

single 3/4" Marine grade plywood - 135lbs

double 3/4" MDF - 240lbs

double 3/4" Marine grade plywood - 185lbs

Seth

 

[Brian Bunge]

Thanks Thomas! That's what I wanted to hear. Since the cabinet is 21" cubed internally there was not an issue with getting the gun (or my whole head!) inside. My dad has a Paslode finish nailer and this sucker is awesome. It's a bit loud compared to air powered nailer, but it sure is nice not having to deal with a compressor, which is even louder.

One thing I have noticed is that the Titebond glue seems to set up quicker than the Elmer's wood glue I normally use.

Brian

 

[Greg Monfort]

>Mass is good

====

Been there, done that and it has its uses, but for the size cab and components being considered here I don't see the point. The CB cab design is actually larger and has considerably more excursion capability, but is still sufficiently rigid using a single 3/4" BB cab and one vented shelf brace.

GM

 

[Robert_Gaither]

Thanks Brian.

When it comes to cabinet mass, heavier the better but make certain you can fit it thru the doors and hallways of your home or you might be disappointed.

 

[Cam S]

how would you go about movine a 200+ lb subwoofer, that has a sub on the bottom, and 4 Pr's on the sides?? you couldn't use a dolly, and there isn't much to grab onto. so what do ya do, aseemble exactly where it will be placed in your room?

 

[Greg Monfort]

Being a believer that bottom firing subs should have a solid baseplate, moving them with a handtruck is a piece-o-cake. A blanket or similar between the PR/handtruck is sufficient.
GM

 

[Seth_L]

how would you go about movine a 200+ lb subwoofer, that has a sub on the bottom, and 4 Pr's on the sides?? you couldn't use a dolly, and there isn't much to grab onto. so what do ya do, aseemble exactly where it will be placed in your room?

Cam,
I'm not building it the way you're envisioning. I'm not putting a downward firing cone and a PR on each side. I thought about it for all of 5 minutes before deciding against it. I'm going to put two PR's on a side mounted ancipodally (sp?) from the driver on the side. I don't believe this well present a problem. I'm also very likely to go with the 135lb design, not the 240lb design.
Seth

 

[Michael Do]

Good news! Just saw on PE board that they won't be raising the price.

 

[Cam S]

Haha, good choice Seth, your back will appreciate it!

 

[Cam S]

I have a question for all you electronic guys.

I have a Klipsch KSW-10 subwoofer, and it has a little LEDlight on the front of it that light sup green when it's on and red when it's off. Would I be able to duplicate this LED on/off light on the AVA250 plate amp?? If so, how owuld I go about doing it, and has anyone even done this before?

 

[Seth_L]

Good news! Just saw on PE board that they won't be raising the price.

What's PE and is there any word on availability?

Seth

 

[Jeffrey Noel]

Seth, PE is Parts Express(www.partsexpress.com). Many DIYers go over to the Parts Express Tech Talk forum to post and answer questions regarding DIY projects. Here is a link:
http://www.pesupport.com/cgi-bin/config.pl
The new owner, Bill, of Blueprint Drivers just posted that the prices will not be upped and that the web site will hopefully be updated tomorrow!

 

[Cam S]

Anyone know how to add that On/off LED to the AVA250 plate amp???

 

[Dustin B]

The AVA250 already has a green/red led. How you'd pull that lead off and wire it to a different location though I don't know.

 

[Cam S]

hmm, thanks Dustin, I'll have to keep looking about that.

BTW, has anyone experienced the Tinsel Leads of the Shiva/Tempests slapping against the cone of the sub?? I have heard some poeple complainging about that and would like to know how to fix it (if it happens) on my Shiva when it arrives.