Best prices for Salamander Archetype Racks?

Discussion in 'Archived Threads 2001-2004' started by erikk, Jan 21, 2002.

  1. erikk

    erikk Stunt Coordinator

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    Well I'm in the midst of a MAJOR HT overhaul now that I moved into a new apartment. I'm getting a projector and bunch of other new stuff and I figured now would be a good time to get a better rack that actually has spaces for the stuff I own vs the 2 or more components per shelf I have now.

    I really like the Salamander Archetype 5 series. I was wondering if anyone knew a good place to get them. I was looking at them over at audioadvisor.com and I liked the pricing on the standard ones ($150) but they're out of stock and since they are "while supplies last" I was wondering if anyone knew another place to get them cheap?
     
  2. Myram

    Myram Second Unit

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    You could just build one yourself and save a lot of money on the process. I built my own modeled after the Type 20(I think) and it saved me about $400 from retail. They are very easy racks to build and when you are done they look everybit as good as the real thing.

    You can see mine at the link below.

    Good Luck
     
  3. Max Knight

    Max Knight Supporting Actor

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    You may want to try http://www.audioadvisor.com. I bought an archetype rack off their clearance page for pretty cheap. You may also want to build your own as suggested.
    [edited to reflect correct link]
    -Max
     
  4. Stephen Teffner

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    Max; that is www.audioadvisor.com. Audioadvisors is a totally different company. All the stuff that they have is backordered anyway. I just built one myself this weekend, cause I didn't want to wait.
    Stephen T.
     
  5. Jonathan_M

    Jonathan_M Stunt Coordinator

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    Eric,

    Do you have a Tweeter store located near you? They carry Salamander. Also, there is a local (to me) hi-fi store that I got my Salamander Synergy rack from that had a few Archetypes around. If you're interested, I can give you their number and you can call them directly.

    Jonathan
     
  6. Alex F.

    Alex F. Second Unit

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    Many high-end audio shops sell Salamander products. Check those in your area.
     
  7. erikk

    erikk Stunt Coordinator

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    Guess a couple of you didn't realize that I was looking at Audioadvisor all along and only didn't order from them because they are backordered and I wasn't sure if they were ever getting stock in since the item is "while supplies last".

    I talked to someone at audioadvisor and learned that they will get them back in stock and since noone here knew of any other good place to get them as cheap or cheaper I just went ahead and placed the order through them and I'll wait to get it when they get stock in.

    Thanx for you help. I would build it myself but living in an apartment and not having ready access to the tools and workshop to do it in makes it not worth the effort for me.
     
  8. Bruce N

    Bruce N Second Unit

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    Erik, I got a good deal on my Archetype stuff from Frank Conger at the Audio Buys that used to be in Fairfax. They moved to Manassas and I haven't been to their new store, nor am I sure if Frank is still with them. They ordered it right from Salamander, took about a week and a half to get it in the store.
    http://www.audiobuysinc.com/
    Bruce
     
  9. Kevin C Brown

    Kevin C Brown Producer

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    Myram and Stephen- Where do you get the bolts and screw-thread-bars for the DIY versions? Any hardware store would have stuff like that?

    Thanks!
     
  10. John Tillman

    John Tillman Supporting Actor

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    I went for the Archetype 5 series with an extension kit and drawer. Nice stuff [​IMG].
    Kevin:
     
  11. Stephen Teffner

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    erikk; doh' sorry must have just skipped over that in your question. Sorry.

    Kevin: You can get the stuff at Home Depot or Lowes. They have the allthread,nuts and rubber washers(plumbing section) in different sizes. Usually use around 5/8 inch or even 1/2 inch depending on what you're putting on it. When you have everything tightened up its pretty sturdy. I built a 5 shelf this weekend with only 3 supports and the total cost was about 65$ max.

    Stephen.
     
  12. Myram

    Myram Second Unit

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    Home Depot was what I used, all it is is 5/8" threaded rod, and matching nuts and washers. You paint them with a flat black paint and you're on your way. If you go to the Salmander website, they have blueprints online that show everything in detail....that is where I learned that 5/8" stock is required.
     
  13. Nathan Hamstra

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    I have a quick, vaguely off-topic question for you DIY'ers. Are there any online sort of resources you used in building the rack, or did you just sort of wing it?
     
  14. Ken Smith

    Ken Smith Stunt Coordinator

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    You could go directly to Salamander"s website at mander.com and order exactly what you want from them. Unless your dealer is giving you a discount this would be my choice. Don't forget to figure in no sales tax, but then the shipping charges would have to be considered also.
     
  15. Stephen Teffner

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    Sure; just go to the DIY section of this forum and type in flexy or flexi. There should be some people who put websites up with instructions. It's a pretty basic concept really.

    Stephen Teffner
     
  16. Ed_A

    Ed_A Stunt Coordinator

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    Myram,
    Nice site! and it gives a lot of good info. That rack you built looks great. I'm putting one together myself and I would like to look pretty similar to yours. I had a few questions:
    How did you terminate the threaded rods into the top shelf? Since your TV sits on top of them I can't tell whether there's a bolt there or not. I would like mine to terminate flush with the top shelf, but don't know what the best way is to do that.
    Where did you get those end caps for the bottom of the rods? They look professional. Very nice. [​IMG]
    Approximately how much spacing did you leave between the end of the board to the edge of the rod hole at the corners? I'm trying to squeeze it out pretty close to the edges but don't know how much room to leave...right now I'm thinking about leaving just under one inch (7/8") from the edge of the rod/hole to the edge of the board.
    Thanks!
    Ed
     

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