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Subwoofer - Upgrade - General Q
20 replies to this topic
Posted March 22 2013 - 05:18 AM
I am curious about Subwoofers. What I mean is how do you pick out a good sub?
My room is small - 19x10. Ceilings are very high in this room, They arc to about 14'.
I'm currently using a Polk PSW10. I was watching The Fellowship of the Ring yesterday and the sub just couldn't keep up. It was rattling, but not the good kind.
I think I want to upgrade to something that can produce a rich sound w/o the rattle. I'm don't need something to shake the entire house either.
Any recommendations for upgrades would be great. My budget is around $300.
Posted March 22 2013 - 06:21 AM
I was avoiding this brand because of the warranty. The last time I looked they shipped you parts... I work in the computer field, but don't know anything about changing parts for a sub!
Posted March 22 2013 - 06:29 AM
Thanks! Do you have an opinion on the Infinity Primus PS410BK?
Posted March 22 2013 - 07:02 AM
I haven't personally used that one. Sam Chandler may be your best bet on that
Posted March 22 2013 - 08:54 AM
I'm subwoofer god? Ha...
It would help to know where the OP is. For $300, I'd peruse my local Craigslist and Ebay first. A new $300 sub today...is going to be a new $300 subwoofer next week.
But...the usual suspects...
BIC F12*/VK12/H100(BIC has three subwoofers that "are the same" in the H100/PL200/RTR Eviction. But the model number depends on what speaker package it went with...and goes with now...and if they have "extra" laying around)
Lava LSP12(or the 10)
The problem with <$300 is you really only have Lava, BIC and Dayton. Rock/paper/scissors.
Honorable mention is the Mordaunt Short 9 on A4L...till they are gone(whenever that happens).
Polk is not worth the money when you have the other 4 to consider.
*If it helps...HSU designed(helped design, whatever) the F12...and then BIC took that design into "every other" 12" they have. BIC doesn't hide the fact they went to HSU for help. HSU also helped Pinnacle design their Rhino line(which the Rhino is essentially the HSU ULS with even more power and a prettier cabinet).
Posted March 22 2013 - 10:40 AM
I see. I actually spoke to Polk today and they're sending me a new woofer for testing... so if Polk is going to do the same as BIC... then I might as well get the BIC.
I guess I was mistaken about the warranty difference.
Posted March 22 2013 - 11:17 AM
Read the fine print on subwoofer(really any speaker for that matter) before you purchase...
Some manufacturers will send you a replacement part with a pre-paid return. Other manufacturers require you to mail them the bad part(on your dime) and then they'll swap once they have the dead one. Still others will require you to drive(or ship it) it to a repair facility whole.
Pick and choose your subwoofer/speakers according to those guidelines as well.
Posted March 22 2013 - 11:31 AM
I had no idea! I'm going to try the new Polk woofer they're sending. I made sure it is a NEW part.
Once I receive it I'll do some testing. Is there a guide you'd recommend for sub setup?
Posted March 22 2013 - 11:36 AM
There are several. Do you have an Audyssey capable receiver?
Posted March 22 2013 - 11:56 AM
I do not. I have an analog SPL meter.
Posted March 22 2013 - 12:06 PM
For us to offer you guidance in setting up your sub...
What is your configuration?
What crossover point(s)?
What are your sources?
And Dave was being "in general" as Audyssey is only used by Onkyo/Integra, Denon/Marantz and NAD. "Everybody" has some form of room correction(which is what Dave was really asking).
Posted March 22 2013 - 12:17 PM
Setup:Sony STRDH520.5.1Crossover = I have it to 80 I believe. Source = Bdp-s590, PS3, STB
Posted March 22 2013 - 01:36 PM
I assume Sony's room correction(on that model at least) only allows one crossover.
80 is the "general norm" on AVR with only one crossover to choose(being your other 5 are only given a choice of large/small).
Since the 520 more than likely offers little to none in EQ for the subwoofer(which there are no <$400 AVR, outside Denon, with anything for the sub anyway)...the best option is finding the best place in the room and being done with it.
By the way, nothing beats proper subwoofer placement...not even "uber-God" Audyssey XT32.
Posted March 22 2013 - 02:59 PM
I see. The receiver allows a crossover for each set.
Front = 70
Center = 70
Surrounds = 100
Fronts = Monitor 30
Center = CS1
Surrounds = OWM3
I'll try to find a better place in the room and see if this works.
Posted March 25 2013 - 04:29 AM
I've tried moving the sub around the room and listening to where I think it sounds best. After that I adjusted the sub's volume and +/- level in the receiver. I used the analog Radio Shack SPL meter.
I set the receiver volume to the level in which we watch moves (vol 30).
I set the SPL to 60hz, slow response and C weighted for the sub and measured to around 0 level.
The other 5 speakers I set the SPL to 70 slow response and C weighted.
I have a lot of them ending up a +4 or +5, but not sure if this is normal or not.
Anyway, the sub is still rattling even in other places.
Posted March 25 2013 - 08:21 AM Best Answer
Cool. Glad you got it sorted. The subwoofer(hence why 2 is de rigueur) placement is the hardest of your 5(or 7, or 9) to pinpoint. Typically I spend twice as much time on the subwoofer as the other 5/7/9 combined.
Posted March 28 2013 - 04:08 AM
I would not be too worried about replacing parts on the sub woofer. You really only have a few pieces, all very easy to replace with probably nothing more then a screwdriver.The amp plate, or the driver(s) typically just get screwed in place. If it's the housing or port that is rattling, then you can just move the driver(s) and amp to the new housing, or locate where the noise is coming from and secure it, glue it down
Posted March 28 2013 - 05:47 AM
Yeah, I will give it a shot if the replacement woofer is still doing that. Thanks for the info.
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