Pics of my (almost) completed sonosub - somewhat unique design (1 Viewer)

[Dave George]

Pics can be viewed here: http://www.angelfire.com/film/dcg/sonopics.html
As you can see, I've got the sonotube for each tempest oriented horizontaly rather than vertically, one over the other, with mdf panels on the ends. I'm not a huge fan of the "water heater" design (though some of you have made some damn nice looking subs) and a box that big would be too heavy.
I'd be interested to hear your thoughts on this design and any recommendations on how to finish the sub.
Dave

 

[Micah Lloyd]

Well, that certainly increases the "WOW!!!" factor when friends see it for the first time! I think it's really clever. How do you have the top one supported above the bottom one? Is it resting right on top of it? Also, I'm curious: Are they identically tuned?

 

[Micah Lloyd]

Another question, Dave: What are the finished demensions of that monster?!? Can you get it through a door without disassembling it?

 

[Neil Joseph]

It certainly is unique. How will you end up wiring them, in parallel? How will you finish off the sides?
orangeman
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Neil's H.T. Site
(plus large selection of H.T.Links and movie images)

 

[Mark Seaton]

Hi Dave,
I've actually been thinking of doing something similar for quite a while. My prefference against the vertical cylindar is only that I don't care much for the idea of up or downfiring woofers. I have a couple designs sketched out in AutoCAD to use tubes similar to what you did, but with even less "dressing" around the tube. Just a simple tube, with a front and back baffle, probably with a threaded rod to keep tension on the baffles. A pair of small tubes could work quite nicely for a small mid-woofer, and a smaller 4" diam tube covering the back of the tweet. For the subs, I was almost ready to build something like your dual Tempest design using a total of 8 Shivas, all sealed before I switched to the dual HE15 project. I had figured to use 2 tall baffles similar to yours, with the top of the baffle rounded to an inch or solarger than the tube I used (in this case I was looking at 16-18" tube). Put one driver on each end of the tube, and you have an enclosure that is extremely rigid given it's relative weight, and it isn't going to go walking across the floor.
The other design someone had posted to this forum like this was where he put the 2 baffles on the ends of a tube, and a board over the top making it into a functional bench. I must say this is where the DIYer can do some really cool things with camoflaging and making the best use of space available.
On a similar design idea, I've long had an idea to hide a sub in a family room. If you have a fireplace, you could get one of those racks to stack wood in. Now, find a large diameter, reasonably round log, slice in half, and cut out the inside so you just have the shell of the log, and then glue the 2 halves around a sonotube with a sub inside... You could easily stack multiple subs with the same look, or just get a few real logs to fill out the look. Now THAT is how you get around a SAF issue . Use these ideas freely, just be sure to let me know how it turns out! especially since I never have the time to try it all out

.
Mark Seaton

 

[Jack Gilvey]

If you have a fireplace, you could get one of those racks to stack wood in. Now, find a large diameter, reasonably round log, slice in half, and cut out the inside so you just have the shell of the log, and then glue the 2 halves around a sonotube with a sub inside... You could easily stack multiple subs with the same look, or just get a few real logs to fill out the look. Now THAT is how you get around a SAF issue

My God, what do you put in your fireplace, whole oaks?
(Alternate smart-ass remark: Sure, until some drunken reveler throws your sub in the fire some chilly New Year's Eve.)
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Link Removed
I prefer to listen to my music in its Original Aspect Ratio: Stereo.

 

[Arnold P]

Well, quite a construction, well done. But looking at it a second time, I wonder why you still use the tube, why not leave it and have a rigid wooden construction?

 

[Dave George]

Micah,
Two 3/4" thick 24" diameter mdf circles are glued and screwed to the inside of each of the mdf sheets, so the sonotubes just slide on, making the equivalent of a 1.5" endcap on each tube and holding the tubes up.
The subs are identicaly tuned, at 17.5 hz. The internal volume is about 175 liters (6.2 ft) per tube, and each has about 64 ounces of stuffing inside. One 4" port I believe 13" long. This was a design I dug up on the HTT forum posted by Dan Wiggins a while ago. I believe that Hank, whose design was also recently posted, used these same measurements.
Overall dimensions are about 4.5 feet high, 26" wide, and 28.5" deep. Just gets through the door.
Andy,
Unfortunately, I've only had one on at a time, and don't have any equipment (yet) to make measurements. Even worse, I'm now at school so I won't really get to play around with the sub until summer.
Neil,
Each sub is wired for a 4 ohm load, I'm using a couple of those Soundstream/Parasound monoblocks (mine are soundstream) for power, about 260 watts per sub. Dan recommends no more than 500 watts for this design IIRC. Still unsure about how to finish the sides.
Arnold,
Used the tubes mainly due to ease of construction and less weight.
Dave