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Is this a good deal? (1 Viewer)

mulalleybs

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schan1269 said:
Depends what that 1/2 board is.
These days, people making boxes for speakers prefer MDF...but it isn't like you can't use plywood.
Yeah its MDF, that's what I had meant to say.
 

mulalleybs

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Robert_J said:
I like my subs to be accurate. It doesn't know you are playing music or watching a movie. It coverts alternating current into physical motion.
Doesn't matter. You can get the dual 2 ohm sub and it will work fine. If you go with the EP-4000, you can power it with either one channel (about 600w into 4 ohms) or bridged (about 1,600w into 4 ohms) but you will have to be very careful with the bridged setup.
If you aren't in a hurry, Obsidian Audio has a great pre-order on their 18's but delivery is 4 months away. If you want to use multiple 15's, then the selection is much larger.
How much space are you willing to give up for a big sub? This is a 5 cubic foot enclosure - http://www.danmarx.org/audioinnovation/tcsounds.html An 18 will need a sealed enclosure of that size minimum. If you want to go ported, it will need to be about 8 cubic feet or larger.
Hmm on amazon it says the 4000 does 1400W into each channel at 4 ohms while the 200 does 750w into each channel at 4 ohms. I'm sure its an overestimation, but 800w overestimated?
I ask because there is a $100 price difference between the two on amazon. Also, along with the EP, do I also need to get the feedback destroyer? And what all cables should I get to go from sub to amp to feedback and receiver?
 

schan1269

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Not sure if this is the model you'd end up with, but...
http://bfdguide.ws/
And by a quick peak, it is a straightforward connection.
RCA-TS(also known as 1/4) cable from receiver to BFD.
TS-TS from BFD to EP4000
If you still don't know what 1/4 TS is...(they are relatively "still new", in the grand scheme of things. These were invented when the telephone switchboard was invented. You've probably seen these in a black and white war movie)
If you have a pair of home headphones...like AKG...
Except your headphones use TRS.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/TRS_connector
 

Robert_J

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mulalleybs said:
Hmm on amazon it says the 4000 does 1400W into each channel at 4 ohms
Look at the owner's manual. Power ratings are measured at 1khz. Subs work from 100hz and lower. Those frequencies are much more difficult to reproduce. Since I run mine into 2 ohms, that's the power rating I remember from the real world sub testing conducted at AVS.
I also need to get the feedback destroyer?
Maybe. Measured my sub's in-room frequency response and had a 14db peak at 54hz. I had to tame it so I got a BFD. I didn't buy it until I knew I needed it.
And what all cables should I get to go from sub to amp to feedback and receiver?
I use cables from Radio Shack. RCA plug on one end and 1/4" mono plug on the other. They are either 3 or 6 feet long. I can't remember. If you get a BFD and it is close to the amp, then a 1/4" mono plug to 1/4" mono plug will work. Monoprice has these cables also.
 

mulalleybs

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Oh hey, I also just noticed there is only a $10 price difference between the 19Ov.2 and the FI SSD 18. Which one do you guys think is better? or would a 15" in a ported box of a similar size be better? So many options!
 

schan1269

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You want your head to spin???
http://www.facstaff.bucknell.edu/esantane/movies/ibsub.html
Basically intending you to read the "Infinite Baffle" part.
 

Robert_J

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mulalleybs said:
Wow thats crazy, too bad I don't have 1k dollars to spend on that. My neighbors would think we were having an earthquake.
Actually, it's only slightly more than your 19Ov.2 sub since the construction of the cabinet is much easier (less wood) and finish is non-existant. IB subs are supposed to have some of the best bass around. Dual 18's are nice. There's a guy on another forum using four 18" Resonant Engineering XXX subs. Google them. With 54mm of excursion, at full blast they would be the equivalent of about 10 eD 19Ov.2s.
From that site concerning the EP-4000:
EP-4000 capable of delivering 2 x 450w into 8ohms, 2 x 635w Watts into 4 Ohms; 2 x 815 Watts into 2 Ohms;
Oh hey, I also just noticed there is only a $10 price difference between the 19Ov.2 and the FI SSD 18. Which one do you guys think is better?
I'd have to look at the Fi for detailed parameters. Scott and his crew are great to work with. I've bought those four 18" recone kits as well as a recone kit for a Blueprint 1001. His old company old company made those for Blueprint.
Speaking of Scott and Fi, he is a legend in the sub world. Destijl Engineering built subs for SVS, Blueprint, Beyond Audio, Elemental Designs, Adire Audio and Resonant Engineering. After designing the last XXX series, he sold RE to the guy that owns US Amps (car audio equipment). That's when he started Fi. They also supply drivers to companies like Epik Subwoofers, Sound Solutions Audio and a few others.
Finally, one of his employees went with RE and stayed with them for a while. He grew up locally and moved back a few years ago. He runs two companies. Fix My Speaker and PSI Car Audio (put the dot com on the end to get to their sites). FMS rebuilds blown subs. I have four of his creations and he is helping me build eight more. He can design a sub to fit your needs exactly. I gave him an older Konaki motor and told him to make me driver to play low and handle the full power of a Behringer amp. http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/fix-my-speaker/60535-quote-franken-woofer-assembly.html
or would a 15" in a ported box of a similar size be better?
Getting back on topic - Ported subs will require a subsonic filter. Let's say you build a sub and tune it to 20hz (tuned via number of ports, diameter and length). If you watch an action movie like Battle: Los Angeles where they have sub 20hz information, you can easily push your sub past xmax. Below tuning the box doesn't act like an air spring. It plays like it is outside of the box and can easily move to far. That tears the suspension or bangs the voice coil into the back plate. Either way, you blow your sub and have to send it to FMS for repairs.
 

Robert_J

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I forgot on the last post. Heavily bracked 3/4" MDF or baltic birch is the minimum for a good sub. Most people will double the baffle so it is 1.5" thick.
 

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