New HT page w/ construction of builtin RPTV (1 Viewer)

[David Lange]

Hi folks,
I've been gone a long time from HTF, but I'm back...at least for the periodic check-in.
I finished up my theater some months ago, and finally put together a pretty comprehensive story for you. You will want to check out my page if you are interested in built-in RPTVs, DIY acoustic panels, or basement remodels in general.
Post any questions or feedback.
Find my HT page here: Link Removed
David

 

[KyleS]

Very nice David you did a great job. I especially love the lighting it adds a nice touch to the feel of the room. Did you ever worry about the TV when you were having to do the construction right there next to it? I know I sure would
KyleS
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[Dan Hitchman]

Thanks for the link.
Very neat and tidy design. A nice contemporary feel. Do you notice the sound as very bright with what looks like a hard wood ceiling?
Just a suggestion-- All you need now is a 100-110" diagonal drop down electric, tensioned Stewart 16x9 (1.78:1) screen (with their black velvet-type matting around the screen area for no visible overscan) and a projector (CRT, LCD, DLP, or D-ILA). You can still use the Toshiba for non critical TV viewing and game playing, and use the projector system for watching movies and big HDTV events. Put the TV on a slightly higher platform, and then have the center channel under the screen and tilted up. You then don't need an acoustically transparent screen.
You would need to paint your room a darker color... perhaps Kodak photo gray for the back portion and flat black around the screen area and ceiling. Total light control is key.
I want a finished home theater!!! Argh! Too much temptation on these forums.
Dan
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Boycott JVC, 5C, HDCP, DFAST, and stop the MPAA!! Call Or Write The FCC And Your State and Federal Representatives To Protect Quality HDTV And Other HD Media, And Your Constitutional Rights!

 

[Chad Isaacs]

very nice!thank you so much for sharing,that is very simmilar to what i want to do if i decide to go the rp route.
i am undecided between rp and fp.either way i want to make it look as nice as you have
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"And the horse i rode in on?"...Marge Simpson

 

[Troy LaMont]

Berry Puckin nice!!!
I've always desired for an enclosed type of HT like yours, but my spacing doesn't really permit it with what I have planned.
I can't wait to finish my HT.

Troy
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No touchy, No touchy (Kuzco)

 

[David Lange]

Thanks for the comments.
It is true that the RPTV was sitting there all through construction. It is on wheels, and I could move it when I was working on the frame, but I never really worried much about it when I was doing the other stages of construction, including the ceiling. I remember covering it with a drop cloth when I was doing a lot of sawing or painting. So, I suppose I could have been more careful, but it really was not a problem.
Is the sound bright due to the wood ceiling? I have not felt that it is. Remember, the concrete floor is covered with wall-to-wall carpeting, so I'm sure that compensates. Also, the front third of the room has the acoustic panels.
Dan's other comments about re-designing for a FP is one of the options I considered up front. In fact, I was pretty close to buying a friend's Sony projector. Here are the main reasons working against it for me:
a) low ceiling (7'3") would impose some restrictions on traffic patterns and seat height and location
b) noise of fan from FP would be very near the viewing position
c) necessity for complete darkness is easy to achieve, but not normally how we want to use the room
d) the 65" RPTV is actually pretty big, and seems to have the "big screen impact"
e) my view of future says that FP and RPTVs that use three guns and require convergence are going to become obsolete in about 10 years. The future is digital display, whether than be some kind of digital FP or a huge flat panel screen technology. I felt comfortable investing $4000 in a RPTV, but I think that it is likely that there will be MUCH better HDTV alternatives in 10 years. Every design is filled with compromises, and I didn't want to "overcommit" resources to current video technology. That $4000 will last me 10 years and at that point it will be a worthless box. My idea is that when inexpensive 100" flat screens are available, I will be able to easily retrofit one into my frame, maintaining the same looking of the room. If I need the vertical space currently occupied by the shelf above the TV, I can just rebuild the acoustic panels to be full ceiling height. Easy retrofit.
David

 

[MarioC]

David,
Really like your theater.
Nice and clean. Excellent lighting!
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Mario Cascio
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My Home Theater
http://www.webpromotion.com/htp

 

[James Gonzalez]

Great Set Up, I love the lighting and the look of your room. Congrat's on a great system.
James
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"I've come here to chew bubble gum and kick ass, and I'm all out of bubble gum!"
Little Bijou

 

[David Lange]

Thanks for the comments.
Several have complimented the lighting. I would have to say that this area of the HT is one of the most pleasing...it turned out just the way I envisioned it.
One of my nifty DIY innovations are the accent lights along the shelf in front of the room. These are cheap halogens bought from Lowe's with a DIY mounting. I found that the little halogen "disk" lights (ususally you buy a string of 3 or 4 with about 3' of wire inbetween) fit very nicely into the end of PVC pipes. Specifically, I bought 45 deg elbows, cut them in half, and the halogen light mounted in the uncut end. I spray painted the plastic maroon to match the fabric. I think there is one close up shot on my web page.
I have six of these lights across the front shelf. Not shown in the photos, I have a dozen of my favorite LP album jackets lined up across that shelf now. The halogens are dimmable without humming (although it is hard to find any documentation to ensure that before I tried it myself) using the Lutron Grafik Eye controller.
The sconces are $25 units from Lowe's and the other ceiling units are modestly priced can lights. I chose black "reflector" inserts, so that the cans are not distractingly bright as you view across the room. This was a good idea. The lightbulbs in these can lights are 50W mini-spots...work fine. By the way, when you install can lighting, make sure that you do not space them too far apart...they are supposed to have overlapping coverage. I believe they recommend no more than 5' between cans, and I used about 4'. Works good.
David