Help with a Subwoofer (1 Viewer)

[Drew_W]

From what I remember of the S&V review, many of those subs were front firing, which is no good. I third/fourth/fifth/whatever the SVS motion though. They don't have such an excellent rep for no reason.

 

[Drew_W]

I meant to add: you may find that room acoustics will play a more crucial role than you think, and that will affect the performance of your sub. Placement as well will make or break a sub. The actual sub is not all that matters.

 

[Nathan Bjork]

I purchased an SVS Cylinder sub for $600 (20-39PCi), and I have to say that it is great with music. I don't listen to rap, so I don't know how well it would work with that kind of bass.

I bought it for my home theater, but it has turned into a music room now. It is very clean and tight and powerful.

I have a sealed sub in my truck, and I miss my SVS when im driving around. But it really depends on your what you like. Just wanted to let you know im happy with a ported sub for music.

-Nathan

 

[JohnSmith]

No you can't. You only plug a maximum number of two ports (25 & 20 models) you do not plug three ports, you change only the port tune (and not to sealed box)

 

[Jon-C]

Brian:


The SVS cylinder and box subs are both downfiring. The box subs can ,however, have their baseplates removed and sit port-side up for those who prefer a frontfiring configuration. The B4+ being the exception.

 

[Brian Fellmeth]

We are both correct depending on how you look at it. For instance, if a port is tuned to 20 Hz and you plug it, you will lose SPL between 18 and 25 Hz which is what I meant by lose extension. You will however gain SPL under 18 Hz.

 

[ScottCHI]

that's headroom, not extension

 

[Tim Hoover]

Whoops! So it appears that's correct. I'll get out of the way now...

 

[paul clipsel]

I too was limited to between $700-$750, to buy a musically capable subwoofer. After a lot of careful listening I ended up choosing the VTF-3 MK2, which really produces some nice tight deep bass. I am very happy with the way it sounds and recommend this sub in the under $700 price bracket.

PC

 

[JimMIT]

Thanks, fellas, for the input. It's easy to see that SVS and Hsu have the most fans out there. And it's good to hear adjectives like "clean" and "tight" when ya'll are describing them. They will definitely have spots on my "short list." I think, Paul, that the VTF-3 MK2 is going to be too large for me; the VTF-2 MK2 is better for me, size-wise.

Based on research elsewhere, I've eliminated from my list the Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12S (some complaints about loud pop at shut-off), the Klipsch subs (not quite on the same level as some of the others) and the REL Q108E (a little too small).

Okay, I'm going to give this one last shot. Anyone out there have any opinions on the following two subwoofers or at least the companies that make them?:

1) ACI (The Force)
2) Wharfedale PC-12

 

[JimMIT]

Thanks, fellas, for the input. It's easy to see that SVS and Hsu have the most fans out there. And it's good to hear adjectives like "clean" and "tight" when ya'll are describing them. They will definitely have spots on my "short list." I think, Paul, that the VTF-3 MK2 is going to be too large for me; the VTF-2 MK2 is better for me, size-wise.

Based on research elsewhere, I've eliminated from my list the Cambridge Soundworks BassCube 12S (some complaints about loud pop at shut-off), the Klipsch subs (not quite on the same level as some of the others) and the REL Q108E (a little too small).

Okay, I'm going to give this one last shot. Anyone out there have any opinions on the following two subwoofers or at least the companies that make them?:

1) ACI (The Force)
2) Wharfedale PC-12

 

[Robb Roy]

Jim,



Have you tried www.audioenvy.com? The internet companies really provide great values.

Personally, the whole idea of a sub being good for HT but not music is ridiculous to me. There are cases of people who prefer some distortion in their music, but I look for accuracy. If a sub is accurate with HT, it's not like it suddenly becomes inaccurate because you're playing music. Besides, there's background music in almost all movies most of the time, and it needs to sound good, too.

-Robb

 

[Robb Roy]

Jim,



Have you tried www.audioenvy.com? The internet companies really provide great values.

Personally, the whole idea of a sub being good for HT but not music is ridiculous to me. There are cases of people who prefer some distortion in their music, but I look for accuracy. If a sub is accurate with HT, it's not like it suddenly becomes inaccurate because you're playing music. Besides, there's background music in almost all movies most of the time, and it needs to sound good, too.

-Robb

 

[paul clipsel]

Having a wife I can understand that. The VTF-3 MK2 is not what many people would consider small enough, although its not the biggest either. For its performance, and the way it sounds, it certainly is priced very well IMHO.

PC

 

[paul clipsel]

Having a wife I can understand that. The VTF-3 MK2 is not what many people would consider small enough, although its not the biggest either. For its performance, and the way it sounds, it certainly is priced very well IMHO.

PC

 

[JimMIT]

Thanks Rob and Paul. Rob, what you said about accuracy of subs makes sense. Also, I had not tried Audio Envy; never heard of it before this evening. It appears, however, that the only subs listed are SVS and Adire. I didn't see where Adire has any downfiring powered subs and I may have a problem with SVS.

In my continuing research, I read a review recently (cited and linked at the SVS website) in which Dr. John E. Johnson, Jr. stated: "In the case of the 25-31 PCi, as with most of their subs, the product is basically a heavy cardboard tube, with the driver mounted at the bottom, facing downward, and a huge port at the top, with a perforated metal plate over the entire top end."

Being somewhat new to audio, I have never heard of a loudspeaker being made of cardboard, heavy or not. I'm not sure if I want to spend several hundred dollars on a loudspeaker made out of cardboard, regardless of how good it may sound. I thought virtually all loudspeakers were constructed of MDF. Am I off base here or is carboard an acceptable loudspeaker material for cylindrical subs? Are all cylindrical subs made of cardboard?

 

[JimMIT]

Thanks Rob and Paul. Rob, what you said about accuracy of subs makes sense. Also, I had not tried Audio Envy; never heard of it before this evening. It appears, however, that the only subs listed are SVS and Adire. I didn't see where Adire has any downfiring powered subs and I may have a problem with SVS.

In my continuing research, I read a review recently (cited and linked at the SVS website) in which Dr. John E. Johnson, Jr. stated: "In the case of the 25-31 PCi, as with most of their subs, the product is basically a heavy cardboard tube, with the driver mounted at the bottom, facing downward, and a huge port at the top, with a perforated metal plate over the entire top end."

Being somewhat new to audio, I have never heard of a loudspeaker being made of cardboard, heavy or not. I'm not sure if I want to spend several hundred dollars on a loudspeaker made out of cardboard, regardless of how good it may sound. I thought virtually all loudspeakers were constructed of MDF. Am I off base here or is carboard an acceptable loudspeaker material for cylindrical subs? Are all cylindrical subs made of cardboard?

 

[Robb Roy]

Jim,

It's not cardboard. What it is exactly, no one knows (that is proprietary and SVS hasn't shared with us). I used to own a 20-39PC+, and the thing is rock solid -- you would need heavy tools and a will to destruct to cause damage to it. Many DIYers build subs from sonotube, which is where John Johnson gets that reference. While sonotube is technically a form of cardboard, it is used to shape concrete, so that should give you some idea of its strength.

-Robb

edit: too late on a Saturday night for me to spell correctly...

 

[Robb Roy]

Jim,

It's not cardboard. What it is exactly, no one knows (that is proprietary and SVS hasn't shared with us). I used to own a 20-39PC+, and the thing is rock solid -- you would need heavy tools and a will to destruct to cause damage to it. Many DIYers build subs from sonotube, which is where John Johnson gets that reference. While sonotube is technically a form of cardboard, it is used to shape concrete, so that should give you some idea of its strength.

-Robb

edit: too late on a Saturday night for me to spell correctly...

 

[JohnSmith]

I was weary of cardboard subs too, but you would need to stand on the thing to crush it; even then I will assume it'll stand up to it.

The cardboard itself is highly compressed, try one of them packaging tubes (for posters)- they're tough SOB's- then imagine something several times thicker (1/4 inch) and I also believe the inside has a layer of epoxy for added strength (could be wrong though)

Sonotubes are used to mold concrete for underpasses in the states, and other columns. So if Sonotube can support concrete I don't think you have to worry about it for home use.

Also SVS tubes have a hard plastic outer coating under the cloth, so you dropping a drink on the side won't automatically ruin it (soften the cardboard) I would guess some DIY sonotube subs just have the cloth over the bare cardboard tubes.

I bought the SVS unheard from the states (live in the UK) you have the luxury of being able to return it (or try various models) since return shipping is much lower (plus don't pay import duty, taxes)

If you wish to buy a SVS sub made from MDF, checkout the box subs. But you'll pay more shipping, they cost more, are heavier, and are larger. They are also tuned higher at 25hz (the tubes are available in 16 & 20hz versions) the tubes offer lower tuned capability, plus the least amount of floorspace used (16.5" diameter)