Extending Electric Power to Components (1 Viewer)

[tgentr]

I am using a monster power center, but due to the nature of the way Xbox and Wii sensor bars and cameras work I had to move them by the projection screen. I would like to continue connecting these components into the monster power center. I was wondering what the best way to do this without draping extendion cords.


I was thinking of creating some outlets that are not connected to power,but rather create a connection allowing the components up front to connect to an outlet that is connected to another outlet by the power center. For this to work though I need some type of male adapter so i can connect to the power center as usual.

 

[CB750]

Tom


Are you a licensed master electrician? I suspect what you are proposing violates national and state electrical codes and would not pass a local building inspection. You cannot install in wall 120 AC outlets and then connect them to your power center with an adapter plug. All circuits must be connected directly to your electrical panel and any connections made in approved connection boxes. Most areas will allow the homeowner to do the work themselves but the work needs to be inspected to ensure it meets code.


If any problems were to occur with your pirate no permit wiring connection you could run the risk of voiding your home owners insurance,

I would suggest that you move your equipment closer to your screen and use a surge protector to connect it your nearest 120 AC wall plug.

 

[smithb]

Originally Posted by tgentr

I am using a monster power center, but due to the nature of the way Xbox and Wii sensor bars and cameras work I had to move them by the projection screen. I would like to continue connecting these components into the monster power center. I was wondering what the best way to do this without draping extendion cords.


I was thinking of creating some outlets that are not connected to power,but rather create a connection allowing the components up front to connect to an outlet that is connected to another outlet by the power center. For this to work though I need some type of male adapter so i can connect to the power center as usual.

Actually, there is such an adapter. I have one in my theater to work with my projector. I got the idea from a designer on another forum. His designs were implemented and inspected so they must have been to code (at least in some states). Basically, the concept acts like an in-wall extension cord. I had mine implemented by an electrician.


I have the male connector outlet box in my equiment room, from there romex is run inwall to a female outlet where my projector is mounted to the ceiling in the theater room. So I have:

- line conditioner surge suppressor plugged into a separate circuit

- battery backup plugged into the line conditioner

- heavy duty three prong extension cord from the batter backup to the male outlet connector

- projector plugged into the standard outlet on the other end.


This arrangement provides surge protection for all my theater components, and additional line conditioning and battery backup to the projector so quick flickers in power don't lessen the life of my bulb.


The male adapter can be tricky to find. I have seem them online and they can be found at some local electrical stores. Just don't expect to find one at Home Depot or Lowes.

 

[CB750]

Brad,


Has your rig been inspected by your local government building department. Just because a person is an designer or electrician or you can buy some sort of a connection device does not mean it meets your local electrical code. As far as I know in my state installing nothing more then an extension cord through building walls is a no no and should not be promoted on this forum.

 

[Phil Taylor]

Originally Posted by CB750

Brad,


Has your rig been inspected by your local government building department. Just because a person is an designer or electrician or you can buy some sort of a connection device does not mean it meets your local electrical code. As far as I know in my state installing nothing more then an extension cord through building walls is a no no and should not be promoted on this forum.

The "link" below is for sale on Amazon. As long as you use Romex in-wall (supplied with kit) such a power solution should not violate any building/electrical codes - a regular extension cord in-wall is a definite violation. I recently specified a similar "link" that was installed by the electrical contractor from a UPS/conditioner to a projector during a pre-wire and it passed inspection by a VERY strict building/electrical inspector.

http://www.amazon.com/Datacomm-50-3323-WH-KIT-Panel-Organizer-Solution/dp/B001PB7UVA

 

[smithb]

Edited: Did not see Phil's reply above before posting mine. His explains it all quite well so I deleted my response.

 

[tgentr]

Thanks for the feedback. I spoke to a master electrician I often use and he did not know of commercial way of doing it, but he did suggest that I could essentially create an extension cord by running standard 12/2 from the components upfront and then connect a male end of 15-20 amp cord in the junction box at the power center end. He is still not sure this would be to code though in all areas. The way my room is defined, moving the equipment closer is nto really an option and I didn't want to run a number of long extension cords to the back. I might be better off just buying another power center and setting up front with game consoles.

The problem arose when I purchased the Xbox kinect that comes as a cabled device like the wi sensor. I had been using a wii remote sensor, but hated changing the batteries every few months (don't know why this doesn't have an ac adapter). I have wondered if i cound extend the xbox kinect with a standard usb extension cable since it appears to be standard usb. any thoughts on that.

 

[tgentr]

Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Phil Taylor]

BTW and FYI - the Wii sensor bar is actually just an IR emitter unit and is little more than an IR "flashlight" - the sensor is actually the controller and it reacts to its calculation of the location of the emitters in the bar. There are battery powered versions of the bar available. It's not an item that is crucial to protect anyway. The 360 Kinect unit on the other hand is a different story as it houses sensitive camera(s). I lieu of a power link as described above you may want to just run a thin extension along the wall/baseboard to your Monster strip = easier and less expensive.