The best method for recessing a driver? (flush mount) (1 Viewer)

[Anthony_Gomez]

I'll be doing a little veneering (NBL) and am curious as to the best method for flushmounting.

The two problems I am concerned with:
1) chip out of the veneer at the cut edge
2)"circle" indents left by imperfections on the Jasper base accentuated by multiple passes through thicker wood.

Here are the options I can think of
1) veneer first, and use a Fluted staight bit
2) veneer first and use an up cut bit
3) veneer first and use a down cut bit (rocker doesn't have them)
4) route the inner diameter first, then veneer, then flush , then use a rabbit bit

any opinions/advice from EXPERIENCED cabinet builders (just trying to eliminate guesses)?

 

[DarrellC]

I would do the following. Rout out a hole slightly smaller than the sub's frame. Next take a rabbeting bit with a bearing at the bottom and rout out a circle to recess the sub. Make sure it is the exact diameter and thickness if the speaker. Then veneer over the opening. You can trim the veneer with a straight cutting bit with a bearing on the bottom to ride in the rabbet. That should work!

 

[Pete Mazz]

I always make a full template of the baffle out of MDF and clamp it onto a finished speaker and route the driver holes with a pattern bit. Once the template is made correctly it leaves no chance of errors on a finished speaker. The templte also prevents any tearout of veneer. If any of the drivers are offset to make a left and right, just flip the template over.



Pete

 

[Javier_Huerta]

I am curious about something... could you rout a hole using a simple Dremel tool with the routing accesory?

 

[Jonathan T]

You could, but it wouldn't be easy, a router would be much better.

 

[Mark Risso]

I used a dremel with the routing tool workes great on small holes. I used it to cut and recess the driver

 

[Jonathan M]

Just confirming Pete's method - works a charm. If you can get a patterning bit with the bearing the exact same diameter of the router bit, then it's a perfect method, as you can be certain your pattern is correct beforehand by placing the pattern over the driver.

You can also use the same method with a template follower, but you have to allow for the extra diameter on the follower which introduces a little guess work.

In either case, my advice is to make a template - especially if you are doing more than one hole the same size! You can test your template out on a piece of scrap MDF to make sure it is perfect. I've used both the above methods with success after veneering first.

 

[Chris Tsutsui]

I've seen Pete's method. MDF templates work well with laminates and veneers.

 

[Baldemar Garcia]

Have you seen this?

http://www.speakerbuilder.net/web_fi...ventutmain.htm