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Pocket hole jig question (Kyle?) (1 Viewer)

Wes Nance

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jan 1, 2002
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249
Hi,
I've been looking at the new PSI pocket hole jig that's on introductory sale for $69.95, here:
PSI Pocket Hole Jig
I'm wondering- will I be able to use this on a smaller box, like a bookshelf monitor (AV1) that is around 12x8x7 or something? I'm trying to figure out how I would be able to get the screws in. I definitely won't be able to get my cordless drill in there. Do you think a small cordless screwdriver would work? I can see how this would be a great system for bigger furniture or a sub enclosure, but my sub is already built. I'm going to be building some smaller mains and a center, and don't want to order this jig if it won't be useful in these projects.
Thanks!
Wes
 

Greg_R

Screenwriter
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This is one of the many OEM versions of the Kreg pocket jig. They are all about the same cost and perform the same function. Personally, I'm not a big fan of having screws in my speaker enclosures. Besides transmitting vibrations they make finishing a pain (fill all the holes, etc.). I prefer using a biscuit (plate) joiner for alignment... the biscuits keep the glue-up from sliding around when clamping..
 

Wes Nance

Stunt Coordinator
Joined
Jan 1, 2002
Messages
249
Greg,

My understanding of the pocket hole is that they would all be on the *inside* of the cabinet, hence no holes to fill that are visible.

Also, my understanding is that having the holes pre-drilled with the jig makes glue-up much easier, and you don't even have to leave the pieces clamped once the pocket screws are in, etc.

I'm also thinking about using biscuits, but with my router and an MLCS kit, which is pretty cheap.

My question is whether there is enough room to get a power screwdriver *inside* the small cabinet of a bookshelf monitor to screw the pocket screws in when the cabinet is being assembled.

Thanks,

Wes
 

kevin_u

Agent
Joined
Nov 24, 2001
Messages
33
Wes,

I've had a Kreg jig for many years. It's would be difficult to use it on a small box. The square-drive bit used to drive in the screws is 4" long.

It's been my experience that pocket screws don't have enough "bite" when used with MDF to make a tight joint.

I mainly use the Kreg jig for building face frames. Even when using the Kreg supplied vise-grip clamp the joint will move out of alignment slightly when screwing together. So if your buying the jig to help with alignment, you may be discouraged with the results.

If you have a biscuit jointer use it. If you have a table saw, splines are a simple way to line things up.

Good luck with your project,
Kevin
 

Hank Frankenberg

Senior HTF Member
Joined
Oct 13, 1998
Messages
2,573
Wes, I've built many monitor speakers, a pair of 4' towers and recently a pair of huge, heavy 72" line source towers, and I only use glue. You really don't need to use screws, dowels, biscuits, etc for strong joints, as good-fitting joints with enough glue (good old yellow carpenters glue)will be stronger than the wood itself. I assume you are considering pocket holes for joint strength, correct? If your goal is not joint strength, but joint alignment, my opinion is that monitor size cabinets are easy enough to align by hand while you're applying your clamps. I like the Merle band clamps from MLCS which force a cabinet into "square" when tightened. For large cabinets, you might consider a pneumatic brad nailer. Cabinet makers use them to hold cabinet parts in alignment after applying glue, which cuts down the number of clamps, and therefore, labor time involved in the assembly process.
 

Kyle Richardson

Screenwriter
Joined
Jan 1, 1998
Messages
1,073
Like others have said, just use wood glue and clamps for your construction. The only reason we use pocket holes on the kits is because many people dont have clamps to hold the panels in place while the glue dries and this is a much cheaper assembly meathod for them. It really becomes difficult to use them in tight places like a mini monitor or bookshelf speaker.
 

John_Lee

Supporting Actor
Joined
Mar 31, 2000
Messages
966
I prefer using a biscuit (plate) joiner for alignment... the biscuits keep the glue-up from sliding around when clamping..
Has anyone made cabinets with [glued] mortice and tenon joinery? I am confident I can route the pieces to sufficiently precise tolerances, but am curious if there are issues I'm not considering before I begin.
 

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