Jeff Meininger
Second Unit
- Joined
- Jun 5, 2002
- Messages
- 481
Here's my DIY master-plan. PLEASE find the stupid parts and tell me how I should change them for the better!!
My design is for a sealed Shiva in 16-inch diameter sonotube. I'll be using the crossover at 120 Hz. I prefer a tight/clean bass, but I still like my explosions, so I'm going to shoot for a Q between 0.65 and 0.7. The experts tell me that a tempest is a better match for the size of my room, but not with the high crossover setting. The crossover setting is non-negotiable.
I don't run Windows, so I can't run LspCAD, WinISD, or "SonoSub Kit". I've come up with my numbers using web-based javascript calculators, and I'd very much like someone to double-check them. Especially since what I'm doing is not that different from a "Rava", yet their Q is lower and their enclosure is SMALLER. Seems odd to me.
For a Qtc of 0.665, I'd need 79 liters of internal volume. This means that my tube will be (roughly) 24 inches tall. Would I get a benefit with stuffing the sub with polyfill? How much should I stuff, and how much should I reduce the physical size of the enclosure to accound for the stuffing? If I want to allow myself some adjustability, would it be wise to make the enclosure 60 liters and just use lots of stuffing so that I can later remove stuffing if I change my mind and want to raise the Q? Or is a larger volume a better way to get lower Q than with stuffing?
I plan to use the bass-boosted parts express 250 W plate amp, because that's what has been suggested to me here. The boost at 30Hz will help counteract the sealed box's tendancy to start rolling off above this point? (I have no graph-generating software programs to confirm this for myself.)
I'm supposed to wire the voice coils in parallel, right?
I'm not planning on flush-mounting the driver, because I've read that it isn't necessary except for tweeters. Most people DO flush-mount their driver, though. It's just for show, right?
I plan on using the popular "two layers of .75-inch MDF" endcaps, with one layer fitting inside the tube and one extending out a bit. I plan on making an SVS-looking base-plate with another .75-inch MDF disc, and standing it off from the driver endcap with 4-inch posts. I'll go taller if anyone things it will improve sound quality / output. I plan on putting small speaker spikes on the bottom of the base plate so that the sub has good footing on my padded carpet.
I plan on mounting the driver to the driver endcap with T-nuts, digging into small 1-inch pieces of 1/8" or 1/16" lite-ply glued to the MDF.
I plan on mounting the endcaps to the sonotube with wood glue, and sealing the inside with 100% silicone caulk. I do NOT plan on using the "all-threaded rod" or any other internal bracing between the endcaps because that looks like a lot of extra work. I plan on using a few wood screws through the side of the sonotube and into the MDF instead (first having drilled pilot holes). Is this decision a mistake? I figure the internal pressure in my small, sealed design is probably even HIGHER than the pressure in vented designs, so is my laziness here going to cost me?
I plan on painting the tube black (what kind of paint should I use?) with a brush. No primer. Then I'll cover it with a T-shirt material sock. I'm not sure how I'll make it look pretty where the sock butts up to the MDF.
I'm planning on lightly sanding the exposed MDF discs, and spraypainting them with flat black spraypaint after a coat or two of Kilz primer.
My design is for a sealed Shiva in 16-inch diameter sonotube. I'll be using the crossover at 120 Hz. I prefer a tight/clean bass, but I still like my explosions, so I'm going to shoot for a Q between 0.65 and 0.7. The experts tell me that a tempest is a better match for the size of my room, but not with the high crossover setting. The crossover setting is non-negotiable.
I don't run Windows, so I can't run LspCAD, WinISD, or "SonoSub Kit". I've come up with my numbers using web-based javascript calculators, and I'd very much like someone to double-check them. Especially since what I'm doing is not that different from a "Rava", yet their Q is lower and their enclosure is SMALLER. Seems odd to me.
For a Qtc of 0.665, I'd need 79 liters of internal volume. This means that my tube will be (roughly) 24 inches tall. Would I get a benefit with stuffing the sub with polyfill? How much should I stuff, and how much should I reduce the physical size of the enclosure to accound for the stuffing? If I want to allow myself some adjustability, would it be wise to make the enclosure 60 liters and just use lots of stuffing so that I can later remove stuffing if I change my mind and want to raise the Q? Or is a larger volume a better way to get lower Q than with stuffing?
I plan to use the bass-boosted parts express 250 W plate amp, because that's what has been suggested to me here. The boost at 30Hz will help counteract the sealed box's tendancy to start rolling off above this point? (I have no graph-generating software programs to confirm this for myself.)
I'm supposed to wire the voice coils in parallel, right?
I'm not planning on flush-mounting the driver, because I've read that it isn't necessary except for tweeters. Most people DO flush-mount their driver, though. It's just for show, right?
I plan on using the popular "two layers of .75-inch MDF" endcaps, with one layer fitting inside the tube and one extending out a bit. I plan on making an SVS-looking base-plate with another .75-inch MDF disc, and standing it off from the driver endcap with 4-inch posts. I'll go taller if anyone things it will improve sound quality / output. I plan on putting small speaker spikes on the bottom of the base plate so that the sub has good footing on my padded carpet.
I plan on mounting the driver to the driver endcap with T-nuts, digging into small 1-inch pieces of 1/8" or 1/16" lite-ply glued to the MDF.
I plan on mounting the endcaps to the sonotube with wood glue, and sealing the inside with 100% silicone caulk. I do NOT plan on using the "all-threaded rod" or any other internal bracing between the endcaps because that looks like a lot of extra work. I plan on using a few wood screws through the side of the sonotube and into the MDF instead (first having drilled pilot holes). Is this decision a mistake? I figure the internal pressure in my small, sealed design is probably even HIGHER than the pressure in vented designs, so is my laziness here going to cost me?
I plan on painting the tube black (what kind of paint should I use?) with a brush. No primer. Then I'll cover it with a T-shirt material sock. I'm not sure how I'll make it look pretty where the sock butts up to the MDF.
I'm planning on lightly sanding the exposed MDF discs, and spraypainting them with flat black spraypaint after a coat or two of Kilz primer.