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Here are some T/S params of my Dayton driver: 500 watts RMS/700 watts max *Le: 3.17 mH *Impedance: 4 ohms *Re: 3.07 ohms *Fs: 22.2 Hz *SPL: 88.6 dB 2.83V/1m *Vas: 2.61 cu. ft. *Qms: 6.12 *Qes: .47 *Qts: .44 *Xmax: 18.7 mm *Sd: .0447 m^2 I'm using the PE 250W plate amp. I played with...

I figured a filter with the widest bandwidth possible at 20hz would get me the extension I'd need. I'm not positive how far this would stress the driver as far as excursion goes though. Is there anyway I can check this?

I have recently been reading up on using Linkwitz Transforms to flatten sealed subs. I'm wondering how well a BFD can be used in this way. I know they don't have any filters below 20hz, but can you use the Fine and Bandwidth settings to reach below 20? Also is there anythign I can use to model...

Very nice looking cabinets, they look clean and finished nicely. How are the highs with those drivers? I have never seen this particular design.

I've used the AR flat cable and like it a lot. I ran it under my carpet and behind the baseboard. It goes up the wall to each surround with staples in the center. After I painted the section running up the wall it's almost invisible if you look at it straight on.

Dahlquist! The newer QX series not the older DQ. I got my set for a great price and have been extremely happy with them, even after listening to Paradigm and B&W at the local botique.

After dorking around with LFE levels more I figured out that much of what I was hearing was actually the BFD clipping already. I lowered the line levels and turned up the amp a bit and things cleaned up nicely. Are there any disadvantages in running a lower signal to the BFD? I read that this...

I built my own 142l sub and have a pretty nice room curve dialed in. Ever since adding the BFD I noticed my sub tends to bottom out more than before. I assume this is because I tamed a +12db hump from 50-60hz, so when calibrated with my mains the sub is producing more sub 50hz material than...

I'm still having issues with what I think is my driver hitting it's excursion limit. According to Unibox I should be hitting my 19mm limit at just under 16hz with a full 250W. Coupled with the rumble filter on my amp it seems to me I shouldn't be able to push the driver past this point. Did I...

I changed a few more things on my sub to help protect it from bottoming and finalized my BFD filters. Here is the end result: I tamed the hump at 20hz and changed the rumble filter from 11hz w/o gain, to 18hz with about 1/2db of gain @ 30hz. I added sockets on the back side of the preamp...

You think that house curve is too steep? I was thinking about taking a few db off that 20hz mark.

Well I think I've answered my own question. I backed off the pre gain a few db and turned up the amp volume. This cleaned things up while still giving me the output. Guess I should just let the amp do it's job. I'm very impressed with how much a difference a nicely calibrated/EQd sub sounds...

First of all here are some graphs of my corrections before and after. The sub is a 142.5l vented box tuned to 18hz with a 12" Dayton Titanic MK3 and 250 PE plate amp. Before I added the BFD I had my reciever attentuating the LFE 10db plus taking another 6db off the top of that for a total...

I think I'm beginning to understand. Vd is the volume of air the driver can displace, the product of its xmax and cone surface area. To play low frequencies loud you need to displace more air. From what I've read the Dayton sacrifices some efficiency for displacement over the Shiva. I...

Is it a pretty safe bet that if I'm ok during Darla's tank tapping I'm calibrated at a safe level? So far I havent heard any material that works the sub that hard.

Before I attentuated the LFE signal 10db on my reciever the sub made some pretty horrible sounds. Does a bottoming driver always make a metallic clang? Mine didn't do that, it just sounded horribly distorted like it was going to tear itself apart.

I meant FR, frequency response, sorry. How does Vd affect things? I've been staring at all these driver parameters and don't really know what 90% of them mean. From what I understand about efficiency I thought the Shiva would get louder with less power. Looking at WinISD it looks like the Shiva...

I built a 142.5l Adire style sub that was orignally designed for the famous Shiva. After looking over the gain graph in WinISD it looked like "upgrading" to the more expensive Dayton Titanic MK3 would give me more SPL and a flatter FQ. I didn't notice until it was too late that the Dayton is...

This SVS here is what I'm going for. It looks like they have the top and bottom edges blocked with solid wood, and the rest wrapped with veneer. Right now my vertical edges are rounded over 1/4" which was plenty for the vinyl, you think I'd have to go to the larger 3/4" raduis to avoid problems...

This SVS here is what I'm going for. It looks like they have the top and bottom edges blocked with solid wood, and the rest wrapped with veneer. Right now my vertical edges are rounded over 1/4" which was plenty for the vinyl, you think I'd have to go to the larger 3/4" raduis to avoid problems...

I finished my sub and covered it with the PE black vinyl. It looks fine, but I'm not sure how happy I am with it after seeing the wood finishes SVS puts on their subs. Adding real wood veneer seems pretty straight forward, except when you get to rounded edges that go two directions. Right now...

There's a panel cut table for each design on the PDF. This should tell you exactly how big to cut each piece. Section 4.1 lists the 85lL Adire Alignment. These tables are what I used to make all my cuts for the 142.5l version and everything fit perfectly.

I used PE#081-425 screws to hold my port and driver in with no problems. I've even backed them out and reinstalled things a few times withough stripping out the holes. Just be sure to pre-drill.

All calibration and measurement was taken with the mains turned on and set to small. I turned the sub down a bit more, so the hump isn't nearly as high. My reciever only goes down to 80hz for the crossover, so I'm kinda limited there. The dip at 125hz is back though since I turned the crossover...

All calibration and measurement was taken with the mains turned on and set to small. I turned the sub down a bit more, so the hump isn't nearly as high. My reciever only goes down to 80hz for the crossover, so I'm kinda limited there. The dip at 125hz is back though since I turned the crossover...

I uploaded a new version of my graph. All measurements have been taken with the mains on. I noticed the jagged response after 60hz also. The new graph shows what happened when I turned the reciever xover up to 100hz and flipped the phase switch on the subs amp. Now it looks like I have a...

I uploaded a new version of my graph. All measurements have been taken with the mains on. I noticed the jagged response after 60hz also. The new graph shows what happened when I turned the reciever xover up to 100hz and flipped the phase switch on the subs amp. Now it looks like I have a...

I totally spaced adding in the corrections. I replaced the old graph with a new version that I used my own test tones and corrected values. Oddly the peak looks like it shifted to 50-60hz. I'm not sure why this would happen, everything besides the tones is the same.

I totally spaced adding in the corrections. I replaced the old graph with a new version that I used my own test tones and corrected values. Oddly the peak looks like it shifted to 50-60hz. I'm not sure why this would happen, everything besides the tones is the same.

I used the test tones at the end of a test cd called Bass Mechanik to generate my data, is this ok or would it be better to generate my own? I've heard the term bass trap around here before, what exactly is this?