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Wiring Basement for Development (1 Viewer)

BAreEhD

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Hi folks, I'm brand new here & looking for some guidance regarding how best to wire my basement to make sure I've got what I need. This will be my cave, so I don't want to compromise (within some sort of reasonable bounds that will allow my marriage remain a going concern!)

My gear will consist of a 60" TV, receiver, in-wall 7.2 speakers, PS4, PVR, Apple TV, and some sort of solution to account for the fact that my gear will be under a bar about 20 feet from my TV.

Obviously I'd like this to be as clean as possible, so my first question is what wires will I need to run from the bar to the wall on which my TV will be mounted? I would imagine I'll need HDMI, but is there anything else? Any reason for an optical cable? More than one HDMI to the TV? Of course I'll need an electrical outlet and wiring for the center channel speaker.

Regarding the speakers, I'll run the wires from the bar to the speaker locations, however what kind of wire do I need? Is there varying guages of this wire?

Also, what do I need to do to be able to control the system given that it will be under the bar and a direct line of sight will not be possible?

One last thing: I'm not sure what the prevailing thoughts are on them, however I've had good luck with monoprice.com so I'd like to buy as much from there as possible (speakers & wires). Thoughts on that?

Thanks everyone, and I look forward to this fun project!!
 

schan1269

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Xantech IR control or Cables 2 Go. Or you could buy a Next Generation for your AVR's remote...if it can control everything already.Or buy any of the URC or Harmony remotes that are meant for this.In wall wiring must be CL rated. 14 or 16 awg.I would run Cat 6 for the TV and get a single cat HDMI extender(HDBaseT is coming as well).
 

BAreEhD

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Thanks for the reply!

So for speaker wire, I'm planning on buying this:
250ft 12AWG CL2 Rated 2-Conductor Oxygen-Free Pure Bare Copper Speaker Wire Cable (For In-Wall Installation)

Regarding the wiring for the TV, I did a bit of additional 'Googling' and found references to running 4 Cat 6 cables to futureproof your setup. Does this make sense? Is this the right product: 30FT 24AWG Cat6 550MHz UTP Bare Copper Ethernet Network Cable - Black

For the extender:HDMI® Extender Using Cat5e or CAT6 Cable - Extend Upto 98ft

My only concern with the extender is it appears to require two Cat 6 cables rather than one.

Also, what's the advantage of the Cat 6 over just running an HDMI in the first place?

Thanks again!
 

schan1269

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There are single cat HDMI extenders. Double are fine...just run two.Then one day you can get a HDBaseT TV, just use 1.HDBaseT will appear on consumer projectors this year. I've been telling projector installers to run cat for years. HDBaseT is why.I bet April is when somebody finally incorporates HDBaseT as an output(and not just for a secondary zone) on AVR.Cat is more stable beyond 35ft.I would buy a bare bundle of 150-200ft of cat 6. A bag of connectors and a RJ crimp tool.
 

ArmSC

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Cat 6 can be a pain in the butt to terminate depending on which connectors you get vs cat 5e which is easier. You either want to practice on some scrap before going to your main runs or you might want to get jacks and punch down tool instead of a crimp tool and clips. A surface mount box with a faceplate usually looks cleaner than having wire just hanging too. Just a suggestion.
 

schan1269

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Some places, it is code to use faceplates anyway(like it is here). Where I live, electrical, speaker wire, ethernet are all treated the same. Must be in a termination box(terminology used here) with "in room separate connection".
 

Robert_J

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some sort of solution to account for the fact that my gear will be under a bar about 20 feet from my TV.
How about a 20 ft. HDMI cable? I use a 35 foot Monoprice cable from my equipment rack to my projector. Works great.
Any reason for an optical cable?
Will you run apps on your TV? Netflix, etc. You either need a receiver and TV that support sending audio back from the TV to the receiver via HDMI (called return channel) or you need the optical.
Also, what do I need to do to be able to control the system given that it will be under the bar and a direct line of sight will not be possible?
Harmony RF to IR remote or the Harmony app for your smart phone.
This will be my cave, so I don't want to compromise (within some sort of reasonable bounds that will allow my marriage remain a going concern!)
I've had good luck with monoprice.com so I'd like to buy as much from there as possible (speakers & wires). Thoughts on that?
No compromise but you want to buy speakers from Monoprice. They have great cables for the price. Heck, great cables at any price. But you want to put Monoprice speakers in your man-cave? It's like buying a Ferrari and putting a set of $100 tires from Wal-Mart on it. You will still get where you are going but you will never use it to its full potential.
 

BAreEhD

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Regarding the speakers, I just assumed that since most things from monoprice are good the speakers are too, but it sounds like this isn't the case.

So I'd like to do a 7.2 surround system. What speakers should I buy? I know that's a very broad question, but ignoring the subwoofers, is there a particular brand/model that is known for a great performance-to-price ratio?

I don't really have a budget in mind, but as I said I'd like to keep it reasonable. Monoprice speakers are obviously cheap, but given the ratings they get on their site it's hard not to consider them. I could get the entire 7 speaker setup for
 

Robert_J

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Suggesting speakers to someone will be like telling them this is the kind of person they should marry. Everyone has different tastes and everyone hears differently. What have you auditioned?

I have learned over the years that I like soft dome tweeters and a flat response. That's about it. That means I can just about pick out any DIY design that has those to things and I'll like it.

It's a much better value to build your own speakers than buy them if you have the tools and some basic skills. But you mentioned in-walls so you are very limited. I'm am partial to the Dayton Audio speakers from Parts Express so I would have no hesitation in buying their in-wall models.

You also said subs. How much space are you willing to give up? Subs can range in size from a shoe box to a refrigerator. The larger the cabinet the more efficient they play.

I just saw your latest post. You didn't put your location so I assumed you were US based. Some US speakers are not cost effective to get north of the border.
 

ArmSC

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BAreEhD said:
I don't really have a budget in mind, but as I said I'd like to keep it reasonable. Monoprice speakers are obviously cheap, but given the ratings they get on their site it's hard not to consider them. I could get the entire 7 speaker setup for
 

Robert_J

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ArmSC said:
I'm not sure that you can quantify triple the performance...it's not necessarily the same as a engine or CPU. What sounds like crap to one sounds fine to another. I know that my parents couldn't tell the difference between a $200 HTiB and $1000+ 5.1 setup. If you can't tell the difference then why buy the expensive gear? Only you know what sounds good to you.
My wife and I had a chance to audition a system costing in the $250,000 range. While it was playing, she leaned over to me and said "Those sound better than your speakers. But not that much better." I have $120 each in my DIY speakers and about $600 in my subs.
 

ArmSC

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Robert_J said:
My wife and I had a chance to audition a system costing in the $250,000 range. While it was playing, she leaned over to me and said "Those sound better than your speakers. But not that much better." I have $120 each in my DIY speakers and about $600 in my subs.
That's impressive that you have a system that can keep up with something that expensive for pennies on the dollar. The DIY route is awesome...I wish I had more space and time to do that.
 

Robert_J

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ArmSC said:
That's impressive that you have a system that can keep up with something that expensive for pennies on the dollar. The DIY route is awesome...I wish I had more space and time to do that.
Pick a kit and build it on your kitchen table. DIY Sound Group has assemble it yourself kits that takes the guesswork out of everything. You can buy the components, add the front baffle from them so you don't have to do any routing and buy the rest of the box so there is no woodworking at all. Finish the box with spray paint, build the crossover from the plans in the kit and install the speakers. Painting will take the longest time.
 

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