Decided to go ported, and more questions.... (1 Viewer)

[Dustin B]

Each port should be 19.5" long.

The MDF usually goes for a little over $30CDN per 4x8 sheet. You should be able to find 4" PVC pipe at the same place you buy the MDF. Should be sold by the foot and be pretty cheap. And the rest of the little things do add up pretty quickly though. Are you building the SBB4 box plan, or are you doing a sonotube? Either way I don't think $85CDN will quite enough to get everything you need to build the enclosure.

 

[Justin Ward]

I am building the SBB4. I just sat down with my dad and we were trying to figure out how much MDF we needed. We arranged all the sides around a 4 x 8 foot pice and we were SO close it wasn't funny. But it looks like we may need to buy another sheet. My dad said that a high density particle board that hey sell at Central Supplies is actually one inch longer in both lenght and width which would make the fit perfect. Is particle board a good choice or should I simply buy another sheet of MDF? As long as I can buy the MDF and PVC I will be happy until next paycheck when I order my Tempest.

 

[Dustin B]

I wouldn't recommend partical board. Stick with the MDF. It's the cheapest stuff recommended for sub enclosures. The alternatives are void free plywoods (much more expensive). They should also sell half sheets of MDF. $85 should easily buy a sheet and half of MDF and 4' of 4" PVC pipe.

 

[Justin Ward]

Excellent. I did some more figuring and I can fit the cuts into one sheet of MDF(forgot to consider those big chunks being cut from the braces could be used for other cuts). Now, that I have the MDF and PVC under control I guess I will look for terminal cups. My dad is a handyman so we have plenty of screws, t-nuts, silicon etc... around the garage.

Will I have trouble finding terminal cups?

Dustin, I must say that I greatly appreciate all your answers and the time you take to write them. Thank you so much for helping my first DIY project move from the planning to execution stage.

 

[Dustin B]

Not a problem, besides I type pretty fast
Parts Express has piles of options you can order. You could also try a local car audio place. They might have something appropriate. Just don't buy any clip ones, make sure they are actual binding posts.

 

[Dave Poehlman]

FYI, be sure to get the heavier-duty PVC. 1/4" thick. (your cutout ends up being 4 1/2") It's much more rigid.

 

[Justin Ward]

Almost ready to get started guys, couple more questions.

Dustin, I noticed in one of your earlier posts you mentioned the damping factor of my minisystem being poor, what does that mean?

Would it be better to design a passive model with say an 80-100hz crossover and run it through my receiver instead? If so, is it expensive or difficult to buy a pre-assembled(or very easy to assemble)100 or 80hz crossover that could be used with my sub to go to the main speakers?

My main speakers are Titans and they have great bass for their size, so I am sure they would have no trouble with 80hz and a little lower.


My room is quite small so I don't need a great deal of power.

 

[Dustin B]

I wouldn't try and build a crossover and have you receiver run it. The minisystem should do fine until you can afford a decent plate or pro amp.

I don't know how to technically describe this one. But my understanding is up to a point, a higher damping factor means tighter control over the amps output frequency response, especially in the bass departement.

 

[Justin Ward]

Thanks for that.

Now, is it ok for me and my dad to start builiding the enclosure? Since I am using 4 inch PVC do I just change the size of the port cutouts to 4 inch diamter? Or is PVC measured on the inside width(which means it would actually be bigger)?

 

[Dustin B]

I'd get the PVC and measure it before I started cutting. And I'd mount it like Patrick and I did (ledge system).