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I need a 20' run of component cable (1 Viewer)

Ron-P

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Ron
What is good and inexpensive? Or, what can I use as an alternative?


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Ron-P

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Thanks Lee, under $100 is good.

Let me ask this, can I just use three runs of Radio Shack coax, RG-6 cable for the component runs?


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Ron-P

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Thank you Marvin, just as I thought. I just wanted to double check.


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Chu Gai

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just make sure it's a copper center, either stranded or solid Ron and you'll be fine. HD also has stuff.
 

Bob McElfresh

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Uhhh guys. I have to drag out the soap-box for this one.

Terms like RG6 and RG59 reflect the SIZE of a cable more than what signals it was designed to handle. The RG6 stuff you buy at the hardware store/Radio Shack is likely designed to handle analog CATV signals, and digital Sat signals. Video, and HD Video falls somewhere between. So unless you get a Mfg part number and look up the frequency response, it's a gamble if the outdoor-grade RG6 coax will do as good a job as bulk Canare/Belden.

Here is how to judge:

Take the max frequency you intend to send (use 35 Mhz for 1080 HD video) and muliply it by 4. This gives us 140 Mhz.

Look at the signal vs frequency data for the coax and make sure the coax has NO MORE than 3 db drop at 140 Mhz. (3db is 50% signal loss). If the coax can do that, it's acceptible for HD video.

The next part is of course the RCA plug. Chu will tell you that NO RCA plug is truly 75 ohms, but the Canare plugs come closer than generic 35-80 ohm RCA's from the Shack.

In truth, the custom cable sites are the best way to go. The right coax, the right RCA plugs, and the tools/skills to put them both together.
 

Chu Gai

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I can certainly appreciate buying a cable or various items strictly on getting the 'best' technical specifications but if Ron's got a modicum of assembly skills, and I suspect he does, he'll have no trouble whatsoever putting together completely serviceable cables.

CATV cable is frequently copper over steel and that's for 2 reasons:
1) cheap
2) skin effect actually comes into play and the signal's running on the copper.

Virtually any cable out there that's got a copper center conductor, be it stranded or solid, RG59 or RG6, is going to be complete overkill for passing DVD. Especially for the lengths most of us are going to use, and most certainly 20 feet.

The simple reason why the 'impedance' of the connector doesn't matter is that it's length is too short compared to the wavelength of the signal that's being passed. Now that doesn't mean you shouldn't use or recommend Canare. It's a reasonably priced, mass produced, well-made connector from a reputable company. On the other hand, there's much to be said for locking RCA's too.

I really think you'd be hard-pressed to find a poorly designed cable that couldn't meet the requirements for passing DVD signals over reasonable lengths. 3.0, 2.2, 1.4 gHz...like Bill said, 'much ado about nothing'. Keep your connections clean, don't kink your cable, and be a little gentle taking them off and on and they'll last for a long time. If you screw up the connections, a little snip and a new termination and you're back on the track.

BTW, I like the bundled Beldens that are out there...nice looking, flexible, and convenient.
 

Ron-P

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Thanks for all the great info guys.

I found these over at Parts Express Acoustic Reserch component cables, 25' for $80. I've got so much reconstruction to do in the Driftwood after adding the front projector, I don't want to add another DIY cable project to the list so I might just order these up.


Peace Out~:D
 

Chu Gai

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Looks like nice flexible stuff that won't rip your RCA's out or put enough torque on the components that you'll actually need to put sandbags on them.
 

Marvin

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In that case, I'd echo Lee's recommendation of Blue Jeans. They're very quick; you'd probably receive it within a couple of days. But I'm sure the AR cables would be fine too.
 

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