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If you're using this equipment for mostly or entirely HT, focus your money on the Center channel, sub and receiver. Probably in that order, but it depends on what you think of as the weakest link in your system now.

Robert, they are the better of the two classes of amps B&K sells. The REF2002 is a 2 x 200 watt amp while the REF2001 is a 200 watt monoblock. The thing is, the REF2001 (monoblock) has a great deal more current than the REF2002...

1. AVR3805 w/ 2 REF2002s biamping the speakers or 2. AVR3805 w, 2 REF2001s not biamping? I'm really not sure about this. The 2001 has a ton of current, but would the 2002s current be more than enough when biamping? please don't suggest 4 2001s... I don't even want to consider...

1. AVR3805 w/ 2 REF2002s biamping the speakers or 2. AVR3805 w, 2 REF2001s not biamping? I'm really not sure about this. The 2001 has a ton of current, but would the 2002s current be more than enough when biamping? please don't suggest 4 2001s... I don't even want to consider...

My vote would be for the Denon, even with the added expense. As for the Yamaha, you really should be looking at the RXV2400 in the price ranges you're going for. You really can't go wrong with either

I agree with Dean_S. you could also get a speaker selector with volume control built into it so you don't have to cut holes for the niles volume controls

I used to sell these and spent a long time looking at both. I have a preference, the sony, but several other guys liked the DLP better... It really does come down to personal preference. All you can really do is try to watch HD, SD and DVD material from your normal viewing distance at home and...

3805 and speakers. Definitely the most bang for the buck in this situation...

The nickel test relates to cabinet vibration. The Descent won't vibrate enough to tip a nickel over when placed on it's side on top of the sub. This speaks a lot to the sub/cabinet engineering. With that said, would you notice a difference between the two other than the nickel?.... I'm not sure.

I've used Prontos and MX remotes pretty extensively. I would take an MX over any pronto. Much better software (where applicable) and you can't beat hard buttons. In my opinion, the MX 500 is the best $100 or so you can spend on your system

You may be able to get a velodyne VX10GY for around that price. I've seen it at ridiculous prices considering the $299 MSRP

I would go with the REF50. You can't beat the true upgradability....

Definitely take a look at the VX10GY from velodyne.

for $300 new, i haven't heard anything better than the velodyne VX10GY. You may want to check it out.

Check out the Yamaha RXV-1400 and 2400. Both have the YPAO feature which automatically calibrates. They also have comp. video upconversion. Pretty good units. around $800 and $1k list...

I can tell a substantial difference in sounds when i take the grills off my rf3s. I'm not sure which i prefer better acoustically, but the copper colored cones look pretty sweet without the grills...

From what i understand from a dealer/friend of mine is that only the synergy line will be available at best buy.

currently, i've got RF3s and an HK 500. I love the combination. HKs are definitely a "smoother" sound than yamaha or Denon. I think they match perfectly with klipsch speakers and balance each other out very nicely.

apparently the latest Bond movie made almost $100 million in endorsements and product placement. i'm also reminded in the clear pepsi one ad in the thomas crown affair

thanks, i have a feeling i won't forget that anytime soon after this!

AND THE WINNER IS.... DAVID LAWSON!!!!!! Thank you so much. I had the burner set to master, but on the middle connection. i had this posted on four BBs in order to figure it out. This totally reaffirms my faith in these bulleting boards... thank you everyone now i'm off to burn...

ok, reinstalling nero didn't work. i tried updating the firmware from lite-on, but when i tried, it said it couldn't find my drive. it say it's for LTR-52246S and that my detected drives are: 0-0-0 D: LYTU-_NOLTR=52246S 0 0 06SOS and my regular cd rom it seems as though the problem...

thanks a lot, i'll try that

ok, no good. nero still only sees the image recorder, not the burner The cd rom and burner are both on the secondary IDE. The cd rom is the slave, and the burner is the master. the cd rom is the end termination of teh IDE cable, and the burner is the one on the middle (i'm not sure if...

ok, thanks a lot, i just switched it, i'm going to reboot now and see if it worked... back in a few...

what's PIO mode? i'm assuming the configuration i mentioned was ok?

Ok, i know i installed it right becasue it's showing up fine, and i can use the on-screen controls to eject the disc etc.. BUT, 1. when i try to play a music cd in it, it open windows media player, but just skips, no songs will play 2. When i open nero i only get the option of the...

If it were me, Klipsch, hands down. you could get the 4.1 system on their website for that much. (i believe they still have some discounted systems)

for my new comp i have the option to upgrade from a maxtor ATA-133 7200 RPM Hard Drive to a western digital with 20 more gig (80), the same speed, but with an 8mb cache buffer for $33. is that worth it?

it's available from J and R for only $100 with the games! that's a very good deal. i'd loke to give it a try. when I get my new comp in the next month or two i think i'll pick one up. if you consider the fact that the games are worth $50 anyway, it's really not too bad. the wow factor alone...