Recent content by RodN

Russel, nice theatre. Fred. If its constructed properly you don't need legs that wide/large. Think of the physics. There should be minimal lateral pressure on them. All the pressure is vertical. Do you think that several hundred kilos could squash 1 1/2" dowel vertically? Now your sub won't...

Joe if they were true IB that would be enough. If you are thinking of sealing or porting them in a confined space then it's nowhere near it.

Those holes are a great idea! Wish I had of though of that when I built mine. About your shelves, in Home Theatre, can I suggest that "size DOES matter" ? :wink:

Hi Michael, Thicker is better if you ask me, good move :) I used 2 18mm sheets laminated making 36mm (almost 1.5 inches thick) per shelf - why the hell not, MDF is cheap enough. Because it's solid there is no chance of vibration from things like your HTPC to work their way up to things...

You are right Kyle you don't need to screw. The bond with MDF glue will break the MDF before the glue join as it basically soaks into the MDF, and, as it's harder, becomes tougher than just solid MDF. Screws might help keep a job square if the clamping is not done properly but that's about it...

Try http://www.hdmi.org/

Why not just follow the low Q design from the whitepapers then mount one sub on top of the other?

Greg, Dunno why you would want to go that close to the tempest excursion limits. Isn't the question flat response to around 20Hz without reaching that limit? Your graph would suggest you are achieving this. Joe L, Are you sure there's any rumble filter in that amp? I'm using the 250W amp...

I have a Sanyo Z2 which has lens shift and can say that it works beautifully with no degradation in picture quality. It isn't just 'advanced keystoning' so you'll be able to adjust your screen to suit your requirements although I'm not sure if the sharp will let you do this most 'good' digital...

If I could just support what Graham has said. If woodworking is not an issue for you then correct engineering/design of the electrical components is (i.e not knowing 'what this frequency stuff is') would mean that a 'pure kit' (just instructions) would solve this problem. This would lead me to...

Hi Robert, The shelves are 18mm*2 making for a 36mm thick shelf. I went for this as for cd/dvd playback a stable platform makes for cleaner sound. I have not experienced 'cleaner sound' as that would take too much to setup and test but I am trusting the experts. This is why you see audiophile...

I find my behringer BFD display to be a distraction. I use old x-rays to put over the display to really darken it up. It really depends on the equipment, I removed all of the lights connections on my HTPC because of the same thing. The amp is fine, all depends on your equipment. Dark glass might...

Thanks for that! It's a shame you can't see it IRL, I really surprised myself, looked so much better than I'd hoped for. You can't see the washers because I painted them black. I used tap washers for the rubber component. They're a nice stiff rubber and, hopefully because they're tap...

Hi Jarret, I just finished my Flexy-rack: I used laminated mdf (18*2) for 36mm thick shelves. The top is pine stained with rose mahogany. I have a build diary here if you're interested.

Ken, Yes, on my WWW link :) (Top of each post) It has gone further than this, I'm putting it together tomorrow after one more coat of clear. By the end I was down to 1200grit wet sands. You'll notice I used a roller with black enamel paint for a base coat. Worked ok but if I had my time...