Russel, nice theatre. Fred. If its constructed properly you don't need legs that wide/large. Think of the physics. There should be minimal lateral pressure on them. All the pressure is vertical. Do you think that several hundred kilos could squash 1 1/2" dowel vertically? Now your sub won't...
Those holes are a great idea! Wish I had of though of that when I built mine. About your shelves, in Home Theatre, can I suggest that "size DOES matter" ? :wink:
Hi Michael, Thicker is better if you ask me, good move :) I used 2 18mm sheets laminated making 36mm (almost 1.5 inches thick) per shelf - why the hell not, MDF is cheap enough. Because it's solid there is no chance of vibration from things like your HTPC to work their way up to things...
You are right Kyle you don't need to screw. The bond with MDF glue will break the MDF before the glue join as it basically soaks into the MDF, and, as it's harder, becomes tougher than just solid MDF. Screws might help keep a job square if the clamping is not done properly but that's about it...
Greg, Dunno why you would want to go that close to the tempest excursion limits. Isn't the question flat response to around 20Hz without reaching that limit? Your graph would suggest you are achieving this. Joe L, Are you sure there's any rumble filter in that amp? I'm using the 250W amp...
I have a Sanyo Z2 which has lens shift and can say that it works beautifully with no degradation in picture quality. It isn't just 'advanced keystoning' so you'll be able to adjust your screen to suit your requirements although I'm not sure if the sharp will let you do this most 'good' digital...
If I could just support what Graham has said. If woodworking is not an issue for you then correct engineering/design of the electrical components is (i.e not knowing 'what this frequency stuff is') would mean that a 'pure kit' (just instructions) would solve this problem. This would lead me to...
Hi Robert, The shelves are 18mm*2 making for a 36mm thick shelf. I went for this as for cd/dvd playback a stable platform makes for cleaner sound. I have not experienced 'cleaner sound' as that would take too much to setup and test but I am trusting the experts. This is why you see audiophile...
I find my behringer BFD display to be a distraction. I use old x-rays to put over the display to really darken it up. It really depends on the equipment, I removed all of the lights connections on my HTPC because of the same thing. The amp is fine, all depends on your equipment. Dark glass might...
Thanks for that! It's a shame you can't see it IRL, I really surprised myself, looked so much better than I'd hoped for. You can't see the washers because I painted them black. I used tap washers for the rubber component. They're a nice stiff rubber and, hopefully because they're tap...
Hi Jarret, I just finished my Flexy-rack: I used laminated mdf (18*2) for 36mm thick shelves. The top is pine stained with rose mahogany. I have a build diary here if you're interested.
Ken, Yes, on my WWW link :) (Top of each post) It has gone further than this, I'm putting it together tomorrow after one more coat of clear. By the end I was down to 1200grit wet sands. You'll notice I used a roller with black enamel paint for a base coat. Worked ok but if I had my time...
I'm in the process of doing my flexy. By hand, definitely by hand. Because the palm sanders are orbital they are ok for a quick rough sand down but if you want a really smooth flat surface you just cant beat by hand. If there is even the remotest of chances of the sand paper getting clogged with...
I did my own too, just modified the straight jig the router comes with so I could use some thread for the router fixing. Works like a charm! Although the jasper would be nice for consistent measurements.
Curt, Wow, fantastic work, that design is interesting, the picture with the sand in it really raised my eyebrows! And so you should be proud of yourself, they look loads better than anything you'll see in a shop! They'll probably improve over the next 100 odd hours of breakin time too. So...
Ok so it's determined that standing waves are not an issue for subs - so why then does more stuffing in a sealed sub effectively increase an enclosures Q? I thought it was because they broke up standing waves?
To define whether you think horizontal placement is desirable just try what you have horizontally. SIt in your listening position and get someone to sit the speakers you have horizontal, then vertical. You'll be surprised at the difference in sound and it might change your priorities. For me...
Wayne, This makes a lot of sense. You've answered questions I didn't even know I had, thank you very much for the detailed response. As I was considering Kit amplification which produces oustanding results I don't think I'll pursue the pro-amp route, thanks again! Rod
Hi, I was wondering what peoples thoughts were on the difference in quality between professional audio gear (like Crown amps, Alesis etc vs 'regular' consumer audio stuff (like Marantz, Rotel etc). There seems to be a lot of high wattage amps on Ebay and elsewhere from the Pro Audio side...
Just strip it back and away you go (strip the shielding at the same level as the insulation. I had tried running the shielding to amplifier ground but found that made no difference, the shielding was acting as an EMF buffer anyway. Solid core vs stranded is an argument for another thread I...
That's cool, yeah it's an AVA 250 from Adire Audio, nice amp. I particularly liked the crossover bypass switch, the lack of any sort of boosting in the frequency range and the phase dial (rather than a switch). Many of the more budget amps don't offer these things.
Thanks people! It really was fun to build - and yes, they do bridge the gap between furniture and musical devices, don't all good speakers do that? (B&W nautilus come to mind)...