Jump to content



Sign up for a free account to remove the pop-up ads

Signing up for an account is fast and free. As a member you can join in the conversation, enter contests and remove the pop-up ads that guests get. Click here to create your free account.


Photo
- - - - -

diy Shiva sub


  • You cannot start a new topic
  • Please log in to reply
19 replies to this topic

#1 of 20 OFFLINE   fred garvin

fred garvin

    Agent



  • 38 posts
  • Join Date: May 07 2004

Posted September 16 2004 - 04:29 AM

i'm putting together a cabinet (specifically the 142.5L vented Shiva Box. I bought the MDF, and will be in the process of cutting all the pieces i need (this should not be a problem). but what is the best way to put it together. should the boards be glued, screwed, both? looking for some insight as to the best way to go about this. thanx in advance for your help.

#2 of 20 OFFLINE   Stephen Hopkins

Stephen Hopkins

    Screenwriter



  • 2,598 posts
  • Join Date: Jul 19 2002

Posted September 16 2004 - 08:13 AM

I'm a big fan of glue, clamps, and brad-nails. I usually lay down a bead of clue, clamp the pieces together, then put a brad about every 2".

#3 of 20 OFFLINE   Lee Carbray

Lee Carbray

    Second Unit



  • 308 posts
  • Join Date: Oct 23 2002

Posted September 16 2004 - 08:24 AM

I used glue and screws for mine without any problems. Make sure to drill a pilot hole as not to split the MDF though. They say you can use just glue and clamps and be fine but i did not have any clams and screws are cheaper. Also consider how you are going to finish the box. If you plan on rounding over the corners the screws might be in the way. You can see my finished result below.
"You can't be a real country unless you have a beer and an airline. It helps if you have some kind of a football team, or some nuclear weapons, but at the very least you need a beer." Frank Zappa

Dealer listing for Toronto & Area

My Shiva

#4 of 20 OFFLINE   fred garvin

fred garvin

    Agent



  • 38 posts
  • Join Date: May 07 2004

Posted September 16 2004 - 01:41 PM

so is it safe to say that if i go with glue and screws, clamps will not be nessecary? or should i clamp anyway......if these questions sound stupid, i apologizePosted Image

#5 of 20 OFFLINE   Bryan Michael

Bryan Michael

    Supporting Actor



  • 564 posts
  • Join Date: Mar 02 2002

Posted September 16 2004 - 02:56 PM

i used clamps to get the pieceses setup and a tight fit then screwed togher. but you dont want to clamp to tight or you will squeze out all the glue. also when putting pannels togher but togher rub around the screw so you get even coverage of glew.
there are olny 2 types of people in the world the irish and thoes who want to be irish

#6 of 20 OFFLINE   Adam.Heckman

Adam.Heckman

    Second Unit



  • 322 posts
  • Join Date: Dec 09 2003

Posted September 16 2004 - 11:20 PM

Another echo here... I just made a 15" tempest mid-q sealed. I glued w/ claps, then drilled pilot holes that were 80% the shaft diameter of the screws I used. This is key. The MDF wanted to split otherwise. 5 screws per side. The thing is AMAZINGLY solid. I also caulked the inside of the joints when the glue dried.

#7 of 20 OFFLINE   Kyle Richardson

Kyle Richardson

    Screenwriter



  • 1,076 posts
  • Join Date: Jan 01 1998

Posted September 17 2004 - 12:25 AM

The screws are not needed but use them if it will bring peace of mind. If you do use screws, do as others have said and pre-drill but also use a countersink bit so the screws will sit flush. If you don't, the MDF tends to mushroom around the head as it sinks flush and makes your finishing job a lot tougher because then you need to sand them all down flush again.
Kyle Richardson
Acoustic Visions

AOL Instant Messenger Name: kyler70
MSN IM: acousticvisions@hotmail.com

#8 of 20 OFFLINE   RodN

RodN

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 58 posts
  • Join Date: May 09 2004

Posted September 17 2004 - 12:37 AM

You are right Kyle you don't need to screw. The bond with MDF glue will break the MDF before the glue join as it basically soaks into the MDF, and, as it's harder, becomes tougher than just solid MDF. Screws might help keep a job square if the clamping is not done properly but that's about it as screw countersinks are a pain in the ass to hide/cover.

#9 of 20 OFFLINE   Chris Brock

Chris Brock

    Second Unit



  • 328 posts
  • Join Date: Sep 13 2003

Posted September 17 2004 - 12:40 AM

I agree, if the pieces are cut out right and you properly assemble and clamp the box and allow the glue to dry then screws serve no purpose. They actually make it harder because of the extra work in preparing the surface for finishing.

#10 of 20 OFFLINE   fred garvin

fred garvin

    Agent



  • 38 posts
  • Join Date: May 07 2004

Posted September 17 2004 - 02:25 AM

this is some huge help, if nothing else, it gives me some directions. this is my first endeavor into building a sub cabinet (or any cabinet for that matter) so looks will not be paramount, but function is. i'm leaning toward using screws, will use pilot holes as many here suggested. will keep you guys posted. thanx again for the help.

#11 of 20 OFFLINE   Patrick Sun

Patrick Sun

    Studio Mogul



  • 38,169 posts
  • Join Date: Jun 30 1999

Posted September 17 2004 - 04:39 AM

I used the ol' "glue and clamp" method to construct this subwoofer for a local friend. (I included the link because it has construction photos for a MDF box-type sub.
"Jee-sus, it's like Iwo Jima out there" - Roger Sterling on "Mad Men"
Patcave | 2006 Films | 2007 Films | Flickr | Comic-Con 2012 | Dragon*Con 2012

#12 of 20 OFFLINE   Cam McFarland

Cam McFarland

    Supporting Actor



  • 699 posts
  • Join Date: Feb 06 2004

Posted September 17 2004 - 08:25 AM

No screws in my AA Tempest.....just glue & clamps.

#13 of 20 OFFLINE   MattD

MattD

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 166 posts
  • Join Date: Feb 29 2000

Posted September 17 2004 - 10:07 AM

Glue and Clamps were used to build this Sub

#14 of 20 OFFLINE   Jack Gilvey

Jack Gilvey

    Producer



  • 4,952 posts
  • Join Date: Mar 13 1999

Posted September 18 2004 - 02:00 AM

Same here...just glue and clamps.

Posted Image

Posted Image
SVS Customer Service
http://www.svsound.com
sales@svsound.com
techsupport@svsound.com

#15 of 20 OFFLINE   Dean-P

Dean-P

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 134 posts
  • Join Date: May 18 2003

Posted September 18 2004 - 02:05 AM

If you use screws(which I recommend due to cost of buying all those clamps)use drywall screws about 1 1/2" long. Drill a pilot hole using 1/16". I've used both, wood and drywall, and the drywall didn't break out the mdf. I'm just finishing up my 95L vented shiva and I used the drywall with lots of glue and some clamps just to hold the panels until I got the screws in.
My 2 cents...Posted Image
Yamaha RX-V730(Pre/Pro)
Rotel RB-956AX (L/C/R)
LG DV7832NXC
Athena AS-B2s (fronts & rears)
Athena AS-C1JVC AV32D20195L Vented Shiva

#16 of 20 OFFLINE   JohnA

JohnA

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 102 posts
  • Join Date: Oct 25 1999

Posted September 18 2004 - 10:14 AM

I used glue and clamps on my sealed DIY Maelstrom subwoofer. Easy and strong. I was told by a cabinet maker that the glue joint is stronger than the MDF (or mechanical fastening). I didn't believe this and was told to do a simple test. Glue up two pieces of MDF into an "L" shape (using clamps). Let it dry overnight. Place one end in a vice and hit the other end with a hammer. Where does it break? When I did this, the MDF fractured and the glue joint survived. I am no expert, but the glue and clamping worked great for me. No issues and no problems overclamping and squeezing out too much glue. Purchasing 6-8 clamps will cost about $150 to $200. I bought six long ones and two shorter ones. These where "Quick-Grip Bar Clamps" -JA
Thrilled to be actively back into hometheater after a few years absence.

#17 of 20 OFFLINE   minhG

minhG

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 82 posts
  • Join Date: May 06 2004

Posted September 18 2004 - 12:48 PM

wow $150-$200 for clamps? yikes! those must be nice clamps! if you have a harbor freight nearby you can spend a lot less, probably not as nice but ask yourself how many times you'll need the clamps! i did the screw method because i didn't want to buy anymore clamps, if you have 2-3 that are wide enough, that's enough to hold things in place while you screw it together.

#18 of 20 OFFLINE   Dave Poehlman

Dave Poehlman

    Producer



  • 3,817 posts
  • Join Date: Mar 08 2000

Posted September 18 2004 - 01:18 PM

Posted Image
Glued and screwed.

As others stated, I prefer screws to clamping. The box goes together quicker.

Definitely pre-drill and countersink.

#19 of 20 OFFLINE   JohnA

JohnA

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 102 posts
  • Join Date: Oct 25 1999

Posted September 18 2004 - 02:03 PM

Price of clamps depends on the style, length and quantity. The quick-grip clamps I used where 36" long and can be picked up at Home Depot for around $28 each. I never had a need for them prior to building the enclosure, but have since used then many times. One of those things that you will always use if you have it, not miss it if you don't -JA
Thrilled to be actively back into hometheater after a few years absence.

#20 of 20 OFFLINE   Christpher_S

Christpher_S

    Stunt Coordinator



  • 54 posts
  • Join Date: Apr 25 2004

Posted September 19 2004 - 08:24 AM

If you can borrow one from someone, strongly consider using a plate (biscuit) joiner. Can't be beat, in my opinion, when working with MDF. Great for holding parts in alignment while you apply clamps. With screws, you have to hold everything in alignment while you drill pilot holes, which I find to be a bit of a pain. I used biscuits on my sealed Shiva a month ago and on a baffle, for an IB sub, I built this weekend. Probably too expensive if you will only use it once, but a very nice tool to have for jobs like this. -Chris




0 user(s) are reading this topic

0 members, 0 guests, 0 anonymous users